Thread: Another Waldown - this time a tart up.

Last week's fooling around with the motor for the drill revealed another problem. The motor mounting bracket's two sliding bars had been mutilated because someone thought that it would be an improvement to drill a locating hole in each bar. The pair of 1/4" BSW threaded holes provided for the bar locking bolts had been stripped and the bolts simply served as pegs in the holes.

I thought that I could simply swap the motor mount from another beater Waldown head that I have but the bars on that head were 3/4" whereas the GS head accommodates 18mm bars. I had some 3/4" 4140 which I turned down to 18mm. I then cut the 1/2" UNF thread. Rather than fool around setting up the 13 in the horizontal mode, I used an end mill in the horizontal spindle to cut the flats on the bars.

I drilled out the lock bolt holes insitu with my Makita and tapped them to accommodate 5/16" BSW thumb screws. I'm taking a punt on the thumb screws. Whether they can maintain their hold on the rods when the motor belt is tensioned is questionable. It they can they will be an improvement over a couple of bolts. The casting is pretty thin in that location so I will have to be careful if the thumb screws need to be replaced with bolts.

To prevent marring of the bars and at the location of the third thumb screw, the pinion, I decided to modify the the screws with the installation of a brass insert. I turned and tapped a little collar from some 1214. With the screw installed from the rear, I drilled a 5mm hole and parted off some brass rod to suit. After a bit of sump oil blackening I Loctited the brass in place.

These modifications should avoid the nasty galling that was evident on the old motor mount bars. Whilst the depth stop is extremely basic in comparison to the 3M, the brass tipped screw performs it's clamping duty no better and no worse than than the steel tipped screw. It is possible to pull the quill past the clamped stop. Certainly not the case with the 8SN or the 2 and 3Ms with their vastly superior depth stop arrangements.

BT

Bob, I shall be back in the Southern Hemisphere in a week or so, and I plan to construct the mother of all crates to ship your bounty to you. Want me to take tweny minutes with the Biax and scrape your Waldown table flatish?

Gregish

Originally Posted by Greg Q

Want me to take tweny minutes with the Biax and scrape your Waldown table flatish?

Gregish

Hi Gregish, can I payish you NOT to scrapish Bob's waldown table, I don't want to have to start scraping everything in sight just to keep things up to BT standards.... it's hard enoughish as it is..... ... ish...

Regards
Ray

Wellsh, as Tom Jones used to croon, I am open to offers. It's not unusual to be bribed at any time, la la la lah la la

The gratuitous scraping should become the signature of Scrape'11 and Scrape'12 alumni. Why wax your car when you can give it that exclusive (exclusif, non?) half moon pattern? Bentley should be so lucky.

Not that I plan to half moon Bob's Waldown table. Something about gilding the lily springs to mind. Not even my Tai-Boga drill got flaking...but it does have scraped tables. It was the least I could do. And when you care enough to do your very least....

GQish

Hi Greg, I'm attaching a photo of what I refer to as "the Waldown Gang", it's owned by my friend with the Arboga lever press, d'ya think you could scrape the table flat on it? .

Have no fear... I could tank up on coffee and scrape that bagatelle to wirhin an inch of its life. But what means this "flat" of which you speak. Sounds like that may be extra

Originally Posted by Greg Q

Have no fear... I could tank up on coffee and scrape that bagatelle to wirhin an inch of its life. But what means this "flat" of which you speak. Sounds like that may be extra

Bagatelle??, isn't that some sort of cream filled French pastry?. It's a modular table with each drill having a section of cast iron base that bolts to the ones either side to gang up as many drills as you want, looks original. I saw something similar in an old McPherson's catalogue.

Nah, a bagatelle is the size of gem that is three notches below the minimum acceptable token in my house. But then my coven prides itself on its discernng standards.

I missed the actual drill heads in your photo...it deserves a remark, if at least to observe on the obvious evolution in Waldown drills.

I have shop scraped two drill press tables so far...they were both easy, since they were obviously originally well made items. Filling in the craters with epoxy/cast iron dust and making a corrosion removing pass pretty much fixed things up apart from the many tiny dings which were inconsequential.

I should note that so far I lack a surface grinder and so rely on my scrapers a lot more than I will once I get a grinder. After I scrape it in.

Originally Posted by Greg Q

Bob, I shall be back in the Southern Hemisphere in a week or so, and I plan to construct the mother of all crates to ship your bounty to you. Want me to take tweny minutes with the Biax and scrape your Waldown table flatish?

Gregish

Gregory,

I have a plan and it could save you 20 minutes. The Waldown table is about 9 1/2" x 10 3/4' . My Douglas shaper has a 10 1/2" maximum cutting stroke and 11" of table travel. With some imaginative clamping I might have it covered. I'll ease the table off the beater tomorrow and see if I have sufficient imagination.

BT

Oooh, cool. Can you mount a broad nosed cutter like a planer? My bandsaw table was planed, as was my Deckel, and I really like the surface.

Greg

Hi Bob,
Can you outline how you go about oil blackening? I know the thumb screws are pretty small but they look nice and evenly black. I have only used the forge for blackening so any tips with a torch would be appreciated.

Ewan

Originally Posted by Greg Q

Oooh, cool. Can you mount a broad nosed cutter like a planer? My bandsaw table was planed, as was my Deckel, and I really like the surface.

Greg

Me too. The planed Deckel tables are a delight.

Edit. Sorry Gregory. I didn't answer your question. To achieve the Deckelesque corrugations the shaper would need a coarse feed, coarser than I reckon the little Douglas is capable of.

BT

Originally Posted by Greg Q

Oooh, cool. Can you mount a broad nosed cutter like a planer? My bandsaw table was planed, as was my Deckel, and I really like the surface.

Greg

All good woodworking machinery is planed..it looks good and the tiny ridges cut friction wonderfully.

Ewan

Originally Posted by Ueee

Hi Bob,
Can you outline how you go about oil blackening? I know the thumb screws are pretty small but they look nice and evenly black. I have only used the forge for blackening so any tips with a torch would be appreciated.

Ewan

Hello Ewan,

I have tried a number of techniques, some work better than others. If the effect of heat on the steel is not a concern then simply heating the item to the point where it is bluish purple and quenching works best on polished or bright steel. I wasn't happy with my initial attempt today so I heated the screw to dull red before quenching it in well abused sump oil. The screw was jet black but with a rag the black burnt on oil coating could be rubbed off. What you see is the remaining uncoated finish.

Phil "Machtool"s scraper handles at the scrapefest were torch and oil finished and were impressive. The colouration was uniform. I will ask Phil to reveal his secrets.

I have tried a couple of alternatives. You might be interested in having a read. The Blackfast setup mentioned is easy and safe.

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/parkerizing-123864/

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/bl...cookup-124959/

I also use Birchwood Casey's Super Blue in a small container purchase from the neighbourhood gunsmith. Great for touching up small parts.

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Birchwood-Casey-PSP-Blue-Ounce/dp/B0025VWAS2/ref=pd_sim_sg_1"]Amazon.com: Birchwood Casey PSP Gun Blue (3 Ounce): Sports & Outdoors[/ame]


Hope this is of some help.

BT