Thread: TOS shaper

Originally Posted by nadroj

I've noticed that cast iron stock is expensive, but don't understand why. I thought it's easier to make than steel, but I guess I'm wrong on that. Old usable CI like sash window weights were roughly made and have blowholes, but can still be used for simple items. If a bad blowhole is encountered, just scrap it and try again. I made engine valve guides out of this stuff. The expensive new CI is high quality I suppose, but is there no choice if something more ordinary is wanted? I've been eyeing off some big old machinery castings I come across, with a view to cutting them up into useful chunks. But it's rare to find something that has enough thickness to be really useful.

Jordan

You think the same way I do, I am always looking at old machines and anything cast iron that way. I have always got my eye out for car/truck fly wheels. I have an old ward lathe here and was thinking the ways would make good strait edges for scraping.

My shaper came with a bolt on 300 x 500x 80mm high square box section to mount the motor on and it's about 20mm thick, it is an over kill and sticks out a mile. I am going to use it for a surface plate when I get better at scraping.

You are right about the price, I usually design things to work into what I have laying around the shop. I wouldn't mind just having some cast blocks, round, etc laying around to use, but with the price of it and a lot off other metals makes me buy it only when needed.

Dave

Can anyone explain to me the meaning of the numbers you see stamped into machine tool components? On my lathe the same numbers repeat a lot; on the shaper they're less consistent.

(Stuart, I did see your suggestion and I am thinking about it, thanks.)

Brian I think they are internal model number designations. So castings and forgings belonging to a model or series will carry a common number plus sometimes the discreet part number.

I'm not sure what numbers you mean Bryan. My shaper has a serial number on the main casting that is repeated on the the ram, tool slider and I think the X axis casting. Maybe in a couple of other places, I forget.
Picture?
Stuart

If the parts were match machined or match fitted they should all be stamped the same,normally you would find the critical parts stamp matched,other parts associated with the same component not match stamped would be interchangle through that model machine.

I agree with Pipe Clay's reply, even my Chinese mill is stamped this way.

Dave

Ok thanks guys. Bit hard to check now as I've just crammed everything away in corners to make some room for 'bodywork'. A dismantled shaper takes a lot of space!

Originally Posted by Bryan

A dismantled shaper takes a lot of space!

They do but just wait until you get a mill.

Hi Bryan,
Using the side of the end mill with cast iron leaves an almost ground finish with a light cut and slow feed. Depending on the thickness of the part, you may need to get a long flued end mill to do the job in one go. The travel of a standard knee mill is around 600mm so your 380mm will be no problem for it.
If you decide to go this way I would do the damaged side first and then take a lite cut off the other side while it's in the same setup so they are both accurately parallel.

I know what you mean about the shaper taking up space while it's apart. When I brought mine home in bit's, I had to get it together to be able to move in my shed again.

Dave

Some of you would be aware that TOS was not so much a maker but more an umbrella for a number of manufacturers. The nameplate on my shaper says, next to the TOS logo, "Kovosvit Holoubkov". A bit of searching reveals that the company still exists, now under German ownership, primarily making drilling machines. I sent off an email before Christmas with a picture asking if they might still have any info. I wasn't really expecting a reply. Imagine my delight when I got an email with a stack of scans of a yellowing manual, with instructions and numerous detailed drawings. 20 scans totaling 13.5 Mb. Obviously too much to post here, but I'm happy to make this material available to anyone who asks. I think it's just a dusty irrelevance to the current owners.

I thought I would share the Preface. I was struck by the competence of the English and the gentlemanly tone. Pity some modern exporters can't be bothered respecting their customers' language.

Maybe I'll just add a couple of drawings (if the server is feeling cooperative).

ATM I can only download the last pdf. I guess that will fix itself.
Looks like you need a hole in the floor to lower the table completly!
Its given me some ideas for the table support(if I ever get around to making one).
Thanks

Stuart

They wouldn't open for me ,I had to download, then open them to see them.

The bottom part of my support has been made up out of rough cut plate, welded together at a right angle with a few support.

Dave

The PDFs are loading ok for me. But the server has been well buggy lately. I guess that's why you couldn't get the files Stuart. Hope it gets sorted out soon.

A hole in the floor won't be happening, nor will a 300mm footing. I'll just try it out as is, maybe some shims or wedges to stop any rocking. If anything I'd like to build it up higher. Thinking of bolting it to some big lumps of structural channel. Hardwood sleepers would be cheaper. Did I mention that I hate bending?

Dave next time you've got the camera out could we get a shot of your support? I've read on other forums where people talk about the foot jamming. Someone has added a felt wiper to mine, so I'm guessing that's why.

Thanks Dave, got them now.
If I ever do make the support Dave, it will be rough . My shaper doesn't really have a place on the front face for the support, I don't think. Something across the bottom like Bryans drawing would be much easier to knock up "I think" lol

Bryan I like the idea of a couple of railway sleepers. It would give you "a hole in the floor" and wood on concrete would be less likely to move about. Although mine it just sitting on the floor and has shown no signs of moving. Having seen they sort of concrete they suggest I'm not sure bolting it to my floor would be a good idea anyway. It might make things worse?

How close are you to making swarf?

Stuart