Thread: Vernier FV.3.TO Milling machine

Originally Posted by Stustoys

Some of us without power Z may not be that happy either
My chart says 490rpm could be a little on the fast side, if you call it hard cast its twice the speed......... but I would know very little about that

Whats the noise at 0.13 and about 0.24 in the second video? its that "hard spots"? or someone else?

That K&T will have power z......

I wouldn't call it hard Stuart, it cuts like butter.....

The noises in the Vid are the kids playing with the vacuum cleaner on the other side of the shed. Talk about the best amusement value, they love it.....although when they vacuum each others faces it looks more like torture.

Originally Posted by Ueee

Thanks Phil,
I didn't mention above, but i tried one of your suggestions and started by hand feeding (hence the cut is already started in the vid) and then comparing the feed rate to my rate, and it was about the same, so? I guess now i have 6hp to play with the mill won't really tell me when enough is enough.....i shudder to think how the HM50 would have coped with such a cut, damn she is rigid!

HI Ewan,
There is invariably a happy medium with feeds and speeds. Going too slow is the same as going too hard. Nothing worse than a tool rubbing and not cutting. The tool will become blunt quite rapidly then bend and break.
I thought about the HM50 and had a giggle. I imagined you putting the wohlhaupter in it and the mill spinning while the head remained stationary
I love using the Dormac purely for its rigidity. No bits wobbling all over the place, instills confidence, and that aint a bad thing...is it???

Phil

I took a break from scraping today and spent a bit of time on the head clamp. I'm getting the hang of the math for the feeds etc and seem to be going ok.
Thanks to BT* i was able to use a nice new 28mm slot drill to finish the slot that fits over the heads "tongue" Damn she is rigid. With the HM50 there is never a guarantee that moving an axis by x = slot gets bigger by x. Its just too floppy. On Mlle though i was able to machine the slot easily to 35.02mm. It goes on the head like a #### in a sock! On the subject of rigidity i had 7mm to take off one face. 50mm dia 6z carbide face mill.....5mm doc 1300rpm oh yeah! The down side is the chips flying everywhere......

Then onto the shaper for some therapy and cutting the dovetail. The last pic i took really shows the gear noise i get on the finish. Not sure what to do about that.....

I'm still waiting on one last bearing and cup for the uni head. It is a "rare" imperial bearing, none in aus according to my local shop. Tis a good thing too, the local price is a joke, but then so is the one from the US. How the f### can a standard tolerance bearing, only 2 3/4" in dia be worth $400?

*No jokes about the size of the cutter/13, i did well didn't i?

Lookin good Ueee, is the ID of the bearing the problem ?
If so, could you make a bush so you could use a standard brg with a larger ID

Originally Posted by shedhappens

Lookin good Ueee, is the ID of the bearing the problem ?
If so, could you make a bush so you could use a standard brg with a larger ID

Hi John,
I havn't looked into substitutes yet. I'm chasing a lead in the states on some not so pricey ones, but the numbers seem to be throwing a spanner in the works. The bearing doesn't seem to exist in the timken book, and the cup is a different size to that in the book.....
It is 2.750" x 1.1875" x .990". The cup is lipped as well. If i can't get one at a decent price i will have to bush it.

Ewan, are you 100% absolutely without a shadow of a doubt sure that the bearing is imperial? I would have thought a French machine would have metric bearings in it. Those sizes are getting close to 70x30x25. The French being who they are I would be really surprised if it was some "Anglo" size, especially from that vintage machine.
Having said that my Sajo (1964 build from a country that was metric from 1850 something) has Whitworth fasteners used extensively.
Have you considered whether you can convert the bearing to metric if it is not? It may make things easier in the future. Bores can be taken out; shafts can be built up.

Michael

Ewan, there is a dealer in obsolete bearings around the corner from me. What is the number on your bearing?

Greg

They are these numbers aren't they?

2558 2523B The B represents a flanged cup.

2558/2523B Bearing - Buy 2558/2523B Bearing online at Bearings.uk.com

Originally Posted by Greg Q

Ewan, there is a dealer in obsolete bearings around the corner from me. What is the number on your bearing?

Greg

In Rooks road ? Is that business still running ? AAA bearings ?

It is definitely imperial, it is the only thing on the machine that is (that i have found anyway) Boring the head out would not be easy, it could be done with the wolhaupter and a 300mm or so long bar. Its about the hardest register to get to. (I'll take some pics later)

R.C, nearly, its 2559/2523B. The timken catalog says 2523B is only 8mm wide though. There are some on ebay and i have asked for a check of sizes but have had no reply.

Hmmm....R.C you have got something there, the 2558 is the right size......and a $20 bearing. The race will still cost me $50 but thats way more bearable than $400. I did a search for timken bearings in those sizes but came up blank. I must have done something wrong.

Well its been a while since posting here. The bearing ended up coming from the states at less than $100 for both the bearing and race. It seems i have an oil leak though from the middle of the head section into the front of the head. I hope its my sealing and not the spindle seal.....the spindle seal is hidden away behind the bevel gear and bearing there.

I spent some time today making up a few draw bars. I got the NT40 vertical one done. The shaft is just MS, the head is a hard as all #### old axle. Its "case" hardened to a depth of about 10mm, its 40mm dia all up. i was having to seriously lean on the lathe carriage handwheel to get carbide to cut. The up side is it comes of the tool with a great finish.
The head is bored for a press fit of the shaft and then the head was welded on. I suffered some chatter milling the hex, i should have spent the 5 mins and swung the vertical away and gone horizontal, so i was not relying on the rigidity of the 6" RT up on its side.

Cheers
Ew

I made up the horizontal drawbar today, same as the little one only with a much longer head so i can get a spanner on it rather than having to use a socket and extension. The Mars soldiered through the hard stuff somewhat better today...a new insert and slightly lower feed rate i think.
When i cut the hex i also set the RT TS up, which solved the chatter. I was going to go horizontal but i though of that after i had welded the bar onto the head.....

I also started on the 2 taper pins used to tram the head. They *should* be 1:50 but i've had to do some trial and error machining to get the taper right. Probably my fault somewhere along the line with the sine bar.....I must say it is very nice to use a compound slide that runs straight and true and is not flopping about all over the place like a rubber chicken......

Thanks again to Phil for picking up on the lack of shims in the bearings of the mars too, it has made a massive difference.

Nice work Ewan, that draw bar looks very sweet..

I'm not sure what the 50:1 taper pins do? Does the Vernier have dowell locations for when it's in tram? (50:1 taper is metric... 48:1 is imperial (1/4" per foot) if I remember correctly)

I wasted half a day today looking around town for tapered pins and reamers... all I got was frustrated and confused. Maybe I should be making my own..

Regards
Ray

PS... Or you could get them from Small Parts.. Metric Taper Pins