Thread: waldown NH3 parts required

Originally Posted by jhovel

drilled at 24000rpm.

do I really need a drill press that goes to 24000 rpm?...maybe not...I can see me breaking lots of drills

"Closer examination found the missing drill bit almost entirely embedded in my finger. Never felt a thing. I pulled it out - still no sensation....."


See Joe, acupuncture is painless.

I suspect that your drilling setup is not rigid enough for those small drill bits. The material will deflect slightly and "ping" its gone.


Roger

How much runout is in that chuck Joe? I think you will need a good keyless chuck if you want to drill small holes. By the way, why do you want to drill 0.1mm holes anyway, I have been "In the trade" for over 40 years and have never needed to drill anything that small.

Lex.

Back from the other side of the globe....
To answer a couple of questions - even though late . No, I don't need to drill holes THAT small, but I intend to drill or resize carby jets with very small holes and ream them. Mostly the other small holes will be in printed circuit boards and 24000rpm is certainly not excessive for very small holes, though I will probably rarely turn up the wick that much as a rule.
The drill chuck in this drill has no runout I can measure at the 1/8" shank size that these little drills have. The 0.9mm long drill I used has no runout either that I could feel or see (not measured). The drill itself is designed for very small holes and exceedingly rigid. However, a look under the microscope showed some of the drills in this (cheap) kit astonishingly poorly sharpened, some with no clearance angle some not symetrical. You get what you pay for....
In any case, I'm very happy with the performance of this drill press.

Just to keep the related information together in one thread.
Today I had a circlip break on the Waldown NH fr unknown reasons.
That required me to pull the spindle out.
So here is a photo of my spindle and downfeed as an exploded view in large scale for detail.
My spindle has two AC bearings back to back and a strong spring providing the preload. Interesting.
The replacement circlip is the little one just near the chuck. The parts are laid out in the order they go together.
It's all back together now and working nicely.
To get it out all that was required was loosening the grub screw which holds the lift spring housing in position, unwinding that carefully until the spindle dropped and then a little more to ensure no tension on the spring. The pulling the sping and housing off the the downfeed spindle.
Next pull the downfeed spindle out of the head casting. The spindle may then fall down - careful. That's it. Chuck off, pull actual spindle for inspection and photo. regrease, reassemble, fit new circlip, refit chuck, reistall. Done.
Spindle.jpg

Originally Posted by jhovel

Just to keep the related information together in one thread.
Today I had a circlip break on the Waldown NH fr unknown reasons.
That required me to pull the spindle out.
So here is a photo of my spindle and downfeed as an exploded view in large scale for detail.
My spindle has two AC bearings back to back and a strong spring providing the preload. Interesting.
The replacement circlip is the little one just near the chuck. The parts are laid out in the order they go together.
It's all back together now and working nicely.
To get it out all that was required was loosening the grub screw which holds the lift spring housing in position, unwinding that carefully until the spindle dropped and then a little more to ensure no tension on the spring. The pulling the sping and housing off the the downfeed spindle.
Next pull the downfeed spindle out of the head casting. The spindle may then fall down - careful. That's it. Chuck off, pull actual spindle for inspection and photo. regrease, reassemble, fit new circlip, refit chuck, reistall. Done.
Spindle.jpg

where on earth did you find all my parts...lol...or did you have them and wasnt going to tell me

pic saved for future