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Thread: Wickman OPG Optical Grinder.
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14th November 2013, 11:24 PM #46GOLD MEMBER
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Started pulling the grinder to pieces today, really just to give it a good clean and fix a few things. Started with the easy side first, the work slides. Another broken bolt and a piece missing from the gauge block set up(happily its the least tricky part to make).
Seems the experts get it wrong now and again, the sliding ways have nice lightening bolts on them for oil, only problem is that the fixed ways have T slots in them. Now granted these slides wouldnt move as much but whats the point of putting the groves in if they arent going to do anything(or am I missing something again?)
The wiring can use a little work........ for some strange reason someone has used the green wire for 1 phase to the motor and left the white wire as a spare.
Sure, Ewan would have made a new slide in the same time but I'm old and slow
Hi Micheal,
14" diamond wheels....... bet ther're cheap! Now what would you be grinding to need a 14" dimond wheel? thats a big carbide punch! (not CBN?)
Stuart
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14th November 2013 11:24 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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15th November 2013, 11:42 AM #47
Hi Stuart,
Wiring colours can be all over the place, I remember trying to sort out wiring once to three remotely located pumps, the "electrician" ran three sets of orange circ, then proceeded to use all the red's on one pump, all the blue's on the second, and all the white on the third pump.. and, no joke he was an A grade electrician... just knew nothing about 3 phase.
Looks like it's coming together, you might get a call one of these days from Matty Fazio, he was interested in some profile grinding.
Regards
Ray
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19th November 2013, 12:34 AM #48GOLD MEMBER
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Matty might be waiting awhile, having a little trouble getting some of it to pieces lol
I guess the spraky must have done the same at the panel or nothing would happen. right?
I worked out why mine is wired that way. Its a replacement cable and the factory cable was 3 core, red, blue, green.so they copied that.
The manuals would seem to be from a later model, but still handy no and then, just not with the current problem.
Anyone got a Mercer 0.001" dial gage with an little clock in it? The ones in there were pretty gumbed up. I've cleaned one and its much better but still takes about 200g to "move up" and only 50g to move down. Maybe thats just how they are but my cheapie is more like 120 up 75 down(it has less gears inside though). I'd like to clean it better but I've even having trouble getting it to pieces, I undo the scews on the plate and it doesnt lift off???
Cleaned up some of the optics and started on the wiring. The profile blub 12V60W has been replaced with a quartz halogen of unknown wattage. Its great for using on the projector but blinds you if you try and use the eyepiece. I tried a single diode but while much better is still a little bright. I thought about a light dimmer on the primary side of the tranformer but I recall something about tranformers not liking PWM?
The tranformer isnt behind used for anything but the lighting. The controls will be 240V. As some of the optics for the "surface" lights is missing I'm going to replace some of the bulbs LEDs. So I'll likely need some way of dimming those.
Are these going to work on 12VAC?
12V White LED MES Filament Replacement Bulb 30 Deg 2 Pk | eBay
I'm sure I've left out a few questions.
Stuart
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19th November 2013, 01:42 AM #49
No, they will need 12V DC but you could always put in a small regulated supply, I've seen then on ebay for under $5.
Transformers don't like PWM.. because they will run hot. (I'm talking iron core, not ferrite) but if you use one of those drill speed controller type dimmers, they are just phase angle fired and should work.
If it comes to that, why not just use 240V halogen and a normal domestic light dimmer?
Regards
Ray
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19th November 2013, 06:39 AM #50Philomath in training
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19th November 2013, 08:33 AM #51.
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Stu,
If 58mm diameter is the correct size and you are happy with a Londoner, I have a Baty that's yours. I'm not trying to white ant Michael's offer. It just might be a size thing.
BT
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19th November 2013, 09:51 AM #52GOLD MEMBER
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Hi guys,
Thank you for your kind offers. I should have been clearer but I was not long in from the shed, maybe I shouldnt post late at night lol. ATM I'm just after the "weight" needed to move the the spindle. It feels ok, just heavy, but maybe thats how they are? I've only done a half assed clean on the main spindle bearing, nothing else(well I polished the jewel but that hardly counts). As I'm told they run dry I've just used some alcohol on the inside to flush it. If I could get it apart I'd do a better job but has me stumped ATM.(ok just had the back off the second indicactor, undo the same three screws and it comes apart as expected. Maybe its just a little to much thread lock glueing the first one together?) Getting it back together should prove even more interesting
Thanks Ray,
I'll have to check the switches and bulb type re using 240V.(and find somewhere to hide the dimmer) The wiring would need a rethink also.
I'm using 12VAC as thats what was there. I was going to leave all the factory switching gear in there(though I wont be using any of it), maybe I should just bin it all.
Now if I could just get this work head apart!
Stuart
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19th November 2013, 10:42 AM #53.
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Stu,
I have an old, maybe 50s, Mercer catalogue. It contains exploded parts drawings. May help.
BT
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19th November 2013, 11:36 AM #54GOLD MEMBER
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Hi BT,
Yes please. Having two the same should be a big help. But the drawings sure couldnt hurt.
Stuart
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19th November 2013, 09:47 PM #55.
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20th November 2013, 10:58 AM #56.
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Hope this is of some use Stu -
Mercer 1 (Large).jpg
The illustration is dated 1951. How old is the Wickman?
BT
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20th November 2013, 12:34 PM #57GOLD MEMBER
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Thank you Bob,
Sure looks like mine except one detail. Mine have a third pin in the rack that the tension lever runs on.
I have managed to the the worst one at part far enough that I can clean all of the rack and bush. Given that the spindle seems to me to be sliding freely now and whats said in the care intructions I might leave it at that and "assume" all is well now. It works vertically with the tension spring removed and through 80% of travel horizontally. If things werent prety much as they should be I assume that wouldnt happen.
I'm going to have to move the crystal removing tool up the list a little I think.
No date on the machine I can find. Damn thing doesnt want to be pulled apart but I'm getting there now I think.
Stuart
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20th November 2013, 05:56 PM #58GOLD MEMBER
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Well its in pieces. I missed a couple of pictures. Hope I can get it back together.
Anyone want to explain the patterns in the oil?
Stuart
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20th November 2013, 06:08 PM #59
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20th November 2013, 06:56 PM #60
What took you so long?
That oil pattern sure is interesting, i wonder if Phil has come across it before? Or if RC's grinder suffers the same thing?
Cheers
Ew1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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