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  1. #1
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    Default old victa mower flywheel

    Howdy all, I have an old victa mower fifties vintage and it needs to be stripped down for a rebore. I can't see how the flywheel comes off but assume its keyed to the shaft. There's a nut which has been removed but I don't want to damage it or the magneto underneath. Anyone have any suggestions or experience with these?

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  3. #2
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    East Warburton, Vic
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    You'll need a puller to remove the flywheel, if you look at the flywheel you should see either 3 or 2 boltholes to bolt a puller to.

    You can make a simple puller or buy one from most auto stores pretty cheaply.
    Cheers

    DJ


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  4. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by DJ's Timber View Post
    You'll need a puller to remove the flywheel, if you look at the flywheel you should see either 3 or 2 boltholes to bolt a puller to.

    You can make a simple puller or buy one from most auto stores pretty cheaply.
    Ok thanks I see three holes atop the flywheel. I'll make up a plate for it.

  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by DJ's Timber View Post
    You'll need a puller to remove the flywheel, if you look at the flywheel you should see either 3 or 2 boltholes to bolt a puller to. You can make a simple puller or buy one from most auto stores pretty cheaply.
    I second that advice - be aware that the edges of the flywheel is soft/easily cracked. Lube the spindle with penetrating oil if it's not been removed previously. Mark

  6. #5
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    From memory the shaft and flywheel bore have matching tapers, with a key to ensure positive positioning. A puller is the best approach, once you get it moving it should come easily

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by malb View Post
    From memory the shaft and flywheel bore have matching tapers, with a key to ensure positive positioning. A puller is the best approach, once you get it moving it should come easily
    She's off. I turned up a large 2.5" washer and drilled 3 holes eqispaced on a 42mm PCD and used a gear puller. Now I need to see to the brass cam. This appears to be partially keyed or at least the flywheel key engages about 3/16" of the cam.It seems to be on very tight. I'll try the puller on it too.

  8. #7
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    HI,
    Although you've done the Job, something thats worth mentioning when Removing Flywheels is about the Flywheel Nut. When Removing Flywheels from anything that has a 16mm (5/8") Thread or smaller, You should refit the Nut so that it is flush with the end of the Crank (nut must be loose and there must be a gap between it and the flywheel) . The reason for this is that if the Flywheel is quite stubborn then You will not spread the end of the Crank, because the Nut being fitted Prevented it. Although bigger Threaded cranks aren't as likely to Spread the end, if the Flywheel is proving to be Stubborn then it does pay to fit the Nut.
    All The Best steran50 Stewart

    The shortest way to do many things is to do only one thing at once.

  9. #8
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    Another hint that I picked up not long ago when working on a chainsaw is to stuff the cylinder with rope through the plug hole in order to stop the motor turning when removing or replacing the flywheel nut.

    Dean

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oldneweng View Post
    Another hint that I picked up not long ago when working on a chainsaw is to stuff the cylinder with rope through the plug hole in order to stop the motor turning when removing or replacing the flywheel nut.

    Dean
    HI,
    Yes, that is an Old Trick that Works well. Sorry if I sound like a Perfectionest, but when You use the Rope You should always Measure its Length both Before and After doing the Job. That way You will know if You have left any behind in the Engine or not (the piston can chop the rope off in a port).
    All The Best steran50 Stewart

    The shortest way to do many things is to do only one thing at once.

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by steran50 View Post
    HI,
    Yes, that is an Old Trick that Works well. Sorry if I sound like a Perfectionest, but when You use the Rope You should always Measure its Length both Before and After doing the Job. That way You will know if You have left any behind in the Engine or not (the piston can chop the rope off in a port).
    I made up a piston stop.

    Easy lathe project. Just use an old spark plug, knock out the centre, thread it and insert (or press in) a bolt with the head on the cylinder side reduced to the size of the plug hole.

    The ones you buy are much the same.

    Length should allow the plug stop to contact the piston crown at about 10 - 15 degress before TDC to put the least amount of strain on the bottom end and con rod.

    If you thread the bolt it can be adjusted to suit any depth compression spacing.

    Cheers

    Rob

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by nearnexus View Post
    I made up a piston stop.

    Easy lathe project. Just use an old spark plug, knock out the centre, thread it and insert (or press in) a bolt with the head on the cylinder side reduced to the size of the plug hole.

    The ones you buy are much the same.

    Length should allow the plug stop to contact the piston crown at about 10 - 15 degress before TDC to put the least amount of strain on the bottom end and con rod.

    If you thread the bolt it can be adjusted to suit any depth compression spacing.

    Cheers

    Rob
    Or talk to your local karting shop, we use them all the time when changing sprockets or removing clutches, but we use items made from a plastic material as they are less likely to damage the piston crown.

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gavin Newman View Post
    we use items made from a plastic material as they are less likely to damage the piston crown.
    The commercial ones for chainsaws etc are all steel.

    Piston crowns shouldn't deform from the pressures involved. Piston material is high silicon content aluminium and crowns are thick to take the pressures involved.

    It would be wise to round off any sharp end radius to prevent scoring though.

    Cheers

    Rob

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by nearnexus View Post
    The commercial ones for chainsaws etc are all steel.

    Piston crowns shouldn't deform from the pressures involved. Piston material is high silicon content aluminium and crowns are thick to take the pressures involved.

    It would be wise to round off any sharp end radius to prevent scoring though.

    Cheers

    Rob
    The scoring is the reason we use the soft stops.

  15. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gavin Newman View Post
    The scoring is the reason we use the soft stops.
    Sounds like a good idea.

    I suppose you could do the same thing making your own by using a press in aluminium centre in your spark plug.

    Should do the trick.

    Cheers

    Rob

  16. #15
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    A lot of those old Victa motors have a small bolt in the bottom of the crankcase. With that removed you can insert a screwdriver or piece of steel rod to stop rotation while you loosen nuts top and bottom.

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