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Thread: Varnamo EV-3 Shaper Rebuild
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4th May 2013, 07:09 PM #16
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4th May 2013, 07:17 PM #17SENIOR MEMBER
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Ray & Josh,
another tip that may be of use to you
after I have taken the derusted metal out of the molasses bath; I pressure wash the crud and sludge off the metal and then treat with POR15 Metal Ready. A bit pricey but works a treat. Stops the flash rust (as opposed to "flight rust") and if used as the instructions inhibits further rust and leaves a zinc coat/layer. Leaves metal ready to paint.
Ken
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4th May 2013, 09:29 PM #18SENIOR MEMBER
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Varnamo EV-3 Shaper Rebuild
Hi josh,
I have always used 4 water to one molasses. I see Ken has used forty to one and fifteen to one. Interesting to see how it goes. I will be using four to one because of the mind blowing amount of rust in the pump. I reckon I could be the east coast supplier of rust. I'd make a fortune.
Phil
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5th May 2013, 06:46 PM #19SENIOR MEMBER
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I ended up using some phosphoric acid to clean off the surface rust as it was not really that bad in the end.
Here are some more progress pictures of the table parts cleaned and painted.
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-Josh
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5th May 2013, 06:54 PM #20SENIOR MEMBER
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Hey SW Phil,
please peruse posting #11
The 40:1 was a bit weak; but the vat had a small leak, so I only used the weak mix so I didn't waste any black gold. The cherry barrel was in the sun and mixture was hot. Air temp 35-40C.
Ken
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5th May 2013, 09:05 PM #21SENIOR MEMBER
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5th May 2013, 09:42 PM #22
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6th May 2013, 01:17 PM #23SENIOR MEMBER
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Not possible Phil, I'm having a such good time reading that thread, and watching your magic unfold is something else...
I put a breakup pass on the face of the cross rail last night and put it on the surface plate (with much difficulty as it is about 70-80 kg) and even though it was a false blue (a little grit fell onto the table out of an oiler holes and blue was way way too heavy) it still was enough to show that it was not miles.
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I have been thinking about the missing tools for the Varnamo rebuild.
1. A lifting bracket and load balancer for the cross rail that will allow for smooth lifting on and off the surface plate. I think it should be able to rotate around its long axis so that i can easily flip it over by myself without upsetting any of the spotting. This is crucial as the cross rail will be used a master for scraping the saddle.
2. A 90/60 degree straight edge spotting master for the top and bottom edge of the of the cross rail. If I make it a prism I should also be able to use it for spotting the dovetails as well.
3. A large straight edge for the column and or 4.
4. Mobile gantry style crane WLL 2.5T (enough to lift the column of the shaper onto the large surface plate)
-Josh
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7th May 2013, 09:05 PM #24
Looking good Josh.
I doubt the flats on the cross rial see much wear, they were the least worn surfaces, still with scrape marks, on the Queen. Its the top bearing surface that cops it i think.
Would it be worth putting the Granite plate on the floor, well, on a low 3 point stand anyway, so lifting the body is not so hard? A new stand just high enough to get the engine crane legs under would work and it saves have 1000kg hanging at such a height. How does one even move such a weight on the plate to spot?
Cheers,
Ew1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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8th May 2013, 01:26 PM #25SENIOR MEMBER
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Ewan,
Your right the vertical flats on the cross rail does not have much wear, I doubt it will take much more than a dozen or so cuts to bring it into a nice bearing, and then another dozen to two to bring it to a very nice bearing. The top bearing looks much the same as the vertical flats (less than a thou). It appears that the majority of the wear has occurred on the saddle not the cross rail.
I can't say I'm keen on getting the plate low to the ground as that is where most of the dust comes from (concrete floor).
From my experience to does not take that much to move a heavy object on the surface plate (bearing on bearing contact with grease oil based blue (canode would be another story)), I will say once the bearing is good it would not hurt to clamp the plate down to stop it getting lifted of it mounts; thanks for reminding me .
Today I'm fabricating up the cradle for the cross rail to make handling it on and off the plate a much less back breaking effort.
Here is the progress so far. a 5 more slots to cut, drill a few holes a bit of turning and some more welding. Currently on lunch break.
The idea is to have the pivot points adjustable to where the centre of mass is so that it can be rolled over without upsetting the blue.
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10th May 2013, 05:59 PM #26SENIOR MEMBER
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Lifting fixture got a coat of paint as the sun went down. I like the colour *winks at RC*
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12th May 2013, 01:48 PM #27SENIOR MEMBER
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I have done a few rough passes now on the cross rail. I swapped out the blue at lunch time today for a much thinner blue since I was getting coverage all the way across the bottom rail with the thicker blue.
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-Josh
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12th May 2013, 03:29 PM #28Dave J Guest
Coming along nicely Josh.
Dave
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12th May 2013, 07:26 PM #29SENIOR MEMBER
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Thanks Dave. I got absolutely nothing done after lunch, but to make me feel I like have done something here is the lifting set-up for the cross rail. It lets me hook on at the ends and turn it to any angle I like. It should also work for the table. It makes handling on and off the surface place a nice and controlled event, and my back is thanking me.
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Sorry for the blurry photo, I could not seem to get a clean shot.
-Josh
I see if I can get in a dozen or so cuts done after supper.
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12th May 2013, 10:55 PM #30Dave J Guest
I like you lifting set up, that came out great.
Dave
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