Thread: Waldown Pedestal Drill Questions

Please post some pics. Thanks.

Stuart,
From the pictures in one of the earlier posts (and the discussion), I think there are two issues. One is a tooth broken from the feed shaft/pinion, and the other is the JT on the drill spindle.
The pinion can be remade, the spindle can probably be reshaped (ground or turned) so that it functions. Neither part is likely to be cast as the strength is unlikely to be there.

Keltrader, from an earlier post you asked what a fortune was. Last time I priced one a normal Waldown drill press (new) was around $1200 I think. The type being discussed here is probably closer to $2000+. You can feel the difference between one of these and a cheaper import. While they don't come up second hand very often they are worth grabbing as the are solid as all get out, last for ever and 9 times out of 10 can be repaired easily. (Ted's issues qualify as an easy repair, as it's 'just' a matter of fitting good parts)

Michael

Hi Michael,
Bad wording on my part, thanks
The "quill" is made of cast?
What I was getting at is that if the part the feed shaft/pinion drives is made of cast, I'd guess the feed shaft/pinion isn't made from anything special, what would be the point? If it was made of something special wouldn't the cast(assuming its made from cast) have broken instead?(although the other gear is a rack so would be stronger?)

Stuart

Geez all this activity to catch up on.
The JT, after a second look I believe must be a a JT6. It has picked up on a band around the middle section, the taper looks ok either side, I'm thinking of just getting a new chuck probably a cheapie to start with, coat the inside with bearing blue, insert the taper and carefully file down the ridge to fit, I'm thinking there's enough good taper left to get by.
The pinion I can either set it up so the 2 wonky teeth are at the start of the travel and lose a 1/2" or so of travel or maybe try a tyro's fix of sticking the broken bit on with JB Weldand filling the worn sections with JB Stick and set it up at the end of travel where it wouldnt get much use maybe it would hold, this would be to get it going until a proper repair.
I could also use a bit of JB Weld on the JT taper, fill the low spots and carefully file to fit, that's what I'm thinking
Ted

Ted, I wouldn't bother with JBweld, it's just not strong enough for a tooth - and when it breaks into little bits, they will float around in the grease. If you are as good at filing as you sound, I would build up the broken tooth with a welding bead and file it to shape (maybe start with a small grinding disc in a Dremel-type tool first). Since its a straight profile, that shouldn't be too hard. The ponion spondle is likely to be just bright mild steel - file it on a corner, if it files easily, you will be OK.
You should be able to relieve the 'picked up" center section of the chuck taper and fit the chuck again - maybe with a little Locktite to be sure.

Joe

Hi Joe,
About the locktite, I thought there needed to be clearance between the parts for locktite to work? Wouldnt the taper squeeze all the locktite out?

Stuart

Stuart, My understanding was always that the fewer molecules of Locktite in the gap the better...
From the datasheet:

LOCTITE® 609 is designed for the bonding of cylindrical fitting parts. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces and prevents loosening and leakage from shock and vibration. Typical applications include rotor to shafts in fractional and subfractional horsepower motors. Locks bushings and sleeves in housings on shafts. Augments press fits.

Joe

Hi Joe,
Thanks for that, maybe I'm confusing it with superglue or epoxy or who knows what. Now I just have to forget "loctite needs blah blah thickness blah blah"

Stuart

Originally Posted by Stustoys

Hi Joe,
Thanks for that, maybe I'm confusing it with superglue or epoxy or who knows what. Now I just have to forget "loctite needs blah blah thickness blah blah"

Stuart

Hi Stuart,

You might have been thinking of that specially made turcite/araldite 6 thou interface film...

Regards
Ray

...or silver soldering?

Joe

Found it. Harold Halls Dividing. He glues the bearing into his dividing head with epoxy and leaving 0.05mm clearance for the film. (a little on the thin side it seems)

My brain is useless some times, confusing those two.

Stuart

Loctite that's a good suggestion I didn't think of that, I would go for the weak grade e.g. 222, a stronger grade could make it a devil to get off in future.
Ted

If you are as good at filing as you sound

Just thinking out loud I'm really not very good at filing.