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12th February 2013, 10:16 PM #1Senior Member
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Waldown 8" Series II Grinder tart up x 2
Last week I picked up two Waldown 8" grinders. One is a standard bench grinder and the other is a "carbide" grinder with the end mounted tables. The carbide grinder comes complete with an Art Deco cast iron stand. They weigh a ton and very nicely made.
As soon as I got them home I stripped them down ready for a caustic bath, fresh paint and a set of new bearings.
The Carbide grinder will need a few little jobs done to get it back to as new. One set of pivot bolts are worn and one of the tables has a flat spot.
Cheers
Piers
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12th February 2013 10:16 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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13th February 2013, 08:37 AM #2GOLD MEMBER
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- Jul 2010
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13th February 2013, 05:12 PM #3Senior Member
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Low spot
Cheers Stuart,
I should have said low spot. The grinder came from CMI in Ballarat and I am guessing was used in production so one side is worn down. I will try and get into the shed tonight and measure how much needs to come off to clean it up.
I will be painting them in the original Waldown colour. Does anyone have a colour code or do I need to have it matched? I have spray painted my car in the past, but are not sure What type of paint I should use? Automotive?
Cheers
Piers
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13th February 2013, 05:52 PM #4Senior Member
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- Jul 2012
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- Griffith NSW
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- 257
Ive got a feeling the grinding wheel that came with it is probably due a dressing...just a hunch though
As for paint, id hit it with 2pack. Its the most chemical resistent coating thats readily available. If youve already been painting cars, then youve had the practise.
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13th February 2013, 06:41 PM #5
Hi Piers,
Nice score, should be a good addition to the workshop, and looks like they will clean up well. I have a soft spot for Waldown stuff..
I did a Waldown drill press with 2 pack acrylic, this one.. Salcomix - 729/732 TPC-ACR and it has been pretty durable so far.
I got the paint place to do a colour match to the inside of the belt cover, If you scout around your machine and see if you can find a decent patch of original paint and then get them to match your colour to that.
The 2 pack acrylic has some nasty isocyanates in it so you'll need good ventilation and masks.
Regards
Ray
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13th February 2013, 10:55 PM #6Senior Member
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- May 2011
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- Castlemaine
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- 144
Low spot
Thanks guys for the paint info. I will need to do some research as I have only used the old thinners based paint.
tonight I investigated the low spots. One of them turns out to be created by a high spot on the edge of the table. They are out by 0.35 to 0.42mm so I will give them a skim in the mill before grinding them on a friends surface grinder.
I also removed the aluminium switch plates prior to the paint striping in a caustic bath. To do this I turned up a stubby 1.9mm diameter punch to push them out from the inside of the housing.
cheers
Piers
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14th February 2013, 04:52 PM #7Senior Member
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- Oct 2008
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- Wimmera
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- 51
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- 363
Hi Piers
if you look here
I have restored a waldown the same as yours
I painted mine with industrial enamel which is what a i also painted my mill with
2 pack i great but you need to spay it away from anything you dont want paint overspray on
cos this stuff floats for miles and stick like s#$t to a blanket dont ask me how I know
cheers
Harty
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14th February 2013, 04:57 PM #8
I would also recommend a good quality Industrial Enamel (ie Solver Line 349) and improve performance further by adding an isocyanate based cross-linking additive (ie Solver DryAdd).
Much easier to apply than a 2pack automotive Urethane/Acrylic system, good build up and very good mechanical properties. Should be cheaper too.
Haymes and Protec have equivalent products to the Solver ones mentioned above.
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14th February 2013, 05:22 PM #9
dsc_9506-600_595.jpg
I remember being intrigued by this picture.... I knew something was different from standard... but then Peter explained it
Seeing Piers machine reminded me...
Regards
Ray
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14th February 2013, 05:35 PM #10Senior Member
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- May 2011
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- Castlemaine
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- 144
Harty,
your grinder looks great. The Waldown and On-Off plates look like new! Are replacements available or do you have a trick to clean them up?
Cheers
Piers
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14th February 2013, 07:01 PM #11Senior Member
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- Oct 2008
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- Wimmera
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Hi Piers
I re manufactured the plates they are printed onto a coating on the aluminium as my plates where toast
i have a spare set if you would like them but they say single phase not 3 phase and as ray was eluding to the on and off is reversed from your machine I did this to match another grinder i have so when you go oh bugger the reaction to switch off the machine is the same
cheers
Harty
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14th February 2013, 07:50 PM #12Senior Member
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- May 2011
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- Castlemaine
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Harty,
Thanks for the offer of the plates. I will see how well mine clean up.
Cheers
Piers
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15th February 2013, 12:27 PM #13Product designer retired
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- Nov 2006
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- Heidelberg, Victoria
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- 79
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- 2,251
Re-manufactured name plates
harty69.
Please describe how you remade the Waldown name plates. Obviously you had to come up with the artwork first. What did you use for that?
I'm guessing, but did you just use your printer onto aluminium. I've tried that, but the ink did not dry, it smudged.
Ken
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15th February 2013, 02:00 PM #14Senior Member
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- Oct 2008
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- Wimmera
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- 51
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- 363
Hi ken
I made the art work by scanning the damaged plate as a rough template then recreated the artwork and text in adobe illustrator
the printing is not direct onto the aluminium its a dye sublimation process where you print dye based inks onto a special carrier paper the heat press onto the aluminium once the dye reaches 180 deg it vaporizes and transfers onto a special coating on the aluminium
whats cool is it even transfers through plastic if you forget to remove the protective sheet off the metal
the only down side is you dont get quite as strong a colour cos the backing is not white its aluminium so it looks a little dull still a lot better than a dented up plaque
you can get flatbed printers that will print directly on to just about any surface but i dont have one of those yet as they costs from $180,000 to $400,000 for a decent one
cheers
Harty
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15th February 2013, 02:53 PM #15SENIOR MEMBER
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- Oct 2008
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- N.W.Tasmania
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- 703
Apologies in advance for the thread hijack Piers037, but I'm just wondering Fred, if the paint you have recommended in the quote above, would also be a good choice to paint the inside of a container which I plan to use as a workshop. I would like something pretty tough, resistant to the usual sorts of workshop chemicals, solvents, coolants oils and greases etc, and able to be applied with a brush or roller. I had been considering using Jotun Hardtop AS, a 2 pack polyurethane, but at $600 or thereabouts to paint the container, it is more than I can justify for the job. I have no idea of the cost of the Solver paint required, but it would be around 130 square metres in total, with present paint being generally in good shape,(It is I believe an epoxy topcoat) but just too dark and dingy, and I wish to brighten things up a bit.
Congratulations on the new arrivals Piers037, with a bit of TLC, they will come up like new and well and truly justify the time and effort taken
Rob
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