Thread: Waldown radial drill - parts needed.

Originally Posted by Michael G

Dave, a split bush may be tricky as it's going to be 63mm long with a wall section of something like 1.6mm (although you might be lucky and find an Al tube of the right size).
I think that pipeclay's line line of thought may be better - make up a solid bush, weld it top and bottom in the pulley and then bore to the correct size. Use a hacksaw and file to reclaim access to the keyway.
Richo says he has a Hercus so should be able to rebore the pulley.

Michael

PS - Richo - which part of SA are you in - it helps to know who may be able to assist.

I did think about filling the hole with aluminium filled epoxy and then reboring.
However, I am dubious about my ability to cut a good keyway
Location is Black Forest

Originally Posted by RayG

So, what about using two of the option 2 pulleys? replace both ends.

Regards
Ray

Good thinking Ray.
Richo, how do you loosen & tighten the belt to change speeds? It's not obvious from the photos.
It's pleasing to see this machine being cared for.

Originally Posted by nadroj

Just curious - Were the Waldown spare parts expensive?

Jordan

I think the parts were expensive:
Return spring $69 + GST
Dial $48 + GST
Pulley $254 + GST
I would not have paid this much to repair/restore an "ordinary" bench drill - even an 8SN
However, the radial drill is a bit special due to head and table rotation capability plus large distance between drill and column. Drill feed of 100mm is pretty useful as well.

Originally Posted by Bryan

Good thinking Ray.
Richo, how do you loosen & tighten the belt to change speeds? It's not obvious from the photos.
It's pleasing to see this machine being cared for.

Well unfortunately there is no belt tensioning device - not sure if there ever was one.
Speed change is achieved by forcibly derailing the belt - not the best idea and probably the reason why the motor pulley is now loose on the shaft

Richo,
my Waldown NH drill has a similar motor mount to yours, but there is a hinged base plate that the motor is mounted on. That plate is movable with a threaded rod and the tension is set there.
Hope that helps.
I suspect BT has some detailed photos somewhere how Waldown implemented this on the radial drill version.
Joe

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

I don't know if any of this applies. Is the broaching of a new keyway an issue if a complete new oversize bush was installed in the pulley? Whilst the example shown in this link is cast iron, a similar modification could apply to your aluminium pulley if there is sufficient aluminium enabling a rebore.

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/pu...cation-130493/

BT

I'd love to do this mod - but I don't have any tooling for broaching the keyway

I've got a shaper. Haven't used it for a keyway yet, but it shouldn't be too hard. Just need to make up a 'poke' tool. I'll practice on something else, promise. So consider that an option.

Originally Posted by richo132

I'd love to do this mod - but I don't have any tooling for broaching the keyway

Hi Richo
I have the broaching for that size but sadly am a bit far away. I guess that could be put under the heading of 'useless information'. Unless you would like to post your pulley to me and I can post it back again all broached and ready to go.
Let me know if this helps.

Phil

Originally Posted by jhovel

Richo,
my Waldown N8 drill has a similar motor mount to yours, but there is a hinged base plate that the motor is mounted on. That plate is movable with a threaded rod and the tension is set there.
Hope that helps.
I suspect BT has some detailed photos somewhere how Waldown implemented this on the radial drill version.
Joe

I had been thinking about making up a hinged plate and using a sort of scissor mechanism with over centre locking action for tension. This would be quick to operate however the threaded rod idea would better accommodate variation in belt length due to dissimilar pulleys.
I'd appreciate seeing a photo of your tensioner if you care to post it.
Would be even better to see pics of an original mechanism for a radial drill....

To Bryan and Steamwhisperer, thanks very much for kind offers of assistance.
Knowing this help is available, I'll practice making and inserting a bush.
(I'm a self taught amateur on the lathe and have only tackled simple jobs)

Originally Posted by RayG

Just a thought,

...
So, what about using two of the option 2 pulleys? replace both ends.

Regards
Ray

That's certainly an option to keep in the back pocket.
It doesn't preserve my speed range but does solve the belt length problem.

You could contact the seller of this drill:
Waldown URN 2MT radial drill - Machinery and Equipment for sale - dinkos.com.au
and ask for some photos of the belt tensioner arrangements.
Happy to send you photos of mine of course.
Joe

Originally Posted by jhovel

Richo,
my Waldown N8 drill has a similar motor mount to yours, but there is a hinged base plate that the motor is mounted on. That plate is movable with a threaded rod and the tension is set there.
Hope that helps.
I suspect BT has some detailed photos somewhere how Waldown implemented this on the radial drill version.
Joe

Joe,

The photo of the Utility Radial Drill in Waldown's 1993 brochure shows a different motor mount casting to the Richo's. The later casting supports the belt guard but I can't determine whether any belt tensioner is incorporated into it's design. The first photo below is of a recent version of the drill similar to the brochure photo.

The 3M tensioner is a simple over centre mechanism. Maybe something similar could be devised for the motor plate on Richo's.

BT

Originally Posted by richo132

To Bryan and Steamwhisperer, thanks very much for kind offers of assistance.
Knowing this help is available, I'll practice making and inserting a bush.
(I'm a self taught amateur on the lathe and have only tackled simple jobs)

Hi Richo
If you have any trouble I can bore and bush for you as well.

Phil