Thread: Waldown Type 2M paint and rebuild as necessary

Hello Camo,

I read your post late last night, started a reply and then realized the photos I have posted of my 3M and that might have been of interest were scattered over a number of threads that often aren't titled with anything to do with Waldown. Finding them for me is a pain in the neck, next to impossible for someone else.

Your drill is in far better nick than mine was and you paid a third of what mine cost. The table on mine was nearly chain drilled in half necessitating the purchase of a new table from Waldown. Your table could be repaired easily enough.

As another member suggested in your other thread, download the parts diagram for the 2M from Waldown's website. Waldown probably still have some replacement parts for our old model drills.

Michael's drill is a more recent model and I dont know if there were changes in the quill design but if and when you dismantle the quill assembly take care of the thin shim washers that are used as spacers and bearing shields. They are easily damaged when trying to remove the circlips used to retain the bearings.

I will slip up the shed and take a few snapshots of my drill and post them here.

In my mind the 2M and 3M were Waldown's finest drills.

Bob

Chasing people off the forum is not our style....
(even if I can't find a pitchfork and torches graphic)

Michael

PS - Are you sure the handle is brass? It looks as if it might be nickel plated iron from you photo. It would still be old though

Here you go Camo,

I replaced all of the handles and capstan spokes with 316 stainless versions. The motor mount "toggle links" are stainless replacements. I didn't fit the toggle springs, belt tension holds it all in place. I purchased a new plastic handnut to replace the broken red Bakelite original. The few ball knobs on the drill were brown-red and unobtainable hence the black knobs. I replaced all the bearings. The intermediate eccentric mount was mutilated and the knurled locking lever absent. Made new replacements. The cast aluminium depth dial is new.

The drill was fitted with a 3 phase motor with a single speed pulley attached. I purchased the drill you see alongside as a motor and cone pulley donor. It was single phase.

The column was made presentable courtesy of my long bed lathe, wet and dry and Scotchbrite pads.

The colour is a pretty good match with the original but to my mind it should be satin. My dabbling with matting agent proved disappointing. The paint I used was spraying enamel. Takes forever to dry. Someone else might be able to suggest a better alternative. Ewan "Uwee" are you reading this? The hinged tin lid contacts the corner of the motor mount and chips the paint and also dents the lid. There is some filler in my lid.

The pinch bolts in the head casting facilitate adjustment to accommodate quill and casting wear. I still have some quill slop that I live with because I have other means of drilling more precise holes.

One word of caution. Be careful when you remove the pinion and disengage the quill rack. On the donor drill the quill fell out, fortunately landing on a plastic tool box and destroying it with no harm to the quill. The 2M has a more complicated heavier quill. Having the table in place is a good move.

These drills hark from a time when this country made some neat gear. Worth the effort to restore and a pleasure to use.

BT

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

Here you go Camo,

I replaced all of the handles and capstan spokes with 316 stainless versions. The motor mount "toggle links" are stainless replacements. I didn't fit the toggle springs, belt tension holds it all in place. I purchased a new plastic handnut to replace the broken red Bakelite original. The few ball knobs on the drill were brown-red and unobtainable hence the black knobs. I replaced all the bearings. The intermediate eccentric mount was mutilated and the knurled locking lever absent. Made new replacements. The cast aluminium depth dial is a new.

The drill was fitted with a 3 phase motor with a single speed pulley attached. I purchased the drill you see alongside as a motor and cone pulley donor. It was single phase.

The column was made presentable courtesy of my long bed lathe, wet and dry and Scotchbrite pads.

The colour is a pretty good match with the original but to my mind it should be satin. My dabbling with matting agent proved disappointing. The paint I used was spraying enamel. Takes forever to dry. Someone else might be able to suggest a better alternative. Ewan "Uwee" are you reading this? The hinged tin lid contacts the corner of the motor mount and chips the paint and also dents the lid. There is some filler in my lid.

The pinch bolts in the head casting facilitate adjustment to accommodate quill and casting wear. I still have some quill slop that I live with because I have other means of drilling more precise holes.

One word of caution. Be careful when you remove the pinion and disengage the quill rack. On the donor drill the quill fell out, fortunately landing on a plastic tool box and destroying it with no harm to the quill. The 2M has a more complicated heavier quill. Having the table in place is a good move.

These drills hark from a time when this country made some neat gear. Worth the effort to restore and a pleasure to use.

BT

Wow, that's a high bar you set, great job! Got excited when I saw the picture of the aluminum depth dial (I thought I might have a guage for depth under all the paint), then i read the post, was this a replacement part for the 3m or did you fabricate it?

thanks for the info on quill, I am normally over cautions when approaching a dismantle, but some things you just can't anticipate.

Do you remember if the bearings are readily available, and if they are costly (bearings seem to always be the big unknown with these older machines, and can really blow out a budget).

I think you are correct about the height adjusting handle (looked a bit darker last night, probably the first time my camera has got the colours right). My wife said it might also be rose gold.

Thanks,

camo

Hello Camo,

The depth dial was purchased new from the local Waldown distributor. The spindle bearings are 7205 single row angular contact bearings as per page 11 of the downloadable manual - http://www.brobo.com.au/pdf/3m_drill_manual.pdf

The pulley bearings, two different sized pairs, are also indicated on the drawing. There is variation in the accuracy of the 7205 bearings available and given the age of my drill and the quill wear I didn't opt for high precision -
nsk 7205 | eBay
There is a difference in the table crank handle between our drills apart from the gilded look of yours. Mine does not have the hex nut. My handle had been welded to its shaft I imagine because the set screw had fallen out.

BT

Camo, it looks as if you have the depth dial already (second photo I think). You just need to get the paint off. For softening paint my favourite recipe is a 50:50 mix of turps and metho. A part like that you could soak in a container of the stuff (to strip the larger parts, soak some paper towel and wrap that around perhaps)

Michael

Hi all,

Well the depth dial is soaking in the 50:50 mix (thanks Michael for the tip), for some reason when BT was talking about his gauge being new I thought that the original didn't have a gauge, and it was just a dust cover (so I am crossing my fingers to see what appears when the paint comes off).

BT thanks for the info on the bearings, I read the manual for the 3M, but I didn't realise the 2M & 3M would have the same bearings.

cheers,

camo

Hi Camo,

They could well be different, we'll find out when you dismantle your quill assembly. Brobo Waldown may be able to provide you with details of the bearings used in the 2M.

With regards to the age of the drill, the 2M appears in McPhersons' 1966 catalogue but not in the 1960 publication. Someone else may be able to shed more light on the subject.

Bob.

Well it's one of those good news, bad news scenarios. Good news is I have learnt another paint stripping mix, bad news, I was right and there is no guage around the outside (purely a dust cover for the spring).

image.jpgimage.jpg


Cheers,

Camo

Shouldn't be too hard to engrave/ scribe that - although you probably haven't got a dividing head (not much call for them with wood).
See what a new one will cost you. If it's horrible to contemplate then send me a PM and I can put some divisions on it for you (Unless there is some one closer that is willing?)
From comparing notes with other users I think (not sure) that the difference between a 2M and a 3M is just the spindle socket (one being a no. 2 Morse, the other being a no. 3)

Michael

Originally Posted by Michael G

Shouldn't be too hard to engrave/ scribe that - although you probably haven't got a dividing head (not much call for them with wood).
See what a new one will cost you. If it's horrible to contemplate then send me a PM and I can put some divisions on it for you (Unless there is some one closer that is willing?)
From comparing notes with other users I think (not sure) that the difference between a 2M and a 3M is just the spindle socket (one being a no. 2 Morse, the other being a no. 3)

Michael

Michael,

That is a truly generous offer. I will see what I can do at my end first, hopefully between getting a price on replacement, and ask friends and family for help (if it was made of timber, I would be sorted), I will have a solution, but I truly appreciate your offer.

Cheers,


Camo