Thread: Twist lock segmented v belt

Hello Tom,

I have a length of linked belt I purchased from Transeals. I use it only for determining the length of belt required and then I fit a standard vee belt. I originally purchased it to replace the countershaft to spindle belt on my green lathe but with the belt set on the smallest spindle cone pulley, it rubbed on the back gear cover. I removed the spindle and replaced the belt. If this is for your 260, you probably won't have the same problem. If you would like to try a linked belt, you are very welcome to borrow mine.

Bob.

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

I use it only for determining the length of belt required and then I fit a standard vee belt.

a man of your talents and you dont know how to work out the length requirement for a belt?.....geeez!!!

I just go here cos its quicker

V-Belt Length Calculator

Originally Posted by Damienol

Well I managed to get 4 ft of PowerTwist for $30 from Amazon when I was in the USA for business back in October.


Just now had a chance to install it.


First observation is that it is a lot harder to install then the standard v-Belt. But not too hard.


I haven't yet had a chance to cut some timber however I did do a before and after coin test - results attached. Not really sure this is a definitive test but a test none the less


I am unable to upload mov files however the result was that a one dollar coin balanced on its side fell over on the traditional belt but not the PowerTwist

Now with videosTraditional.aviPowerTwist.avi

Originally Posted by eskimo

a man of your talents and you dont know how to work out the length requirement for a belt?.....geeez!!!

I just go here cos its quicker

V-Belt Length Calculator

Richard,

In my defense of using the linked belt as a gauge I will provide an example.

Both my Waldowns have an intermediate pulley, the position of which is adjusted by means of an eccentric. The 3M has its motor mounted on an over centre tensioner but is also adjustable in relation to belt tension by means of a pair of sliding dowels or bars . My bottom of the barrel basic Waldown has the motor sliding on dowels ( as does the 8SN model that everyone else has ). The eccentric adjuster on the intermediate pulley has a locking arm which can obstruct the belt path from the spindle pulley. There are a few variables. An inch out of whack in belt length can mean the motor rubs against the belt guard or the belt can't be tensioned or the locking handle is in the way. Using the link belt enabled me to purchase the correct length belts the first time.

I installed the link belt on my little Hercus mill. It stretched and continued to stretch. I it off and removed the spindle and installed a Gates belt. Whisper quiet and stretchless.

My discontent with linked belts is based on the belt obtained from Transeals. Maybe other brands of belt don't stretch, aren't too wide and don't make noise.

BT

Mine has a belt that is pre drilled with a metal joiner.

When it becomes too short, I'll just buy a conventional belt of length that is the maximum required, cut and drill it for the joiner.

It doesn't need all the holes.

The joiner is simply a plate top and bottom, with the bottom plate tapped for the screw threads.

P1070840.JPG

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

Richard,

In my defense of using the linked belt as a gauge I will provide an example.

Both my Waldowns have an intermediate pulley, the position of which is adjusted by means of an eccentric. The 3M has its motor mounted on an over centre tensioner but is also adjustable in relation to belt tension by means of a pair of sliding dowels or bars . My bottom of the barrel basic Waldown has the motor sliding on dowels ( as does the 8SN model that everyone else has ). The eccentric adjuster on the intermediate pulley has a locking arm which can obstruct the belt path from the spindle pulley. There are a few variables. An inch out of whack in belt length can mean the motor rubs against the belt guard or the belt can't be tensioned or the locking handle is in the way. Using the link belt enabled me to purchase the correct length belts the first time.

what a great story...hahaha

No really, I do believe you as it is the same on my bandsaw...I bought a couple of belts as I knew (err thought) at least one of them would fit...and I struck it lucky..one did.

And Gates are very good...especially the cogged type belts

Originally Posted by Bedford

Mine has a belt that is pre drilled with a metal joiner.

When it becomes too short, I'll just buy a conventional belt of length that is the maximum required, cut and drill it for the joiner.

It doesn't need all the holes.

The joiner is simply a plate top and bottom, with the bottom plate tapped for the screw threads.

P1070840.JPG

now that is rough!!!
it must produce vibrations and or wear the pulley prematurely...not to mention the clickety clack

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

My discontent with linked belts is based on the belt obtained from Transeals. Maybe other brands of belt don't stretch, aren't too wide and don't make noise.

