Thread: How can I touch up V blocks?

I saw a pair of 2" SHCS vices at Rays today. I bought a pair of 2.5" from Ozmestore. Coupled with some transfer blocks and smaller angle plates there is not much i have found you cannot set up.

If i had the time i'd love to make some, but it ain't going to happen.

Ew

I'm getting myself and others confused with the step thing so I drew it out
The block has a 2 degree slope on the v with 2 degrees on the block the other way

v block.jpg
So -

1. The block with the high end of the V marked
2. To get the v horizontal, the block needs to rotate 2 degrees down
3. Material is removed from the base to maintain the v being horizontal - that surface is parallel to the top surface. Step is at the low end of the V. I think the confusion is because I'm calling a step the bit left on where others are calling the step the bit removed?
4. Using the modified base, the top of the V is now made parallel with the V
5. Using the parallel top, the block is flipped and the step removed
6. The finished functional block (sides trimmed is optional)

Michael

That's right Michael , I think the confusion may have been because I start at the top. It doesn't really matter I guess, only that's the way it was probably measured in the first place. The "step" I'm taking about is the material left, and would be in the top right hand corner of picture 1.

Same same, no different.

I'm confused but that's just me! I'll have plenty time to re-read this thread tonight. Cheers, Simon

Hi Michael,

You've got it..

It's a good idea to carefully mark the directions on the part, so that you don't reverse it...

Here's Phil's description of the technique, from an earlier thread..

Originally Posted by Machtool

Just to expand. I meant to comment when R.C was knocking up blocks. If you can measure the squarness error, easy way to corect it is to step grind it out. And the accuracy is only dependant on the down feed accuracy of your grinder.

No offence Rich. Rather than hollow cut your blocks, them lap one land down, grind one off and then leave a land.

For the sake of an urgument your error was 1 thou out of square. You have to invision which way the square has to move to inprove it.

28 somthings in this case


I'd take a dust cut to establish wheel to work height. Thermal stabilty and all that. Then take a thou cut from the side that needed reducing,
until you leave a high land. Ie: dont complete the pass, but leave a high land. 3 -4 - 5 mm wide.


Then flip that over.

Tipping it on the as Josh's renderings. Your high land will tip the part over correcting the out of squarness.

Then flip flop & grind off the land and get back to parrallel.

I have trouble descibing it, it takes me seconds when I'm in front of a grinder.

So if grinding the top, as per your diagrams Ray, you'd leave the step on the top right of Michael's first diagram right?

Originally Posted by Pete F

So if grinding the top, as per your diagrams Ray, you'd leave the step on the top right of Michael's first diagram right?

Yes, so that the line HH is parallel to the chuck when the block is flipped. As Phil says, it's easier to do than describe...

Ray

Originally Posted by RayG

Yes, so that the line HH is parallel to the chuck when the block is flipped. As Phil says, it's easier to do than describe...

Ray

Yes I agree. I just wanted to check as I started to have self-doubts!