Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 16 to 30 of 33
-
9th November 2014, 07:24 PM #16.
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 27,792
Yep its a good thing to use.
The carbys should be taken apart and degreased as much as possible by washing in a suitable solvent e.g. carboy cleaner.
You might find this is enough to clean it up
If the US cleaner is a small one I would not put too much stuff in there or it will take too long.
Not more than about 1/4 of volume of the tank should be filled with the metal carby bits.
The parts should be placed in a glass or metal container and where possible covered in solvent.
Place the glass or metal container in the US tank and fill up with water around the container to about 2/3rd of the tank depth.
I have use liquid Dichloromethane CH2Cl2 also known as Methylene chloride (the same stuff as in paint stripper) very successfully on carboys.
In a pure liquid form it is dangerous, relatively expensive, and hard to get but it is very effective.
In paint stripper it's mixed with metho and/or toluene and formed into a gel - I would not use paint stripper direct in an US as the gel will not work in the US.
It may work if diluted sown with other solvents (e.g. more metho or toluene) till it forms a liquid but I have not tried it.
Whatever you use, do a test run with the solvent and a similar piece of metal just in case the combo corrodes the carby material.
Watch out for any rubber/plastic/gasket bits of the carboy - these should be cleaned separately.
The solvent can be commercially available carby cleaner or similar. I would not recommend using petrol.
Carby cleaner is usually a toluene/metho/acetone mix.
Even just a mix of 50/50 metho/acetone should work.
Use as small an amount as is required - more is not always better.
BEWARE carby cleaner is highly flammable and moderately toxic mix so ensure plenty of ventilation (I would do it outside) and practice serious fire safety.
When finished, transfer the used solvent into a tall clear container, let the gunk settle out and you can resuse the clean solvent again many times before disposal.
-
9th November 2014 07:24 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
9th November 2014, 08:42 PM #17Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2014
- Location
- Sydney
- Age
- 46
- Posts
- 80
Thanks BobL,
I have used carby cleaner(spray can) and with good results. I just want to see if I can take it to the next level as sometimes after my track bike carby has been sitting around for a while the accelerator pump outlets can block up. At the risk of carby cleaner corroding parts(doing to good a job) can I use something else I bit more mild and rely on the process of what I have read in the last few post about how the US cleaner actually works regarding the micro explosions. Or am I assuming incorrectly?
-
9th November 2014, 09:33 PM #18.
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 27,792
-
10th November 2014, 07:11 AM #19
I thought US cleaners use water in the tank and you place your items in the water sitting on a grill. If you have the items in a container inside the water, isn't that defeating the purpose of transmitting the us waves via the water and release the gunk?
Water temperature, time, amount of detergent or soda or similar should be the variables as far as I know (that is not much)“We often contradict an opinion for no other reason
than that we do not like the tone in which it is expressed.”
Friedrich Nietzsche
-
10th November 2014, 09:21 AM #20Cba
- Join Date
- Aug 2007
- Location
- Melbourne
- Age
- 68
- Posts
- 1,417
Not at all Mark. I regularly use commercial US cleaners in my customer's labs. I never use the water in the tank directly for cleaning. I always put the object(s) to be cleaned into a glass beaker, filled with a suitable solvent such as Isopropanol or Acetone or in ceratin cases even Cloroform. The glass beaker then rests on the grill of the US cleaner, submerged in the water which is usually kept at room temperature. I almost invariably see these US cleaners installed inside a fume hood, this is a precaution because they are very often used with solvents. When used with water, it is also common to put the object to be cleaned in a beaker with demineralized water, such as not to contaminate the water in the US cleaner. There is no noticeable attenuation of the US waves by using a submerged beaker, because the water in the US cleaner is in direct contact with the glass beaker, and the beaker again is in direct contact with the cleaning solvent.
As an analogy, think of a medical imaging US scanner. You put a gel on the transducer head to conduct the US waves to the shin, such as to exclude any air bubbles in between that would block the US waves and cause image artefacts.
-
10th November 2014, 10:05 AM #21Pink 10EE owner
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Location
- near Rockhampton
- Posts
- 4,304
-
10th November 2014, 10:41 AM #22.