BT

I've used a fair bit of the Fenner twistlock belting over the years and been pretty happy with it. Of course a lot of it was on stuff we took to sea. Lots easier to carry a roll of A section & B section belt than a mountain of V belts only to find out you don't have the one size you actually need (BT, DT).

Got a Fenner belt running on one of my drill presses ATM without problems including stretch. The stuff is expensive though, cheaper to buy from Ebay in the USA than a distributor in Australia. I'd really only use it to avoid tearing down a preloaded spindle or similar.

PDW

Originally Posted by eskimo

it must produce vibrations and or wear the pulley prematurely...not to mention the clickety clack

Why would it do that?

A V belt drives on the V so the metal joiner doesn't touch the pulley.........

Originally Posted by Bedford

Why would it do that?

A V belt drives on the V so the metal joiner doesn't touch the pulley.........

Yes, these belts don't make any noise if fitted for the correct size.

They have at least a 25% greater shock loading capability than a conventional belt.

They are harder wearing than a conventional rubber belt due to their nylon block construction. Used extensively on mining equipment exposed to dust and grit.

I used one on a heavy duty mulcher/chipper for years and it never looked like failing. Conventional belts went to pieces in a very short time.

They really are a good belt, and can be fitted without disassembling machinery, and made to any length.

The only downsides are that you cannot run an idler/tensioning pully against the back (flat) side, and they have a higher profile and greater depth than a conventional belt - which may present clearance issues in a snug situation - eg. a small saw bench blade pulley close to the saw plate.

Rob

I would respectfully suggest that the type of belt with a screw joiner shown by "Bedford" in Post #21 is only suited to a limited speed and load range in lighter applications, and is not suited to high speeds and loads.
I well recall a time when the original belts failed on the fan drive of an aircooled diesel engine employed on 24 hour pumping service. The (government) fitters appeared and installed a new set of 3 belts of this type and assured us our problems were solved. Next morning we found a siezed engine minus the belts and a job site flooded with water and vital equipment submerged. Seems those belts scarcely saw sundown before they parted company. I guess it's a story of horses for courses. Combustor.

Originally Posted by Bedford

Why would it do that?

A V belt drives on the V so the metal joiner doesn't touch the pulley.........

yes...but when the belts wears its going to be different story

and also as Combustor says they would certainly only be limited to light duty.

Originally Posted by nearnexus

Yes, these belts don't make any noise if fitted for the correct size.

They have at least a 25% greater shock loading capability than a conventional belt.

They are harder wearing than a conventional rubber belt due to their nylon block construction. Used extensively on mining equipment exposed to dust and grit.

I used one on a heavy duty mulcher/chipper for years and it never looked like failing. Conventional belts went to pieces in a very short time.

They really are a good belt, and can be fitted without disassembling machinery, and made to any length.

The only downsides are that you cannot run an idler/tensioning pully against the back (flat) side, and they have a higher profile and greater depth than a conventional belt - which may present clearance issues in a snug situation - eg. a small saw bench blade pulley close to the saw plate.

Rob

Rob
What Bedford posted is not the link type belt as discussed higher up...it is a belt that has a plate fastened to each end of the cut belt held with a couple pk's (similar to a temporary repair job)

Originally Posted by Combustor

I would respectfully suggest that the type of belt with a screw joiner shown by "Bedford" in Post #21 is only suited to a limited speed and load range in lighter applications, and is not suited to high speeds and loads.

Yes, they are down rated by 30% and speed limited to 3500 FPM, http://www.goodyearep.com/uploadedFi..._v-belting.pdf

Originally Posted by Combustor

I well recall a time when the original belts failed on the fan drive of an aircooled diesel engine employed on 24 hour pumping service. The (government) fitters appeared and installed a new set of 3 belts of this type and assured us our problems were solved. Next morning we found a siezed engine minus the belts and a job site flooded with water and vital equipment submerged. Seems those belts scarcely saw sundown before they parted company. I guess it's a story of horses for courses. Combustor.

I suspect this would be because they wouldn't have been matched, http://www.emersonindustrial.com/en-...Form_9787E.pdf