Thread: Waldown Type 8SN Series III Rebuild

I can't read the drawings, is it possible to swap/convert to a MT Spindle?

Just a thought.

Hi Ray,
I have a similar set up on my old heavy Taiwanese drill I picked up for free a few years back. The end of the spindle was bent as well as being scored from the chuck spinning, so I mounted it in the lathe a cleaned it up until it ran true. I was lucky it had a bit of room for the chuck to go up higher without any clearance problems.
While I was at it I thought I had nothing to loose, so bored the chuck while I had the taper set up on the lathe to clean up the scoring, it all turned out fine and it now runs great. The chuck was a Jacobs so it was worth saving.

Dave

watching with great interest Ray!
I haven't taken the spindle out of the Servian yet - it's now in daily use instead of being restored.....

Joe

Originally Posted by Tankstand

I can't read the drawings, is it possible to swap/convert to a MT Spindle?

Just a thought.

Hi Tankstand, Nice idea, but I'm pretty sure the diameter of the shaft is a bit too small, maybe MT1 might fit, but I think I'll just clean it up leave it as JT6.

Hi Dave, I think I'll do the same, stick it on the lathe and that way I can make sure the taper is running true to the spindle bearings.

Regards
Ray

Originally Posted by jhovel

watching with great interest Ray!
I haven't taken the spindle out of the Servian yet - it's now in daily use instead of being restored.....

Joe

Hi Joe,
I almost did the same! But on reflection, decided that Anorak Bob's pictures will haunt me forever if I don't do a proper number on it...

And I don't have a garden shed full of waldown parts..

Regards
Ray

Ray,

If it is of any use to you I can send you a spindle that has the extended female 2 Morse taper nose. I just replaced the bearings in my garden shed economy model. I encountered a problem with the replacement NSK thrust bearing. It would not fit so I ended up re-using the existing bearing that appeared to be in good condition. The ball bearings on my spindle are NSK 6003Zs. If yours are the same the thing should fit.

Let me know if you are interested. The spines are in good nick.

Take note of the position of all the shims when you remove the bearings.

BT

p.s. I hadn't read your last post when I typed mine. The garden shed trove has proven handy.

Hi BT,

Thanks for the generous offer, I'll think I'd like to take you up on that. A MT2 taper is much more useful.

There are three bearings, top and bottom are GMN 6003, and there is a open thrust bearing, a Hoffman XLM18 between the two AC bearings (at least that's what they look like..) The shims are two different sizes, one for the outer, and one for the inner, and I expect they determine the preload..

The only thing keeping the bearing stack together is a circlip? so I guess the axial loading would be limited by whatever that could take. Radial runout is not as critical as it would be on a mill or lathe, but that's no reason to not do it right...

I seriously need to re-stock the garden shed...

Regards
Ray

Ray,

I will send you over the tubular bearing driver oner I made up this afternoon. Can't see that I will need it again.

The shims are extremely delicate. On the machine I am tarting up there was a small diameter shim between the bearing and the circlip. On the donor machine that shim was absent but there were two large diameter shims between the thrust bearing upper race and the upper ball bearing.

The bearings are a press fit. It is difficult to ascertain whether the preload is correct. I adjusted my bearings with a steel drift and a small hammer after driving them on. They feel O.K.

Your drill has a pinch bolt enabling you to take up some of the quill wear, mine does not. I'm happy enough to have replaced the bearings and I will accept that there is some play.

I will post the gear off to you on Friday.

BT

Hi All,

The MT2 spindle arrived during the week, my grateful thanks to BT,

I promise to stop making comments about your garden shed henceforth! .. . Seriously it will make for a much more versatile machine being able to use MT drills.. thanks again.

I got to do a bit of cleaning up on the base and table, the machined surfaces were cleaned with scotchbrite scouring pads and a random orbital sander wit a bit of lanox as lubricant.

Before cleaning, it was just solid rust, after cleaning you could see the original machining marks nicely... I'm trying not to overclean, but just get rid of the rust, and scotchbrite pads do the job nicely.



Stripping the paint is done with a wire brush on an angle grinder, if anyone cares to do this, make sure you have a full shield face mask, bits of wire fly off every now and then..



As I go I'm just giving a quick lick of galmet primer, next few coats will be 3M spray putty and a bit of sanding, before I get to colour later on.






Any recommendations for type of paint? I'm thinking enamel, should I be looking at a 2 part epoxy?

It will have to be mixed to get the colour match right to the Waldown colour anyway.

Regards
Ray

You are making progress Ray. I used spraying enamel that I had mixed at an auto paint place nearby. I can remember the colour being called Teal on the comprehensive fan deck that I used to match the paint on the inside of the belt guard. Problem is I don't remember who produced the fan deck.

I have an RAL fan deck and I can't find a standard colour that matches the Waldown colour.

The colour I had mixed turned out to be very close to the colour of the new table I bought though that has a hammertone finish. The photos I have posted of the 3M show the blue to be quite bright. It is not in real life. I had wanted a satin rather than gloss finish. My experiments with matting agents have been unsuccessful. Looked like I was spraying down at the beach in a howling sea breeze. The inside of the garden shed drill's belt cover is shiny, that satin exterior is most probably the result of exposure to a workshop environment. The 3M was a gaudy metalflake green when I found it.

BT

Edit. The spraying enamel has worked well. The painted surfaces on a drill are out of harm's way so a less durable finish than 2 pack is fine. I used Spies Hecker 2 pack on some of my lathe parts. It chips off.

Hi BT,

I'm thinking enamel might be best, I'll suss out the paint guy and see what overpriced concoction he can offer..

Got a couple more bits cleaned up, here's the before and after pictures of the handles.



And after a session on the bench grinder with the soft wheel.



Regards
Ray

For painting machines I find that the Wattyl Kilrust range are very good. I've had it on my lathe and a previous mill and it seems un affected by oil, dries hard and if you pick the right colour there is even a spray can for touch ups. Another good thing is that primer (on well prepared surfaces) is optional.

Michael

Originally Posted by RayG

Hi BT,

I'm thinking enamel might be best, I'll suss out the paint guy and see what overpriced concoction he can offer..

Got a couple more bits cleaned up, here's the before and after pictures of the handles.

And after a session on the bench grinder with the soft wheel.



Regards
Ray

Nice Ray.

My shed's open eaves cause me endless grief as a result of condensation and corrosion. In an effort to reduce some of the grief I replaced all the 3M handle shafts with 316 stainless steel. You won't have that problem. A swipe of oil and those pretty things will remain pristine.

BT

Edit. When I refurbished my little Tough drill I cleaned up the machined surface of the base with my 10 inch Douglas. Both my Waldown bases have the usual battle scaring. Sadly they are too big for the shaper. Your's isnt.

Michael,

I've found White Knight rattle can paint to be pretty durable. I imagine the Wattyl product would be much the same. I've also found that enamel applied directly to cast iron tends to be more durable than that applied over primer.

Hi BT,

Any thoughts on how to approach repairing the table, I'm thinking of machining some slots and putting in cast iron inserts.

I realise it's just cosmetic, but then again, this rebuild is as much about trying to get somewhere near the condition the machine would have been in when it left the factory as anthing else..

As for painting enamel direct over cast iron, some parts that I've stripped were just that, and other parts have red oxide primer. One thing that stands out so far, is the complete lack of filler, I think every Chinese casting I've stripped has always had lots of filler, and some porosity, not the good old Australian made Waldown, no filler here..

Regards
Ray