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Thread: Varnamo Shaper
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13th December 2011, 09:16 AM #91SENIOR MEMBER
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Thanks guys, sorry I was a bit busy to reply earlier. Dave, check out the country of origin of most of the machines you posted. I'll say no more I'm not sure a set of quality broaches bought locally is a fair comparison to a clapped out used or even a new Indian shaper, but I definitely get your point. As far as buying something simply because it's "cheap" I'm afraid I don't follow that philosophy at all. Even if something is free, I don't consider it at all "cheap" if I have no use for it. I have no need to clutter my life with useless crap simply because it didn't cost much ... well unless of course it's jousting sticks, I'll always make an exception for jousting sticks I guess I'd rather have less but really top quality "things" that I use constantly rather than surrounding myself with inexpensive crap, but hey that's just me and I'm not suggesting that's right or wrong, and it's why I posted the questions here. I've been toying with the idea of a shaper for ages, there's something magical about their operation, but I just can't convince myself it will get much use. Having said all that, if a really good one comes along at the right price it will probably get my name on it, so don't feel as if I'm bagging the machines, instead more a case of very public pondering Peter, you've been to my place, so I'm sure you appreciate the conundrum. Since then I now have a second lathe and still want to keep enough room for a decent size mill! I'm still looking for a good T&C grinder for the grinding area, and eventually hope to get a small CNC mill in there, but to throw a shaper in the works too .... dunno?
Yes sorry guys I was interchanging flat and parallel and of course they're quite different. I was just going through a mental exercise of making something. Dave made a good point I'd forgotten about also, that is, like grinders, shapers can true up their own work surface, which I'm sure could further contribute to accuracy.
Pete
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13th December 2011, 09:23 AM #92Distracted Member
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Ray, here's a couple of general links.
Metal Shaper FAQ
Shaper Book Page
I have several of those books saved but they're eluding me. In short, shaper tools need less clearance than lathe tools, because they don't feed during the cut. For steel, plenty of side rake helps. And you'll need a round nosed shear tool for finishing.
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13th December 2011, 09:41 AM #93Distracted Member
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Pete, you can certainly get by without a shaper. Lots of people do. And if space is tight you're right to be dubious. I'm in the opposite position - I have a shaper and no mill. I'd like to have a mill just because I love machines, but for the few times I really need it, the cost can't be justified. My shaper cost me about $650. Probably a grand by the time I got it home. I did then spend a bit on it, but ongoing costs are virtually nil. You can't even buy a round column mill-drill for a grand, let alone tooling. There's not much you can't do on a shaper. About the only thing is pocketing. You need at least two open sides.
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13th December 2011, 09:45 AM #94SENIOR MEMBER
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Bryan, yes I think I remember your shaper, quite a large one IIRC. Oh yes logically I have absolutely no use at all for a shaper, but they are just so cool to watch it's hard to resist.
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13th December 2011, 11:19 AM #95
Ok, I'll bite... seeing the bait dangling there was too much
I thought that a shaper was the only machine for inside keyways and inside gears.
Thanks all for the replies.
Stuart,
I'm doing the scotch brite and orbital sander trick on the flat surfaces around the table, so I'll take a few better pictures of the setup.
Dave,
Thanks for the tips on the table setup, I'm not in a hurry to remachine the table..
I'm not sure I've seen the swivel table set up on the Douglas, is it back together yet?
Phil,
I'll PM you my postal address, but I wouldn't like that to stop you from coming over for a visit.. you'd be most welcome.
Bryan,
Thanks for those links, I've started downloading some books, "The Shaping Machine" by Ian Bradley looks like a good starting point for some background reading. Beats reading swedish..
Pete,
I think you and I are on the same page, I don't NEED a shaper, I just WANTED one without any real logical thought processes to back it up. Ask me again in a few years and I'm willing to bet that the shaper will be getting plenty of work.
Regards
Ray
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13th December 2011, 01:32 PM #96Dave J Guest
Hi Ray,
The Douglas is only a very basic set up, no degree marking or anything like that.
This one is from the for sale section, you can see the extended head bolt hanging out the front and the table, you undo this to get it to swivel. You can also see the alignment pin on the side at the lower back. There is a hole that has been reamed half/half between the table and saddle for setting it back strait again.
On shapers, the table can also be completely removed for jobs that need to be bolted directly to the saddle. Like a angle plate could be bolted directly to it for finishing.
