Thread: Trouble with calibrating level

The sensitivity of a master precision level requires a very well made adjustment screw, patience, and a careful approach to controlling temperature growth of any part of the level or the surface. It cqn be seriously vexing, but it shouldn't take four hours.

Have you kept handling the lefel to a minimum during the process? I wear ski gloves when handling levels and spotting masters as ai gre tired of chasing my tail which is what happens with only a small warm spot on any of the apparatus.

Greg

Hi Mark,
What are you sitting the level on when you are checking it?
As the base is very likely not flat(mine wasn't), its placement needs to be very repeatable. Its going to make life hard but you can get there.
As Greg says, even with everything going for you its only tiny movements.
The lathe doesnt need to be level just the same both ends, so as long as you dont turn the level 180 when you change ends, you should be set.


Stuart

Hi Mark,
It sounds like you have it pretty sorted now, but you can start with a carpenters lever to get it close, then switch levels.
Like Stuart said, try to use the same place on the level each end, I even mark my level and parallels with a texta so I know it's going in the same spot each end.

One thing to watch out for is if the bubble is touching either end, it will have you chasing your tail for hours.

Dave

Thanks for the advise guys. Hopefully have it sorted now. Am using ground parallels and marking them with texta to get it in the same position each time I move it. Was a very tedious job but should be well worth it in the long run. As they say "Patience is a virtue"
Thanks again
Mark

Am using ground parallels and marking them with texta to get it in the same position each time I move it.

Best practice is not to move it at all.
If you work lengthwise, put it on the saddle and leave it there. Crank the saddle over the full length.
Do the same for the X-axis.
As soon as you move it, you just have a new zero-point and proceed along one axis (X or Z).
It also isn't important (in the case of a lathe) that the level gives the same reading when you rotate it by 180°.

Even better if you do have two levels!


Nick

Originally Posted by MuellerNick

Even better if you do have two levels!


Nick

but wont both levels need to be to read exactly the same on the same plane?...would you trust a cheapie level to do that?

Hi eskimo,
I think Nick means using two levels on the saddle at 90degs to each other, one for X and one for Z. Then you dont have to keep moving them, saving you the trouble of getting repeatablity and rechecking of zeros each time.

Stuart

ah ah that makes sense

HI,
I am a bit Late here, but I had the same Trouble with My Machinist Level that I Bought of Shars. The Temperature seemed to be Inconsistent in the Shed and I couldn't get the level to Work Properly. I had checked the level the Night before in the House on a Granite Surface Plate and the Calibration was O.K. .
I ended up using an Electronic Level that I Bought of VEK Tools to level My AL-960b Lathe. When I Read Greg Q Comments My problems might have been My Own - touching the level to Much. I will try with Gloves next Time.