Thread: Busted Screw- Help!

Bloody junk, I still have the same Taiwanese one I bought when I was 15 for my bikes.

I think I can see a little bit sticking up, RH top? Can you tap that bit sideways and up to loosen it up? To get it out it will need to be turned the opposite way that it was forced.

Dave

That broken tip should come out if you pry it up from one of the four slot ends . Try to get a thin lever under the broken tip from the side eg, where the cross slot end is

MIKE

You could try using the centre punch to loosen the grip the point has on the screw by lightly hitting the inner corners of the star,this hopefully will release the grip the point has.

If the screw was very soft the tip maybe in very tight.

Generally it is just friction that is holding it rather than burring or gauling.

You may only need to tap one of the corners to break the grip.

If after tapping it you see any movement you can then try your scriber or a strong magnet to remove it.

When you tap the inner points make sure that you have the centre punch facing towards the outside of the screw only,if it is vertical or leaning towards the centre it could jam the broken tip tighter.

Did you try before using the impact driver a suitable size phillips hit firmly with a hammer and then vice grips on the shank of the screw driver to remove,or did you just try normal hand pressure?

Boy that was quick! Thanks fellas. Will try prying first. If that fails I'll try to tap it out using PC's method.

I didn't try the screwdriver and vice grip method. I wish I had.
Dave, I had one when I was a kid too. It served me well on the HQ and numerous dirt bikes. Wish I knew where it went. I suppose I could just buy better quality tips and keep the driver.

Off to work, so will have to wait till tomorrow.

I am not sure how I still have mine with the amount of times I have caught my son with it. The Chinese/Tiawonese stuff from them days where pretty good quality as they where breaking into the market and trying to convince people, but these days they know they can get away with junk.

As Pipeclay said it cant be jambed in there to tight. The alloy always grows around the screws making them near impossible to get without a impact driver.

Dave

Yeah...Bunnings tools aren't suitable for this kind of thing. They are facsimilie tools better suited for father's day presents. Weld something onto the fastener.. Even if its only the welding rod...then use a pair of good vice grips on it.

In circunstances like these I use either a pneumatic rattle gun for larger fasteners (I got one from Aldi for $29.00 about 18 months ago and it has done a good job so far).
For smaller fasteners a cordless impact driver nearly always does the trick.
I reckon these cordless impact drivers have to be one of the best tools to come onto the wider market in the last few years.
If the screw head is damaged, dip the bit into some fine valve grinding paste to help it get a better grip.
Cheers,
Greg.

You could try a punch similar to a wad punch but without the sharp edge. The hole in the centre should be just smaller than the outside diameter of the head of the screw leaving clearance for the broken piece. A sharp hit will bounce the broken piece out of the screw. Make sure the crankcase isn't sitting on anything solid. Preferably get someone to hold it off the bench when you give it a hit.
Good luck

Phil

Out of the frying pan and into the fire.....

Thanks for the additional tips fellas. I wasn't able to get anything in to prise the busted tip out, so I tried dislodging it with a punch. Unfortunately it was jammed solid so I ground out the tip with a diamond coated tool in the Dremel. I was then able to drill out the head of the screw.

I then turned my attention to the other screw. I used the screwdriver + vice grip method without success. All that achieved was to tear the chrome off the shaft of the screwdriver.

So I grabbed a good quality Phillips head hex bit and fitted it into a socket with an extension shaft so I could apply some pressure to it. Then I used a small shifter on the hex bit to try and undo the screw. Guess what? That screwdriver bit busted too! Out came the Dremel and drill again and I removed the head of that screw too.

After much cursing I have the stator mounting plate removed from the bike (undamaged) but now I have 2 "studs" to remove from the crankcase. I'm guessing they are 4mm diameter. Given that they are both jammed in so tight they were able to break the tips off TWO screwdriver bits, I doubt an Easy-Out would be strong enough to remove them.

I have no idea Yamaha use to tighten these screws up with and I cant believe they didn't use socket head screws instead of Phillips head. I'm about ready to douse the bike in petrol and put a match under it.

I would appreciate any advice on removing the remains of the 2 screws.

Chris

Hi Chris,

Not sure I can help much, I might be able to lend you a box of matches...

I doubt I can think of anything that you wouldn't already thought of yourself.

What about drilling the screws out, drill maybe 3.5mm and re-tap, or if things go from bad to worse ( sorry ..even worse) you could drill a larger size and use helicoil.

Hot and cold, heat the whole thing a bit, then zap the bolt with instant freeze, works sometimes..

If it's an expensive part there is always edm. EDIT... this was linked to from PM http://pico-systems.com/edm.html

Regards
Ray

What about trade it in on a Honda?

Are they Philips or Pozidrive screws. They are different angles on the points!

Roger

Ray,
Drill and re-tap is what I'm leaning towards. I'll check out the EDM too. I need an excuse to buy a Variac!

Fly,
I'm selling it to my brother and never buying another motorbike again!

Roger,
they are Phillips head. Thanks anyway.

I've no experience of using helicoils but it may be an option for you

You drill out the broken stud and tap a new thread , then insert the helicoil into the new thread.

MIKE