Dave
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13th December 2011, 01:59 PM #97SENIOR MEMBER
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13th December 2011, 02:18 PM #98
Hi All,
Ok, now I'm confused, not for the first (or last) time either.. Dave's picture of the Douglass had me running back to the shed for another look... Thanks Dave.
Having replied to Stuart that the table doesn't swivel, now I partially understand how it works, there are three bolts at the back inside the table, that looks like you could remove the front support and swivel the table. Eagle eyed Stuart wins again..
Here are some pictures that might help..unravel the question.
Inside the table, taken from the front, that pin in the middle is the locking pin by the look of it.
The left hand side of the table, looking from the front
The right hand side, that V groove would be handy for holding shafts I imagine.
The only surface that's had a decent clean up so far is the top, which was Lanox and scotchbrite pads on a random orbital sander, it just scrubs the rust off the surface without removing any metal.
So over to Stuart, does it swivel?
Regards
Ray
PS. Thanks Phil, as you might have figured out, I'm on a pretty steep learning curve.
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13th December 2011, 02:32 PM #99GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Ray,
I'd bet a my shaper that yours swivels
At a guess there will be a circular Tee slot under the three large bolts and middle small bolt at the top is the alignment somehow.
Maybe PDW has a slotter?
Hi Bryan,
I think you can cut a pocket with a shaper but you'd need(?) to drill a hole each end.
Stuart
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13th December 2011, 02:34 PM #100Dave J Guest
Hi Ray,
I would grab the engine crane and start working on taking the table off. This way you will be able to clean the surfaces and see exactly how it all works. If there are T slots behind their, they will probably have surface rust in them.
Dave
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13th December 2011, 02:39 PM #101GOLD MEMBER
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Changed my mind.
I still think it swivels but that small bolt I was talking about likely holds the leadsrew nut.
Stuart
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13th December 2011, 02:43 PM #102
Hi Stuart,
Your Invicta is safe, I'm not taking the bet..
Hi Dave,
Yep, going by the surface rust everywhere else, the table has to come off,
I've got a few days work up in NSW, so it won't happen until the weekend.
Still if it wasn't for Stuart's legendary keen eye for detail, and your picture I wouldn't have picked it.
Regards
Ray
PS Still wondering how PDW cuts internal keyways, gears and splines?
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13th December 2011, 09:10 PM #103SENIOR MEMBER
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Stu got it, I have a slotter to keep my shaper company. Bought it years ago when I was building a scale model saw mill (approx 2/3 scale, 36" dia blade) and I needed to cut a ton of keyways in pulleys, sprockets, gears etc. Ever priced a keyway broach set that can do 1/2" wide keys for a 4" length of cut? I did. Hence the slotter.
You *can* do keys in a shaper but it's a PITA whereas it's a piece of cake with the slotter. No clapper box to lock up, no oddball tool to make and you can see what you're doing without having to stand behind or use a mirror. The table has a built-in rotary table with power feeds on both linear ways plus the RT. Probably the least used machine in my shop but indispensible for me.
Ray, my shaper is a Prema and I think its label mentions Varnarmo somewhere as well. Might be from the same place. The table on mine tilts sideways but I never have, don't want the hassle of realigning it. Sort of like offsetting your TS; you can and if you need to you will, but you know you're going to pay for it to get it true again.
Not sure if anyone else has mentioned it, but shapers are very powerful beasts. That ram will punch holes in anything behind it if its guards are removed, ribs etc included. It can rip things out of a vise and throw them a long way. It looks slow & safe but you can lose a finger or hand in an eyeblink if you're tempted to get in there to remove chips etc on the back stroke and mistime it. I use a lot slower speed than I could and I always use the shortest feasible stroke. I'm not really expert with a shaper so I don't get anywhere near its potential.
Pete, yeah, you're tight on space and machinery has to pay its way. Shapers are neat but you can live without one. They don't demand anywhere near the amount of money on tooling that a mill does, though. My old reference books talk about cutting T slots and the like using a shaper but I'd rather use a milling machine. My main use for the shaper is planing off castings, hot rolled steel and the like. I could get more out of it but I'm a bit spoilt for choice with mills, that and I don't yet have a really good shaper vise.
What I really want is a metal planer. One day...
PDW
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13th December 2011, 09:19 PM #104Distracted Member
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Peter that's a sweet looking little slotter. What make is it?
Varnamo is a place in Sweden, formerly industrial heartland I think.
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13th December 2011, 10:23 PM #105GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Ray,
A few other things you'll need to make.
The crank handle is the only one you'd really "need"
Hi PDW,
Nice looking machine, can't see myself ever having the space for one though
Stuart
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