Thread: Water Extraction from Airline

The pipes must have rust in them, air + water = rust. If the tanks rust the pipe will as they are in the same environment and tanks rust. if I were putting a system in today it would be in one of the poly pipe materials with all ready made fittings and dead easy to install.

Must admit, Poly Pipe was my first thought, but I guessed that it's pretty useless at providing a temperature differential (particularly when compared to steel / galv steel) to facilitate water removal, so abandoned the idea.

Does that then lead full circle to an additional tank??? But that too is steel and therefore subject to rust!?!?

Is all this all theory or does it actually work? If we use galvanised steel pipe, does that avoid the issue and still provide an effective solution?

I'm somewhat confused.




Thx
Jon

The way I see it is that for home use, unless you are spray painting cars etc., there is no real need to cool the air before it reaches the receiver tank, as the amount of air being pumped through is minimal in comparison with industrial units, 150 l/pm against 1500 l/pm?
Kryn

If you decide to go the poly route they will advise you on all the issues associated with the installation. I thought installing pneumatic piping was easy until I spoke to someone who actually knew what they were talking about and that is where I learnt all about air speed supporting moisture and a lot of other stuff.

Originally Posted by ventureoverland

Must admit, Poly Pipe was my first thought, but I guessed that it's pretty useless at providing a temperature differential (particularly when compared to steel / galv steel) to facilitate water removal, so abandoned the idea.
Does that then lead full circle to an additional tank??? But that too is steel and therefore subject to rust!?!?
Is all this all theory or does it actually work? If we use galvanised steel pipe, does that avoid the issue and still provide an effective solution?
I'm somewhat confused.

Some galv pipe is not galved internally, and the ends of the pipes will have exposed iron so they will rust there.

The problem is not just the water, the trace amount of carbon dioxide and other oxides in the air are compressed and dissolve into the water forming a weak (carbonic) acid. This acid can also attack the galv over time.

If I had my choice again I would not use galv. I only used it because I already had a big bucket of FILs galv fittings and BSP dies.

At the end of the year I will be qualified currently studying cert 4 fluid power. The technical term is a "ringmain " and there are a host of calculations for the sizing and moisture removal. I will have a look at my text book see what I can find.

Originally Posted by nearnexus

when I drain the system, just slightly milky water.

probably cos your comp is old like me and you and spitting out lots of oil

Originally Posted by ventureoverland

Must admit, Poly Pipe was my first thought, but I guessed that it's pretty useless at providing a temperature differential (particularly when compared to steel / galv steel) to facilitate water removal, so abandoned the idea.

Does that then lead full circle to an additional tank??? But that too is steel and therefore subject to rust!?!?

Is all this all theory or does it actually work? If we use galvanised steel pipe, does that avoid the issue and still provide an effective solution?

I'm somewhat confused.




Thx
Jon

No you cant use poly pipe for your cooling as it will not conduct heat efficiently to get moisture removal

Poly pipe can be used after the moisture removal process

Galv and or steel pipe will work but as per the cons above.

Cu is better but dearer

if cost is a problem use steel and ensure you have a good filter to remove solids

Gawd, I can't believe the amount of discussion on what is a very basic concept and application.

I came up with this idea and put up a YouTube video on it quite a while back, and I suggest you at least read the viewer comments and visit the links in the video - it will tell you a lot.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ACPoyUM9yco

Originally Posted by nearnexus

Gawd, I can't believe the amount of discussion on what is a very basic concept and application.

I came up with this idea and put up a YouTube video on it quite a while back, and I suggest you at least read the viewer comments and visit the links in the video - it will tell you a lot.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ACPoyUM9yco

yep...i forgot you had that up

Why not just place a hydrogen filter on your pump inlet and just compress the oxygen.

Irrespective of what water condensation scheme is used, I reckon its better to get the water out of the system asap.

Originally Posted by nearnexus

Gawd, I can't believe the amount of discussion on what is a very basic concept and application.

I came up with this idea and put up a YouTube video on it quite a while back, and I suggest you at least read the viewer comments and visit the links in the video - it will tell you a lot.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ACPoyUM9yco

I watched this last night thanks for posting.

Only thing I noted is that you take the air from the tank to the pipes and then through the filter & regulator rather than go straight to the pipes from the compressor and then into tank and then onto regulator and trap as has been suggested.

I will be going with the steel / galv pipe arrangement as per the principles shown in your vid.

Thanks.


Thx
Jon

Copper conducts heat way quicker than steel so why is steel better?. A vertical copper coil which can be made very quickly will do way more than a length of steel pipe as long as it is done in 19mm but 25mm would be better.