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Thread: TOS shaper
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19th December 2010, 01:14 AM #46Dave J Guest
Hi Bryan,
You have some good advice above from the other guys.
I would give it a quick lick of paint while your their if you have the time.
The easiest way to go about the name plates is to mask them up with a few layers of tape while sanding, then remask them when painting.
If you want to get the pins out but cant, you can always destroy them to get the name plate off, once it's off you can then drill them out or make new holes close by and tap them for some small slot head machine screws so it looks original.
I know what you mean about getting away and being a restoration, I would just clean up the sliding block and arm and run it as is for now. Once you have the shaper running, latter on you can make a temporary one out of steel or something (well greased) while you fix the original one up.
For the pins I haven't done them myself but will research it for you. They wouldn't need to be too hard because the original teeth are only cast and are not getting much pressure on them with having half of the original teeth still their. I wouldn't use a roll pin as they are hollow, something solid would be better like a dowel pin.
Thinking about it, I think you could get away with 1 or a couple of high tensile bolts of the right size, threaded into the gear with some Locktite on it. Just cut off enough thread so when it's screwed in no thread can be seen and cut off the shank to suit the height after it's in, then file/ grind to shape.
It's hard to tell sizes with pictures, but you might get away with one bolt the width of the tooth root so you can file it to be the same profile.
As to how it happened, I would say someone has ran the saddle into an end or maybe something like the vise.
Dave
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19th December 2010 01:14 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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19th December 2010, 01:25 AM #47Dave J Guest
I just came across this thread. Rather than use the old piece you could have the tractor guy build it up with braze the use your lathe to re cut it like he has done. The tooling would be easy to make to shape off the other teeth.
Broken gear teeth: best build-up method? - Practical Machinist - Largest Manufacturing Technology Forum on the Web
Dave
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19th December 2010, 10:05 AM #48Distracted Member
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Thanks Dave, there's some good ideas in that PM thread about gear repairs. Because half the old tooth is still there it will take some of the load as well as give me a good guide to file a peg to shape.
Thanks also Greg, Jordan & Pipeclay for ideas about those pesky plate pins. I have a few more things to try.
With the block I may end up just running it as you suggest Dave, but I'm interested in exploring the idea of a repair a bit more first. I'm stuck inside a fair bit and it gives me something to think about.
Pipeclay, I want to make sure I understand you. You wrote:
In regards to your repair of the Slideing block I would steer clear of trying to wrap something around it,you would be better off machining as much off the damaged face as needed and then screwing a piece of Brass/Bronze onto the machined face,and then machine back to size,and then re-cut the oil grooves.
I'm not sure if I was clear, but my idea was to plate the long surface of the yoke, mainly because I can't machine it. There's no way to screw into the face, that's why I said to fix from the sides.
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19th December 2010, 10:21 AM #49GOLD MEMBER
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Bryan, in case you didnt work it out, the nine letter word is EVENTUATE
and yesterdays was malignant..lol
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19th December 2010, 11:17 AM #50GOLD MEMBER
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Bryan, How long is the face of the yoke you would like to machine if you could?
Stuart
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19th December 2010, 01:25 PM #51Dave J Guest
I was just having another look at your sliding block and I think you would get away with running it as is with some thick grease. The grease would sit it all those pockets created by the galling which would help lubricate even more.
My idea to fix it properly would be to clean up the arm using a end mill (using the side) doing both sides at once would make sure everything was parallel. A block of cast iron to replace that one would cost around $50-$70 depending where you bought it from. The bronze bush itself might work out to be an off the shelf item after you machine down the pin.
You could add plates to the sides but I think it would be easier to just make a new block. The sides of the block could be cleaned up and brought down to size on the lathe in a 4 jaw chuck.
I know you don't have a mill but if you decide to go this way, you might be able to find someone local or a member here might be able to help you out with it. If you lived closer I would do it for you.
Dave
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19th December 2010, 02:02 PM #52GOLD MEMBER
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I was refering to the sliding block only,yes it would need to be retained with Countersunk Screws.
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19th December 2010, 02:30 PM #53Mechanical Butcher
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19th December 2010, 02:57 PM #54Dave J Guest
Hi Jordan
I was just guessing a price, but you have to remember it's not a little bench top model.
Not sure on the size of his, but mine is around 75 x 50 x 120mm long.
I got a quote off bohler for another job, a piece of hollow cast 100 outer 85 inner x 300mm long was $110.
Can you get cast at better prices? If so I would be interested.
Dave
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19th December 2010, 03:36 PM #55GOLD MEMBER
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Dave Hollow Cast Bar is allways dearer than Solid
.
If you are after a piece like that I can work a price out for you,but it will be solid,I have a few different sizes in stock.
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19th December 2010, 04:20 PM #56Dave J Guest
Thanks for that Pipe Clay.
I am not after a piece at the moment, but would like to get better prices than Bohler, do you know of any?
Bryan
Pipe clays offer is something to keep in mind if you do replace it.
Dave
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19th December 2010, 04:44 PM #57GOLD MEMBER
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I mainly deal with the steel store.
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19th December 2010, 05:49 PM #58Distracted Member
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Eskimo, thanks but I'm not the puzzler. That paper could be years old for all I know. Glad you're having fun with it though. (I do confess to occasional patches of crossword frenzy.)
Stuart, the face in question is about 380mm. If you're thinking of volunteering, postage would hurt. It's got to be 20 or 30 kg. The local machinist has a shaper, I might have a quiet word.
Dave, I'm not convinced an endmill is the tool for the job. Or maybe it's just that I don't have a proper mill or know how to use one. I hadn't considered replacing the block but I'll pop that idea in the 'options' box too. I haven't measured it but the size you said sounds about right.
Today I got the whole apron/knee/front end gubbins pulled off. No real dramas there. One stripped thread (not guilty), one slightly bent lead screw. Probably the same crash that broke the gear. Still turns smoothly so I'm leaving it be.
Tried to remove the gearbox but got stymied by a stuck dowel. Great ones for dowelling, these Czechs. If you're ever pulling a TOS apart keep an eye out for small female threads of uncertain purpose. They're probably dowels. They can be removed with a simple puller, eg a screw and a sleeve (socket). A slide hammer works well too, and can be improvised from a drawbar. I've tried both methods on this gearbox one but I'm getting nowhere. So I've left it to have a good look at itself.
I've also been scraping paint. The blue comes off very easily. Under that is a coat of machinery grey, and under that pale green. A lot of it is intact too. I was assuming this was the original colour, since the only other photos I can find of TOS shapers are also pale green. However, there are traces of a darker green under that. Could even be olive drab. Those other shapers both look like later models, with dovetail ways and bevel-geared feed shafts. Maybe this one got updated / civilianised? So anyway I think it's going to be green but haven't decided which one.
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19th December 2010, 05:59 PM #59SENIOR MEMBER
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19th December 2010, 07:23 PM #60GOLD MEMBER
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No Bryan I wasn't and as I'm in another state so wont be on the other end of the piece of wood, I'm going to suggest this
Clamp a piece of wood to the ram and with a mate machine it by hand. I figure if its good enough to true the table that way, why couldnt you machine the yoke that way and then make an oversized sliding block.
What do you think guys?
Stuart
(page 23 Number 30)
http://www.neme-s.org/Shaper%20Books...per%20Book.pdf
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