Thread: TOS shaper

I just came across this thread. Rather than use the old piece you could have the tractor guy build it up with braze the use your lathe to re cut it like he has done. The tooling would be easy to make to shape off the other teeth.
Broken gear teeth: best build-up method? - Practical Machinist - Largest Manufacturing Technology Forum on the Web

Dave

Thanks Dave, there's some good ideas in that PM thread about gear repairs. Because half the old tooth is still there it will take some of the load as well as give me a good guide to file a peg to shape.

Thanks also Greg, Jordan & Pipeclay for ideas about those pesky plate pins. I have a few more things to try.

With the block I may end up just running it as you suggest Dave, but I'm interested in exploring the idea of a repair a bit more first. I'm stuck inside a fair bit and it gives me something to think about.

Pipeclay, I want to make sure I understand you. You wrote:

In regards to your repair of the Slideing block I would steer clear of trying to wrap something around it,you would be better off machining as much off the damaged face as needed and then screwing a piece of Brass/Bronze onto the machined face,and then machine back to size,and then re-cut the oil grooves.

So I should screw a plate onto the face of the block. The screws would have to be countersunk right? So to get enough clearance the plate would have to be at least 3 or 4 mm thick? And what can I do about the surface of the yoke?

I'm not sure if I was clear, but my idea was to plate the long surface of the yoke, mainly because I can't machine it. There's no way to screw into the face, that's why I said to fix from the sides.

Bryan, in case you didnt work it out, the nine letter word is EVENTUATE

and yesterdays was malignant..lol

Bryan, How long is the face of the yoke you would like to machine if you could?
Stuart

I was just having another look at your sliding block and I think you would get away with running it as is with some thick grease. The grease would sit it all those pockets created by the galling which would help lubricate even more.

My idea to fix it properly would be to clean up the arm using a end mill (using the side) doing both sides at once would make sure everything was parallel. A block of cast iron to replace that one would cost around $50-$70 depending where you bought it from. The bronze bush itself might work out to be an off the shelf item after you machine down the pin.
You could add plates to the sides but I think it would be easier to just make a new block. The sides of the block could be cleaned up and brought down to size on the lathe in a 4 jaw chuck.
I know you don't have a mill but if you decide to go this way, you might be able to find someone local or a member here might be able to help you out with it. If you lived closer I would do it for you.

Dave

I was refering to the sliding block only,yes it would need to be retained with Countersunk Screws.

Originally Posted by Dave J

A block of cast iron to replace that one would cost around $50-$70 depending where you bought it from.
Dave

Crikey, how big is that block?
Should we be thinking of melting down old car engines?

Jordan

Originally Posted by nadroj

Crikey, how big is that block?
Should we be thinking of melting down old car engines?

Jordan

Hi Jordan
I was just guessing a price, but you have to remember it's not a little bench top model.
Not sure on the size of his, but mine is around 75 x 50 x 120mm long.
I got a quote off bohler for another job, a piece of hollow cast 100 outer 85 inner x 300mm long was $110.
Can you get cast at better prices? If so I would be interested.

Dave

Dave Hollow Cast Bar is allways dearer than Solid
.
If you are after a piece like that I can work a price out for you,but it will be solid,I have a few different sizes in stock.

Thanks for that Pipe Clay.
I am not after a piece at the moment, but would like to get better prices than Bohler, do you know of any?

Bryan
Pipe clays offer is something to keep in mind if you do replace it.


Dave

I mainly deal with the steel store.

Eskimo, thanks but I'm not the puzzler. That paper could be years old for all I know. Glad you're having fun with it though. (I do confess to occasional patches of crossword frenzy.)

Stuart, the face in question is about 380mm. If you're thinking of volunteering, postage would hurt. It's got to be 20 or 30 kg. The local machinist has a shaper, I might have a quiet word.

Dave, I'm not convinced an endmill is the tool for the job. Or maybe it's just that I don't have a proper mill or know how to use one. I hadn't considered replacing the block but I'll pop that idea in the 'options' box too. I haven't measured it but the size you said sounds about right.

Today I got the whole apron/knee/front end gubbins pulled off. No real dramas there. One stripped thread (not guilty), one slightly bent lead screw. Probably the same crash that broke the gear. Still turns smoothly so I'm leaving it be.

Tried to remove the gearbox but got stymied by a stuck dowel. Great ones for dowelling, these Czechs. If you're ever pulling a TOS apart keep an eye out for small female threads of uncertain purpose. They're probably dowels. They can be removed with a simple puller, eg a screw and a sleeve (socket). A slide hammer works well too, and can be improvised from a drawbar. I've tried both methods on this gearbox one but I'm getting nowhere. So I've left it to have a good look at itself.

I've also been scraping paint. The blue comes off very easily. Under that is a coat of machinery grey, and under that pale green. A lot of it is intact too. I was assuming this was the original colour, since the only other photos I can find of TOS shapers are also pale green. However, there are traces of a darker green under that. Could even be olive drab. Those other shapers both look like later models, with dovetail ways and bevel-geared feed shafts. Maybe this one got updated / civilianised? So anyway I think it's going to be green but haven't decided which one.

Originally Posted by Bryan

What's the go with those little blind rivets that hold nameplates on? ".....

I know them as 'Drive Screws' They are like nails for metal. I think blackwoods sell them.
I have had luck carefully prising them out.
Sterob

Originally Posted by Bryan

Stuart, the face in question is about 380mm. If you're thinking of volunteering, postage would hurt. It's got to be 20 or 30 kg. The local machinist has a shaper, I might have a quiet word.

No Bryan I wasn't and as I'm in another state so wont be on the other end of the piece of wood, I'm going to suggest this

Clamp a piece of wood to the ram and with a mate machine it by hand. I figure if its good enough to true the table that way, why couldnt you machine the yoke that way and then make an oversized sliding block.

What do you think guys?

Stuart

(page 23 Number 30)
http://www.neme-s.org/Shaper%20Books...per%20Book.pdf