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Thread: Welding visors
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11th May 2013, 05:55 PM #16Dave J Guest
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11th May 2013, 06:10 PM #17GOLD MEMBER
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- Aug 2011
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- Melbourne
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Hi all,
A couple of years ago I got sick of using the hand held helmet and decided it was time to trade up. I do a bit of welding from time to time so I deserved it!
Got one of these: Miller 256162 Digital Performance Fireball Welding Helmet | eBay
And have never looked back!
It's very useable and very comfortable. Doesn't feel like I got a G clamp on my head!
Simon
Edit: Also I don't remember how much I paid but it was no where near this price!
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11th May 2013, 06:11 PM #18SENIOR MEMBER
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- Feb 2010
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- Ballina, NSW
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- 725
Definitely go for the auto helmet. I've still got my flip one, but haven't used it for years. While you're at it, if you wear reading glasses (but don't bother in the workshop like me), get a magnifying "cheater" lens of the appropriate magnification. Make sure your new helmet can easily accept one (mine just clips in) - it makes a world of difference. Don't get too stronger magnification, less is better than more, particularly for stick.
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11th May 2013, 06:15 PM #19SENIOR MEMBER
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- Apr 2012
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- Healesville
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Do BOC have them Mick ?
I mostly guess where I'm welding these days
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11th May 2013, 06:22 PM #20.
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- Feb 2006
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- Perth
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Yeah I was converted quite a few years ago.
The first I bought was a tecman which lasted a few years but then the head mount disintegrated so I bought something called a Uni-Mig. It has both a delay and sensitivity switch and it has been very good. One thing that I've noticed after using BILs $500+ helmet is that the viewing area seems to be restricted on the cheaper models.
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11th May 2013, 07:38 PM #21I break stuff...
- Join Date
- Aug 2010
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- Melbourne
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I use a Miller Digital Elite helmet at home. If it breaks, I'll buy another in a heartbeat. The advantage of the Digital Elite over the normal Elite (and most others on the market) becomes very obvious when you're welding something out of position... like, say, an exhaust on a car. I've been flashed so many times by the stupid Speedglas helmet at work because it's very easy to block the 'line of sight' to the sensors. The Miller Digital Elite however, has what they call 'X-mode'. It doesn't even need the 4 optical sensors in this mode, instead it detects the magnetic field the moment the arc is struck. Doesn't matter if you've got bright sunlight shining on the front of the helmet, tape over the optical sensors - it darkens regardless. I never use the normal triggering mode, I'm guessing the only reason you get that option is in case you're in an area with lots of magnetic fields causing nuisance triggering.
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11th May 2013, 08:15 PM #22Philomath in training
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- Oct 2011
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- Adelaide
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- 59
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I bought an elite 6+ years back. I bought out of the US because besides being cheaper Miller don't import plain black into Australia (or didn't at the time).
I tried to explain to the importer that as a non-qualified welder with very basic abilities if I showed up in a welding bay sporting something like that I would get so much crap from the 'pros' I would never be able to go back there again. No effect - would not import a black one even as a special order.
They are a nice thing though. I tried a cheater lens in one but the optics distorted the view. These days I have a pair of cheap shop plastic glasses that live in the shed for TIG work. For stick I can manage without them
Michael
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11th May 2013, 09:08 PM #23Senior Member
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- May 2012
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- Flagstaff Hill
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- 178
Yes I found the same problem, so I cut some material off a work shirt (it has fire retardant component) and used hot melt glue to glue it to the helmet. Initially I tried using leather but found that it was too heavy when welding. I tried using press studs and pop rivets, but it didn't seem to matter which way I tried it was too heavy and cumbersome when welding. Apart from the material for keeping out the back-light I also wear a welder's cap which seems to be made of fire retardant treated fabric.
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11th May 2013, 11:23 PM #24Senior Member
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- Apr 2010
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- Rural Victoria
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I own a Speedglas helmet and the thing is brilliant, but I have had probs with the helmet not darkening when a sensor is obscured... works a lot better if the covers are kept clean and replaced when they are too far gone.
One thing about the Speedglas is the threaded plastic crap that they attach the harness to the helmet with was quickly stripped and I have since machined up some nice stainless knobs for the outside, and some bushes for the inside, counter-bored to just the right diameter so that the head of an M5 socket cap is an interference fit in the counter-bored bush. Helmet is now somewhat heavier but no longer gives me the sh!ts.
The flip face is also okay, just replace one of the roll pins in the hinge with a rod of slightly smaller diameter (eg a cut down nail) and a slight nod of the head will drop the visor, and with a bit of hand eye coordination this will be quite effective.... PITA lifting by hand every time all the time though.
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11th May 2013, 11:33 PM #25China
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- Dec 2005
- Location
- South Australia
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- 4,475
I have am still using the flip up lense type ( 35 yrs) and have recently decided to try a auto helmet trouble is I have been spoilt using the omni view lense (gold) and now the green realy anoys me and it seems as though none of the brands have other than green lense
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12th May 2013, 09:30 AM #26
Don't over think it, just avoid the real cheap junk, go for one with a couple of knobs & play with it outside in the sun, don't look directly at the sun, just turn your head so the sun hits the sensors & turn away again, play with the knobs while you are doing this so when you do start welding, you know exactly which knob to turn & which direction to turn it.
Cliff.
If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.
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12th May 2013, 10:45 AM #27
Rob
If you want to come to Aberfoyle Park you are welcome to try out my helmets to see what suits you, I have a top end Speedglas 9100XX and a middle of the road BOC helmet. That might make it easier for you to decide, you can try it out on MIG, TIG and Stick here.
Rgds - Gavin
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12th May 2013, 10:56 AM #28SENIOR MEMBER
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- Jun 2012
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- SA
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- 1,478
Thanks for the offer Gavin.
I am not in any rush to replace my old CIG unit and weld with it quite OK, but I was interested to see who still uses them.
As I said earlier, my Bro in law still uses a basic old hand held and he's a very good welder (farmer).
I suppose old habits die hard.
Cheers
Rob
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12th May 2013, 11:54 AM #29Senior Member
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- Feb 2013
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- Laidley, SE Qld
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- 368
Back when the self darkening welding helmets were first on the market and still expensive a customer came into work and saw me using my old style helmet. He lent me his self darkening hemet for the weekend and said "on Monday you will find yourself buying one of these".
And he was dead right.
I bought a Speediglass which lasted for 15 years or so. Since then I do very little welding so a cheapy from Bunnings suffices.
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12th May 2013, 02:52 PM #30SENIOR MEMBER
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- Jun 2011
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- Australia east coast
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- 71
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- 1,469
I would probably give up welding before I went back to the old style helmets.
Not getting an auto-darkening helmet is like machining using spring calipers to measure shafts instead of a good micrometer. Sure you can do it, some people still do, but the advances in technology mean you're clinging to something that's thoroughly outdated.
I have 2 auto-darkening helmets, a good (new) one I keep for TIG welding and an older one I beat to death MIG welding the boat. There is a *lot* of out of position welding in a boat and all the spatter has to go somewhere.... I have a nice collection of burn scars.
PDW
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