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Thread: Varnamo Shaper

  1. #106
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    Hi Stuart,

    Thanks for that, I was scrounging around looking for likely looking bits to make a handle and you've nicely anticipated the next step..

    That slotter is nice, I can see what PDW was driving at, on the other hand I could always stand the shaper on it's end...

    That's probably the better answer for PeteF, a slotter would take up less floor space.

    Regards
    Ray

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  3. #107
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    Hi Ray,
    You can get slotter heads for shapers........ I'm surprised yours didnt come with one (the pdf doesnt even list one)

    When you going to pour the 450mm deep slab? lol

    Stuart

  4. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by RayG View Post
    Hi Stuart,

    Thanks for that, I was scrounging around looking for likely looking bits to make a handle and you've nicely anticipated the next step..

    That slotter is nice, I can see what PDW was driving at, on the other hand I could always stand the shaper on it's end...

    That's probably the better answer for PeteF, a slotter would take up less floor space.

    Regards
    Ray
    Yes but except for internal keyways, splines, making blind square recesses and similar, a shaper is more generally useful. Given your casting setup, you won't go wrong with your shaper.

    I did the keyway on a shaper thing. Depending on the length to diameter ratio you need to make up a heavy angle plate with a slot in it to pass the cutter through, clamps etc to hold work to the angle plate, a locking device or replacement for the clapper box and a stiff boring bar. Even then I couldn't eliminate the chatter when cutting keyways.

    There are a couple of long-running threads on PM concerning shapers, well worth a read if you haven't done so.

    Got no idea what make my slotter is, BTW. I bought off a man who got it from a TAFE college many years before after they'd dropped it in a move. No nameplates anywhere on it. I'd like to slow it down somewhat so one day a 3 phase motor with VFD is going to get grafted on.

    PDW

  5. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by RayG View Post
    That's probably the better answer for PeteF, a slotter would take up less floor space.

    Regards
    Ray
    G'day Ray, actually a slotting head for the mill would be an ideal option if that's what I was looking to do yet save space. Unfortunately however they're not common. I think Bob has one though.

    Pete

  6. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete F View Post
    G'day Ray, actually a slotting head for the mill would be an ideal option if that's what I was looking to do yet save space. Unfortunately however they're not common. I think Bob has one though.

    Pete
    Pete, I've seen a few kits around the place for the Hercus mills like yours. IMO making one would not be a difficult project, easily within the scope of the tooling that you already have. Basically you need a big disc with a T slot or similar for stroke adjustment, a connecting rod and a guide for the bar holding the cutter bit. Richard bought a mill that had a slotter head like that fitted to it, he seems happy with it.

    PDW

  7. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete F View Post
    G'day Ray, actually a slotting head for the mill would be an ideal option if that's what I was looking to do yet save space. Unfortunately however they're not common. I think Bob has one though.

    Pete
    Yes I have one but not a real one. Mine's a homemade concoction based on some catalogue images and is grafted onto a superseded vertical head casting. While not complicated it was a challenge for me. I only had the little Hercus mill at the time. I used my Douglas to machine some of the parts.

    BT

  8. #112
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    I remember you posting about that Bob, you did a really good job.

    Dave

  9. #113
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    Looks like a pretty tidy 'concoction' to me Bob. Are you happy with its performance?

  10. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bryan View Post
    Looks like a pretty tidy 'concoction' to me Bob. Are you happy with its performance?
    No Bryan,

    The only time I have used the thing was when I cut (?) the splines in the photo. Chatter was a problem. The cutting tool would have been a contributor. Wearing in of the sliding surfaces would have also resulted in chatter inducing play. When I originally posted a show and tell, a number of suggestions were made regarding the enhancement of its performance. It needs oilways but more importantly it requires investigative blueing of the sliding surfaces and I expect, subsequent scraping to ensure a correct fit.

    The arrival of the Schaublin proved to be a distraction. The slotter has sat untouched since the pre 13, spline trial. Now that I'm armed with a Sandvik scraper, I should try my hand at a bit of remedial scraping.

    There is a slotting head available for my 13 on French Ebay, 1000 Euro, Buy It Now. I'm not tempted.

    BT

  11. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anorak Bob View Post
    There is a slotting head available for my 13 on French Ebay, 1000 Euro, Buy It Now. I'm not tempted.

    BT
    Oh come on Bob, where's your Christmas spirit? Though possibly not as much Christmas spirit as the guy who's asking 1000 Euro for a slotting head; not if you're planning on driving anyway!

    Pete

  12. #116
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    Why power downfeed rocks: because it's not just down, it's any angle you like. I guess it's like having a powered compound on a lathe. This is my first attempt at a dovetail.

    PC151949.AVI - YouTube

  13. #117
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    I like it Bryan.

  14. #118
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    Hi Bryan,

    Nice work and good video! So the tool holder production line is up and running

    I've been looking at the power downfeed option on the Varnamo, (not fitted) and wondering how hard it would be to make one.

    Don't forget pictures of the finished tool holder!

    Regards
    Ray

  15. #119
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    Nice work Bryan. In the video I see the finish you guys are getting excited about. It's very neat the way the tool holder flips out the way.

    Pete

  16. #120
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    Thanks guys. The still shot shows off the finish better (only the top face has been finished). You can still see faint tool marks but I don't mind that. To get it finer means half the feed rate so it takes twice as long. Here's a little clip of the shear tool in action, peeling off 'shirley temples'.

    Ray, I know how my downfeed works and they would all have to be similar. It wouldn't be a trivial exercise. Can you make bevel gears? S'pose you could buy those... How are you getting on with it anyway?

    PS: Pete, I always flip the clapper up as a safety thing; my clutch is a bit untrustworthy.

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