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3rd January 2012, 08:47 PM #1Intermediate Member
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- Nov 2009
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- Rockhampton
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- 43
Using a grinder disc in a circular saw?
No before u think I'm crazy
Disc is rated at 8000rpm and is 22/25mm size.
Disc is a concrete cutting disc from bunnings it's sontax turbo cut blade. Non slotted.
Its to cut through bessa blocks which might be concrete filled.
Circular saw is a makita 235mm saw with a no load rpm of 4200rpm.
Basically I need to cut a 2400x750mm hole for a fish tank.
It's the only way I can think to cut inside and get a neat cut
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3rd January 2012 08:47 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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3rd January 2012, 08:50 PM #2.
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
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- Perth
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- 27,796
How deep a cut do you need to make?
If it's not too deep, rather than root a good saw I suggest buying a cheap angle grinder and root that instead.
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3rd January 2012, 08:50 PM #3Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Nov 2009
- Location
- Rockhampton
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- 43
DIAMOND BLADE TURBOCUT 230MM
That's the blade pic is of slightly different model. Actually it does not state what's its for?
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3rd January 2012, 09:05 PM #4SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jan 2004
- Location
- Bellingen
- Posts
- 587
I have mounted one in one of my cheap power saws and put it into a "carpenters table saw" setup to cut bevels in thick tool steel for plane blades.. I don't think I would do it to a Mak though.. Hire a wet saw ( looks like a power saw with water hose attachment..fix a few straight edges down with some thin scrap and have a go.. It would prob cost $50ish for a half day hire if your quick..
Your probably still going to have to chisel out the waste if you go with a normal power saw anyway.. Most Bessa bricks are 200 thick arnt they?
Actually.. I made a cradle for a 9inch grinder to slide down a roof once so I could cut a perfect line in a parapet wall for some flashing.. Worked a treat.
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3rd January 2012, 09:09 PM #5Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Nov 2009
- Location
- Rockhampton
- Posts
- 43
Well it needs to go 200mm through bessa block apparently max cut depth is 83mm which leaves 2" to bash though if I cut both sides.
I have 3 sides I can use Use as a straight edge 4 the forth I will just scre a bit of timber there and slide the blade along that edge.
Once I have front cut neat I don't care about the rear side as it can't be seen
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3rd January 2012, 09:19 PM #6SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jan 2004
- Location
- Bellingen
- Posts
- 587
Sounds like a plan.. If you get a brickie cold chisel (looks like a paint scraper on steroids) and slip it into the rough side cut.. Juts a little taps and it should split.. Just keep working your way around the waste side gently and it will pop off easy... If your not fussy about the sole plate on your saw you can flatten it back out with sandpaper.. You will loose the hard anodizing on it but you will prevent any marring on you timber when you use it next...
If you have a grinder why don't you just make a cradle for it? Two bits of ply and scrap plus some big hose clamps? Saves a good saw.
Let me know how it works out!
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3rd January 2012, 09:32 PM #7Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Nov 2009
- Location
- Rockhampton
- Posts
- 43
The makita is very old still plastic casing though. It was free from work arround home I use a smaller one.
I have a small makita angle grinder here. But that's bland new.
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3rd January 2012, 09:36 PM #8
Seriously, go down to your local hire centre and find out how much to hire a proper one, most likely will cut more than a 100mm deep and you won't have to worry about rooting your own or the bosses saw going from your other thread.
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3rd January 2012, 09:38 PM #9Pink 10EE owner
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Location
- near Rockhampton
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- 4,304
Back in 1989 was the first time I saw a cut off blade used in a circular saw on the job site of a steel framed house... Seemed to work quite well...
Light red, the colour of choice for the discerning man.
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3rd January 2012, 09:50 PM #10Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Nov 2009
- Location
- Rockhampton
- Posts
- 43
Saw has been written off. I'm a lecky we got rid of all our wood saws.
I'll see what rental mobs have but I don't want a wet cutter as its in side.
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3rd January 2012, 10:02 PM #11Distracted Member
- Join Date
- May 2010
- Location
- Lower Lakes SA
- Age
- 58
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- 2,557
Hope you're ready for a mess. Make sure you have a good dust mask and rack up some points with the missus first.
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3rd January 2012, 10:03 PM #12.
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- Feb 2006
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- Perth
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- 27,796
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3rd January 2012, 10:05 PM #13
I've done it, makes a mess of the saw motor 'cos it sucks in the dust.
I blew mine out with compressed air & it still works.Cliff.
If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.
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3rd January 2012, 10:23 PM #14Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Nov 2009
- Location
- Rockhampton
- Posts
- 43
I specialize in hv. Only 240v I do is at home. We can't even change a lift bulb at work.
Im getting alot of drop sheets and making a
Mini room. I did the same in mates shed to stop over spray and saves us moving everything out. It was a rental so he couldn't even get spray on the roof or floor.
I've heard wet concrete cutting is easyier and cleaner but the wet concrete will almost reset. On the carpet this would be impossible 2 remove
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