Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Results 1 to 4 of 4
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Northern Brisbania...
    Posts
    791

    Default "Tube Ends" for thicker-walled Tubing?...

    Dear "Spark-Makers" ,

    I'll be wanting to mount Castors at the bottom of some frame-legs that will be made from SHS-tubing soon, and I want to use some of those "threaded"-type Tube-Ends that you push into the end of the tube, and then screw your Castor's mounting-bolt up into. The only trouble is - the Tube-Ends on offer all seem to have been designed for tubes with only 1.6mm thick walls, whereas I want to use tubes with walls that are at least 2.5mm thick (This is because the extra thickness will make it much easier for me to weld the tube-style legs to the rest of the frame, which will be made of angle at least 3mm thick...)

    The crux of the problem is that when they say - for example - that 25 x 25 SHS is available in 1.6mm, 2.0mm, and 2.5mm Wall-Thicknesses, the extra Wall-Thickness extends inwards, so that the external dimension of the tube remains 25mm. It is the internal distance between the tube's walls that shrinks when the Wall-Thickness is increased. So - if a Threaded Tube-End is designed for an SHS with 1.6mm Walls, then it's going to be a very, very tight fit (if at all...) into a 2.5mm-walled SHS, because the hollow opening is going to be 1.8mm smaller in each direction - ie. 2 x (2.5mm - 1.6mm) = 1.8mm.

    The two main "players" in the game are "Fallshaw" and "EHI" - the latter being the brand stocked by Bunnings. You might have seen the Fallshaw units in more-industrial-type outlets; they are made in two separate plastic halves, into which a couple of captive-nuts are inserted prior to the halves being held together and then pushed into the end of your tube. In contrast, the EHI product is a single plastic module that is cast around an embedded steel female thread. Having seen both, I think I prefer the EHI's... (sorry, can't get my hands on any useful photos of either...)

    Trouble is - both of them (going by the data given on their respective websites), appear to have been nominally designed for insertion into 1.6mm walled Tubes...

    So, the question is - have any of you "muscled" one of them - preferably the EHI brand - into a thick-walled Tube? Perhaps with enough applied force, their outermost extremities get "planed" off by the inside-edge of the tube-walls, and hence are able to fit...

    Many Thanks,
    Batpig.

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Lambton, Newcastle, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    4,957

    Default

    Batpig have you looked at just welding in standard threaded nuts to take your castors or if need be weld the nuts to a piece of flate plate and then weld the plate to the shs. Thats how we used to do it before the little fancy bits came along. (Tip when welding in nuts keep a bolt in so when they heat up it doesn't distort the nut.)
    Instagram: mark_aylward
    www.solidwoodfurniture.com.au


    A good edge takes a little sweat!!

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Garvoc VIC AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    11,464

    Default

    I have knocked them into thickwall tube successfully,
    You may need to file them down a bit if the tube is very thick
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Northern Brisbania...
    Posts
    791

    Default

    Dear Gents,

    Bob - that's good to hear! It might therefore be worth a punt on grabbing four of the EHI's from the BigB; 3 on one docket, and just 1 on another docket. I can then try one of them in a piece of thick-walled SHS, and if it works, keep the other 3. If it is destroyed in the process, then I'll take the other 3 back next time I'm down there...

    Claw - Excellent back-up plan! I'll see what comes of the above, and if failure results, I might have to go your way. If I do - given that I will probably use 5mm plate - I will try to "cut" a thread through the plate's hole by starting the Tap off by threading it down through the Nut (which will already be welded in place on the plate). That way I should end up with a nice long female thread for my Castors' bolts.

    Many Thanks both,
    Batpig.

Similar Threads

  1. "I see stupid people!" or "spot the blithering idiot"
    By journeyman Mick in forum NOTHING AT ALL TO DO WITH WOODWORK
    Replies: 46
    Last Post: 29th October 2010, 07:29 AM
  2. Replies: 8
    Last Post: 22nd July 2009, 09:03 PM
  3. Difference "Galvanised" and "Primed" Steel
    By Fr_303 in forum METALWORK FORUM
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 22nd January 2008, 05:59 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •