Thread: Varnamo Shaper

Those one way bearings have come down in price over the years
One Way Bearings & Clutcheseramic,Miniature Ball Bearings
Might be an easier idea if your going to go through with it.

Dave

Ray I was talking out of my hat. Mine has only one nut. It is stationary when hand fed and rotates under power.

The site i've been working on the last few days has a similar roller type setup to stop pumps (Big Caprari Turbines) from rotating backwards, full load current 435 Amps, when we were commissioning, one of them was wired for reverse rotation... never seen a danfoss drive shut down so quick...

No smoke either...

Regards
Ray

Hi Bryan,

Here's another downfeed mechanism (not sure of the brand) it's from the Shaper book that is on Steve Lindsay's ( aka toolcat ) site that Dave Linked to.. Index of /shaper



I'm starting to think it's a doable upgrade..

Regards
Ray

Their is one around where a guy used a battery screw driver mounted to the feed screw, and a micro switch to activate it.

Dave

Thanks for the idea Dave, I'm thinking I can do a simple automatic downfeed system with a stepper motor, proximity switch, and a bit of circuitry and software..

Getting the rust off and general cleanup is slow going, took most of today just to do the toolhead..



Brush and Kerosene (with special Sovereign Hill parts washing dish) for the sides..



Being left out in the weather, has meant that water has crept in and rusted all sorts of unexpected places.

This is inside the clutch lever housing..


When I get to the front of the machine, I'll be pulling the table off and checking behind it to see how much rust has gotten into the swivel mechanism.

Anyone got any good designs for tool holders? Is there anything I need to watch out for?

Regards
Ray

Originally Posted by RayG

Anyone got any good designs for tool holders? Is there anything I need to watch out for?

Regards
Ray

Hi Ray
I finally got a memory stick so I will mail it out today with the info I have on shapers.

Phil

Originally Posted by RayG

Thanks for the idea Dave, I'm thinking I can do a simple automatic downfeed system with a stepper motor, proximity switch, and a bit of circuitry and software..

I know that's your comfort zone Ray, so why not? I have a fondness for mechanical systems, but if I had your skills that bias might shift.

Brush and Kerosene (with special Sovereign Hill parts washing dish) for the sides..

Starting to look great. You don't realise how dirty a machine is till you start cleaning it. Rewarding though. It really looks in exceptional nick.

Anyone got any good designs for tool holders? Is there anything I need to watch out for?

Holders can be dead simple to get started. Here's the first one I made, and I still use it for almost everything. It's made from two pieces - one slotted, one tapped, then welded together and finished. Some people swear by spring holders. I haven't tried one but if I came across a big old one I'd grab it to try. The other approach is to clamp the tool directly in the post. Again I haven't tried it but I would want something bigger than 3/8 for this. 5/8 maybe.

Looks great Bryan. I really should make something like that one day. I've just been using a lathe tool holder, makes life a little harder as you have to allow for the rake angle built into the holer when grinding tools.

Is is the same size both ends?

Stuart

Stuart, yes I made it double-ended thinking I could rotate it to swap tools but I never use the other end. I find it easier to slip a different tool in the same slot.

Thank Bryan,

Consider it copied.. What size HSS do you use, I'm thinking 1/2x1/2 for general work.

Spring tool holder? is that the swan necked ones?

I read somewhere about having the tool cutting point behind the clapper box, and that supposedly would stop "digging in", but that seems wrong to me, wouldn't that stop the clapper box from pivoting and cause a dig in on the backstroke?

I've probably misread it..

Regards
Ray

Originally Posted by RayG

Thank Bryan,

Consider it copied.. What size HSS do you use, I'm thinking 1/2x1/2 for general work.

I use 3/8 but 1/2 would be better.

Spring tool holder? is that the swan necked ones?

Yep.

I read somewhere about having the tool cutting point behind the clapper box, and that supposedly would stop "digging in", but that seems wrong to me, wouldn't that stop the clapper box from pivoting and cause a dig in on the backstroke?

I've probably misread it..

I think you've understood the issue perfectly. In theory the cutting edge is supposed to be directly in line with the back face of the clapper. In practice it's only an issue for slotting. I made an offset one but I don't think it made much if any difference. I find tool shape and feed rate more important.

Edit: Actually that's not right. In theory it should be in line with the centre of the pivot pin as that's the lowest point of the arc.

Originally Posted by RayG

Thank Bryan,

Consider it copied.. What size HSS do you use, I'm thinking 1/2x1/2 for general work.

Spring tool holder? is that the swan necked ones?

I read somewhere about having the tool cutting point behind the clapper box, and that supposedly would stop "digging in", but that seems wrong to me, wouldn't that stop the clapper box from pivoting and cause a dig in on the backstroke?

I've probably misread it..

Regards
Ray

Hi Ray
I posted the stick express post. Amongst it all it explains the theory. The cutting edge is on the pivot point. Not behind.

Phil

Hi Ray,
You might be interested in this. Its about planers but most of it applies.

Stuart