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24th May 2014, 07:24 PM #31SENIOR MEMBER
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Thanks Bob.
Though I would like to think you got the welding rod idea from me.
Phil
Alex engineering tool Trailer (9).JPG
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24th May 2014 07:24 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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24th May 2014, 09:03 PM #32.
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Could be. I don't know who it was but they work well.
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25th May 2014, 10:57 PM #33
I have also posted this idea!
Dean
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20th August 2015, 11:16 AM #34.
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The washing machine pump I have been using as a coolant pump as shown in the thread has started to leak.
What happens is it pumps fine for about 5 minutes and then develops a very slow weep around the rubber seal between two major plastic parts of the pump.
The long it goes the more it leaks.
When I turn it off the leak eventually stop but if the pump has been run for 20-30 minutes it takes a longer to stop weeping so that it eventually dumps a couple of litres of lube/coolant on the shed floor. i.e. not nice.
My take on this is that the pump gets hot (well at least warm) and that expands the plastic body parts so the seal is imperfect. Longer running means longer cool down.
I have tried vaseline without success and as a last resort I was thinking of packing the seal with something like Silicone or ???
Failing that I was thinking about a cheap windscreen washer motor
eg http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-PA...item2ee089cad9
There are cheaper ones around but this one looks a bit more rugged that the cheapies.
What attracts me to this is that it is only 12V and specifically designed to pump small amounts
BUT
Anyone know if they can run continuously or are they made for only intermittent use?
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21st August 2015, 10:44 AM #35Senior Member
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- Apr 2009
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- Ballina N.S.W.
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- 371
Hi Bob
When I built a coolant system for my band saw a couple of years ago, I opted for a submersible fountain pump, similar to this one. So far it has worked perfectly, being submerged it does not get hot and it does not leak on the floor even if it did develop a leak.Could you adapt one into your system, they are fairly cheap.
Bob.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-800L-...rice&talgo=und
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21st August 2015, 10:57 AM #36.
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Thanks KF.
Earlier in the thread I describe how I first used a water feature pump, but on a bandsaw the very fine scarf (some of it is like flour) gets into the pump interior and sticks to the motor magnet and this gums up the pump. This does not happen on a lathe because there is much less of this fine scarf formed. I have tried with multiple magnets and filters but the pump still gummed up. This is why I went for a washing machine pump. I have a water feature pump on my lathe and it works fine - never had to to clean the magnets eve,
The washing machine pump is 240V and draws about 100W. The simple open frame pump motor is most likely very inefficient and runs hot. It has a fan and when then pump runs for more than about 5 minutes the pump itself starts to get hot.
It seems like the pump manufacturers designed it to run for just the time needed to pump out a washing machine.
Also on the washing machine pump the flow rate is high, the single pass through the pump (even with warn water) would help cool the pump down and there is minimal back pressure.
To prevent the pump haemorrhaging, in my setup I have around 5L of coolant cycling over and over inside the pump/tank under full flow but under some back pressure to drive some coolant out to the blade.
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21st August 2015, 12:00 PM #37SENIOR MEMBER
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- Feb 2015
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- Oz
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Gear pumps
I use one of these on my bandsaw:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12-v-385-...item28029f80b1
They are a gear pump so swarf doesn't come into contact with the magnetic rotor and gum the pump up.
They are only small but pump more than enough coolant for my use. I have a tap installed to restrict the flow, not sure of the head height or LPM but it's been working on my bandsaw for quite a while now with no problems.
Another alternative is an automotive fuel pump, I used one from an 80s model Gemini on my lathe for quite while, good output and good head height. Being made of steel it did rust a little but it didn't seem to affect it. Lost it in one of my many moves so moved onto the gear pump.
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22nd August 2015, 09:48 AM #38Member
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- Jul 2014
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- eindhoven the netherlands
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- 83
dishwasher pumps are designed to work continuously for longer periods, maybe they are better suited?
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22nd August 2015, 10:19 AM #39
For my mill, I've used a pump from a Jaycar camping shower powered by an el-cheapo 240 to 12v plug pack, all up $35. It's submersible and I've slipped it into a stocking to keep swarf out. Been using it for several years now with no problems.
The first step towards knowledge is to know that we are ignorant.
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22nd August 2015, 11:02 AM #40.
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22nd August 2015, 02:46 PM #41GOLD MEMBER
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- May 2003
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- Perth WA
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Bob,
I would be looking at a way of separating the fines from your coolant. I did this on a small mill and used a combination of coarse through flywire and fines through a settling tank. I have attached some old photos to show what I did.Cheers,
Rod
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22nd August 2015, 04:00 PM #42.
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Thanks Rod.
The way my coolant return works on the BS is it has to flow into a gutter and the up into a filter.
This means ~90% of the swarf settles out in the cutter and does not get to the filter.
The filter has 4 layers of fly wire and then a SS mesh that is even finer and finally 2 REE magnets in line with the flow, and one inside the tank itself,
From what I can see the stuff that gets through these filters is as fine or finer than flour as I cannot feel anything when I rub it between my fingers. It does not settle out of any liquid but seems to stay suspended probably to the oil indefinitely. Ot seems to build up on the scum at the top of the tank but eventually some gets inside the motor.
Like I said this is not a problem on the lathe coolant pump (which I have never had to clean) which I imagine is more like a mill - its just on the bandsaw.
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22nd August 2015, 08:51 PM #43GOLD MEMBER
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- May 2003
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- Perth WA
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Bob,
Should have known you had it covered already.Cheers,
Rod
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22nd August 2015, 10:28 PM #44
Hi Bob,
I am going through my bandsaw at the moment - a BS4A - which is only 20 months old and wondering why the bottom guide bearings were on the frittz.These were shielded bearings.
I know there some weight on them due to transfer of blade direction but they should not be on the point of failure after such a short time. So given that,your post is very timely.These are the bearings next to the downstream of the cut. Consequently the bearing cop the swarf ,especially so when I use the arm in the vertical position with the "plate".
I think I can now put the bearing failure down to the "flour".
I have an S bend with mesh inside ready to plumb into the coolant system with a neodibnium button magnets taped to the outside. The plan was to unscrew the coupling and empty the caught swarf periodically. A lathe coolant pump that was going to do double duty on lathe and bandsaw,but I don't think I"ll bother now and just use a submersible pump on the BS.
When I worked in the hardcrome industry I noticed that the centreless grinder employed a conveyor sytem to trap the powdery swarf that floated on the coolant across steps and what was caught was lifted up and over into the waste bin.
It worked well but looked complicated and expensive.
Maybe an S bend with a couple of neos taped to the od might work for you.
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23rd August 2015, 11:14 AM #45
Been thinking about a coolant pump my self and was wondering if one of these would be any good on a lathe and mill?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12V-DC-Al...item1ea2f4b34b
Ratty 05/2004 -05/07/2010 COOPER 01/08/1998-31/01/2012
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