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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Mitcham Victoria
    Posts
    54

    Default Welding Progress

    Hi guys
    I dedicated all day yesterday (Sat 11.6.11) to practicing welding with the Smootharc 130. I was trying to weld some 4mm sheet together. I had in mind to try and make a wind deflector for the chimney. I started out (to try and get my confidence up) by cutting some 50 X 30 square tube at 90 degrees and trying to weld it to make an “L” shape. It seemed OK but when I looked I had blown a hole in the tip of it. I slowly filled it with weld and kept grinding it down and re-welding it. I must say that it look pretty reasonable now.

    Then I cut the sheet to size and clamped it with one of those magnetic thingies. All seemed to be going well and I thought I had done well when I dropped it (not an unusual occurrence) and one of the welded pieces just broke apart at the weld. I kept trying though and eventually it seems to have stuck pretty well.

    When I’m welding (2.5mm rods at lowish voltage) I think I am getting good penetration but it would seem that I’m not. When I tuned the job over on one of the joints there was a wide mark where the metal looks like it got fairly hot – that one held. On the one that broke the discolouration of the metal was far less pronounced. Is that what I’m meant to look for – the discolouration of the welded metal?

    Through the welding mask both jobs looked as though I was getting plenty of heat in there and there was a puddle of molten material. So what should I actually be looking for? Also I was drawing the electrode forward and backing it back about once a second to pre-heat the new area. Does that sound right?
    Peter

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Sydney
    Age
    51
    Posts
    86

    Default

    Probably best to raise this in the welding subforum.
    The discolouration of the metal is called the heat affected zone. Good to see on the back of a T joint but if your sheet pieces are butt jointed, you actually want the weld to go all the way through.

    For a horizontal weld, you generally dont bother going forward andback repeatedly. You just turn it up if the weld is cold. Maybe at the start, you can start your arc ahead of where you want to weld then bring it back.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Ballina, NSW
    Posts
    725

    Default

    Hi Peter, WELDING - Woodwork Forums is a dedicated forum for welding queries - do a search here and you'll find lots of good discussion.

    basically, welding fillets (i.e. in corners) is harder to get the hang of compared to butt welds (flat joints), so best to practice on flat joints first. Back and forth movement isn't necessary, sometimes it is used if welding rusty metal to clean ahead of the weld, but there's more risk of slag inclusions if you backtrack too much. A better technique is to either go straight, or weave (zigzag) slightly side to side to make sure both pieces of metal are involved in the weld. To check your penetration while welding, look at what's happening at the front of the arc. The arc should be eating into the new metal (both pieces) as you move along and the weld pool should be filling the crater up virtually immediately as you go. Note that half of the molten material is actually molten slag which floats on top of the weld and adds nothing to the actual strength of the bond - so you have to watch what's happening at the front of the weld pool rather than just checking to see what's been deposited. Cheers - Mick

  5. #4
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Mitcham Victoria
    Posts
    54

    Default

    Thanks all. Next time I post I'll stick it in to the welding forum but thanks a lot.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    2,340

    Default

    Just a heads up to be a little careful about welding too close to what you call one of the "magnetic thingies". I don't "do" stick, so can't comment on how they affect the arc in that case, but they definitely will pull a TIG arc when you get close to a magnetic clamp, at least that's my experience with them. I tend not to use them too much these days, both for that reason and the fact that I can set up a job more accurately and take steps to avoid it pulling out of square if I clamp the work with conventional clamps. It takes fractionally longer but my welding table corners are square so it's not too bad.

    Good luck with the fabrication.

    Pete

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