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 27,792
Chloroform is a terrific solvent. We used to use a lot of chloroform for cleaning and also for sample purification by solvent extraction. It was the standard way we would would extract lead out of leaded petrol. Add petrol to a mix of nitric acid and chloroform and shake - the methyl lead would preferentially dissolve into the nitric and the rest into the chloroform. We even used to distill the chloroform ourselves to get it extra pure because even the analytic grade reagent chloroform had some lead in it. Everything was done in a fume hood and the students would get a right royal roasting if they left the even closed container in the open lab. I remember ordering 10, 2.5L bottles of the stuff when we hear that new OHS regs was coming in to limit the amount we could use. When it finally came in in the 1990's we were asked to use other solvents. It is still used in small the lab in small amounts for extracting trace amounts of platinoid metals out of crude oil.
-
10th November 2014, 12:37 PM #23GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Aug 2011
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 2,951
OK. Look like I know what to ask for when Christmas comes around. A 3L US cleaner with the rotary dials. I can imagine mainly using it to clean nuts and bolts. It drives me mental cleaning the gunk out of cap head bolts etc. and the thought of putting a machine back together with dirty nuts and bolts is even worse!
Cheers,
SimonGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
-
10th November 2014, 01:21 PM #24
Mm ... interesting ... now I have to figure out why I would NEED an ultrasonic cleaner for ... I wonder if it will clean the rust off steel?
“We often contradict an opinion for no other reason
than that we do not like the tone in which it is expressed.”
Friedrich Nietzsche
-
10th November 2014, 01:31 PM #25SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2007
- Location
- Sydney
- Posts
- 2,340
-
10th November 2014, 01:58 PM #26Philomath in training
- Join Date
- Oct 2011
- Location
- Adelaide
- Age
- 59
- Posts
- 3,149
I had one to clean up the CVA (solvent in the jar trick mainly) but when that was done sold it to Stuart. Standard Ebay 2l model but worked. I've also used them for cleaning out ink drawing pens (using water in a jar) and managed to get one or two oil metering valves working again (out of 6 - not a roaring success). Very good for loosening up dirt in nooks and crannies, not so good for large amounts of muck - pre-clean when ever possible. Unless the rust is very flaky I would not have thought it would do much worth knowing about.
Once upon a time an Australian company called Soni-clean (?) made models with swept frequencies to avoid having nodes form. Apart from electronics melt downs, the biggest problem with non-industrial units was that the transducers are normally only attached to the tank with adhesive, so without fluid in them the energy has to go somewhere and normally does by shaking the transducer off. If you find an old secondhand unit that is sold as "not working" it may be as simple as opening it up and re attaching (silicone sealant etc) the transducer(s)
Michael
-
10th November 2014, 04:14 PM #27Cba
- Join Date
- Aug 2007
- Location
- Melbourne
- Age
- 68
- Posts
- 1,417
It has many uses in the chemistry lab. As Bob says, Cloroform is a terrific solvent.
About the only use I can think of in a home shop is to glue PMMA (PoyMethylMethAcrylate, better known as Perspex, Plexiglass, Acrylite, Lucite etcetcetc). That is the clear plastic sheets that can be bent with a heat gun, drilled, tapped etc etc. Often used to make up shield for lathes, mills, grinders.... As far as I know, nothing else can be used to glue this stuff, only Chloroform will create a clear and solid bond. The main difficulty in keeping Chloroform in a workshop is its volatility. It is stored in glass bottles with a Teflon seal in the screw cap. Even then, the level in the bottle will slowly drop over time. I could however imagine, that in Australia it is hard to get Chloroform outside of a lab environment (nowdays they even legislate for special petrol mixes that do not lend themselves too well for kids petrol sniffing.)
-
10th November 2014, 04:51 PM #28GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Aug 2011
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 2,951
Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
-
10th November 2014, 05:04 PM #29
-
10th November 2014, 08:18 PM #30
Similar Threads
-
Where to purchase a Ultrasonic Cleaner?
By bwal74 in forum METALWORK FORUMReplies: 6Last Post: 14th June 2012, 07:48 PM -
pressure cleaners
By burraboy in forum GENERAL & SMALL MACHINERYReplies: 9Last Post: 30th July 2009, 11:25 AM -
Brush Cleaners
By Sorehorse in forum FINISHINGReplies: 1Last Post: 2nd October 2005, 11:45 PM