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Thread: Varnamo Shaper

  1. #46
    Dave J Guest

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    Great pictures Ray,
    I would say you need to either wind the block off the lead screw or wind the lead screw out to lift it higher. The pin would be press fit and the lead screw would need to be off before you could get to it.

    Anyway it looks like you have enough access to clean it up.

    Dave

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  3. #47
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    Hi Ray,
    I dont have one of these so I'm just guessing, but as you've removed the stroke position locking bolt aren't you lifting the yoke(I think thats what its called) with the stroke position adjustment screw? The yoke on mine is pretty damn heavy.

    Next guess, can't you just undo bolts 33 on page 13 of your pdf? So that the adjustment screw stays with the yoke?(you might have to wide the adjustment to each extreme so you can get to the bolt heads)

    Do you remember the pictures of my ways? lol

    Stuart

  4. #48
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    Hi Stuart,

    Yep, looking at that drawing, removing those two bolts (33's) and the position adjustment locking screw, would disconnect the head from the yoke, and I could lift the whole head off without removing the pin. It's all back together now, so I'm not going to do it.

    Also It should be easy enough to get at those bolts, by moving the head..

    I went back to your Invicta 4M thread, lot's of good reading there, and yes I saw the pictures of the ways... I won't re-post them here..

    Thanks Dave, The rust wasn't all that bad, but thanks for the tip. Getting at the ways was well worth the effort.

    I'm off to hook up the VFD...

    Regards
    Ray

  5. #49
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    Good work Ray, and great to see the ways in such good nick. Mine are a horror show. Seems like the integral dovetail makes life difficult. Can't really see the advantage. Lucky you won't have to scrape it.

    BTW, at the risk of seeming pedantic, it's called a ram. The head is the swivelly bit at the end of the ram that holds the tool slide & clapper.

  6. #50
    Join Date
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    My translation program doesn't like asparagus - I get
    3 / in feeding latch. this button
    raise and lower locking bolt
    from ratchet wheel

    Reminds me of the fun I had translating my mill manual

    Michael

  7. #51
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    Hi All,

    I hooked up a temporary VFD to give it a test run, to get some idea of the operation, and find out what needs to be done before I can start using it.

    It's running at 25 Hz so it's half speed for that gear selection.

    Here's a quick video (of sorts)

    Varnamo.AVI - YouTube

    Regards
    Ray

    Not sure why the forum youtube embedding isn't working, so I've just made it a URL ?

  8. #52
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    I don't think he would have the time to translate 23 pages, but if there were one or two pages that you would like translated, we could try that?
    Sorry, I thought it was just that page you wanted.
    Sterob

  9. #53
    Dave J Guest

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    What HP motor is on it Ray?

    Dave

  10. #54
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    Hi Sterob,

    All understood, thanks for the thought, much appreciated.

    Hi Dave,

    It's a 3 hp motor. Did that gearbox sound ok to you?

    Regards
    Ray

    PS 6:30am leaving for Steam CIty (Ballarat) Should be a good day..

  11. #55
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    Here's a start. There are another 3 pages that look to have useful information on them that I may look at later if time permits.
    The translation is rather free form, so I've left things in a word format so that you can add the diagrams back in and alter wording based on what you find.

    Michael
    Attachment 190638

    Attachment 190639

    Attachment 190640

    Attachment 190641

  12. #56
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    Ray, you're scaring me. Please wind the tool slide up. It's very close to the column on the back stroke. If it hits you will do major damage. You wouldn't normally have it overhanging that far for cutting anyway.

  13. #57
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    Part 2. I think after doing this that the translated word 'spool' is probably something like ram.
    Hope this helps (sounds like a good machine)

    Michael

    Attachment 190676

    Attachment 190677

    Attachment 190678

  14. #58
    Join Date
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    Ray as a matter of curiosity, what do you think you'll use that shaper for that you couldn't do on the mill? I struggle a lot with room, so there's no way in heck I could ever fit a big shaper in, but I've often thought about a small one. I really struggle to justify one based on utility, but am very keen to be convinced that I really have a hidden need for one Based on my principles of boundless plagiarism, I want to steal ideas of uses off others.

    Pete

  15. #59
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    Hi Michael, Those translations are excellent, thank you, much appreciated, I'll start work getting the drawings cut and pasted. Do you have a PDF character recognition program? Which one?

    Hi Bryan, I wasn't aware of the danger, so thanks for the alert! I did wind it over quite a few times by hand with the belt covers off before starting it.

    Hi Pete,
    You are laboring under the misapprehension that there is some method to my madness, me buying the machine, was a crime of opportunity..

    Let me set the scene...
    I was there, and the machine was in front of me, and, there, was the auctioneer saying $100 going once, going twice, and temptation got the better of me. You know the rest.

    What can you do with a shaper that you can't do with a mill? Good question, maybe those with more experience can answer better than I can , but some slotting jobs can't be done on a mill, maybe cutting inside keyways? I can do 18 wide cuts" with the shaper, which is a bit more than the mill. Also HSS tooling is cheaper..

    I'm sure those with more shaper experience can help out here...

    Final justification is, another nice bit of machinery saved from the scrap dealer, and the abuse of being left outside to rust away. That's good enough reason for me.

    Regards
    Ray

  16. #60
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    Ray, yeah 14" keyways was about the best I could come up with too

    Still, there's something very cool about shapers, at least in my mind.

    Pete

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