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  1. #91
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    The fnike in Stuivlekian translates to knife. You had me thrown with the Last Order. Looking at the post and not being logged on was the problem. Order became Word when the picture appeared.

    There is no mention of spring tension. Mike stresses the importance of ensuring that the plane of the hairspring must be at right angles to the centreline of the staff spiral. If it's cocked or bent, the coils will contact the body assembly or dial plate and cause erratic hand motion.

    BT

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  3. #92
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    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Stuivlekian? I thought he was cursing a popular sports apparel brand......

    FWIW all my käfers and H&K have flat faces, they are held in by the "markers" (I'm sure they have a proper name) they are just like big internal circlips that run in the bezel.

    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  4. #93
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    lol, Time I started using Chrome with its built in spell checker though I'm sure I'll still manage to stuff up.

    Thanks for that. I've set it up so its "about the same" as the other one. I'll keep an eye on the spring if I gut the thing completely. I measured up how big the pullers need to be.... tiny!

    Well 1mm poly better do the job, I have enough for 968 lol

    Stuart

  5. #94
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    So I guess I have to make another one now? All that time polishing wasted!
    To save you looking back.
    https://www.woodworkforums.com/attach...inder-wgzg.jpg
    Well two more really. if you can see the ring that passes through ALBANS that was from a failed "chucking" attempt.

    On the plus side I can leave them in the sun for 10 years guaranteed not to go yellow lol
    On the minus side I'm not sure how coolant proof it is. "Oil emulsions and cutting oils should not be used when machining Makrolon® as these may contain additives to which Makrolon® is not resistant, resulting in stress crack formation. " Still at $0.07 each I cant see it being much of a problem.


    Stuart
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  6. #95
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    So Stu,

    Am I missing something? You've bought a full sheet of 1mm thick Makrolon and you've already made one crystal. Was the Makralon seller around the corner?

    How did you cut and bevel the replacement crystal?

    Bob.

  7. #96
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    Hi BT,

    No your're not missing anything. I have a full sheet of 1mm Makralon I gave the local guy a call got a price a little better so I got off my butt and went and got one. Got to be happy when you can get it about the same price locally I've now made 3 crystals. Can't tell you how its a secret Well ok chuck a piece of 50odd mm dia plastic, face, set top slide to 10 degrees or there abouts, rough cut your crystal(tinsnips work well enough), set it up on the plastic, put a thick wash over your live center, clamp crystal, turn to size. Job done. Now I just need to have a bit more of a think about DTI crystals, I have a couple of ideas. One question came up though, what is a neutral detergent?
    The yellow is growing on me... but its got to go I guess.

    Got another level on today, though really its just to get it out of the way and keep the parts together as it will likely have to come off again.

    Onto the slides. I had a chat with Phil about these and the plan was to leave them on and scrape them in place. Since then I have measured the wear and its .2mm+ but its mostly on one corner. Now I figured I would be best to take them off, check the unworn corners are all the same high, if so get them ground. This "I think" would give me less alignment issues and get me as closer to the factory alignment. (would .2mm really give me alignment issues?) Problem is I cant drive all the pins though. I guess I could try drilling and tapping to pull them out? any other ideas?

    Think I am forgetting something

    Stuart
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  8. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Hi BT,

    No your're not missing anything. I have a full sheet of 1mm Makralon I gave the local guy a call got a price a little better so I got off my butt and went and got one. Got to be happy when you can get it about the same price locally I've now made 3 crystals. Can't tell you how its a secret Well ok chuck a piece of 50odd mm dia plastic, face, set top slide to 10 degrees or there abouts, rough cut your crystal(tinsnips work well enough), set it up on the plastic, put a thick wash over your live center, clamp crystal, turn to size. Job done. Now I just need to have a bit more of a thinck about DTI crystals, I have a couple of ideas. One question came up though, what is a neutral detergent?
    The yellow is growing on me... but its got to go I guess.

    Got another level on today, though really its just to get it out of the way and keep the parts together as it will likely have to come off again.

    Onto the slides. I had a chat with Phil about these and the plan was to leave them on and scrape them in place. Since then I have measured the wear and its .2mm+ but its mostly on one corner. Now I figured I would be best to take them off, check the unworn corners are all the same high, if so get them ground. This "I think" would give me less alignment issues and get me as closer to the factory alignment. (would .2mm really give me alignment issues?) Problem is I cant drive all the pins though. I guess I could try drilling and tapping to pull them out? any other ideas?

    Think I am forgetting something

    Stuart
    Neutral pH I would guess. Try to avoid phosphates too. Bad for the environment.

    Dean

  9. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oldneweng View Post
    Neutral pH I would guess.
    Yeah I think so to, but what am i going to have at home? car wash? velvet soap? shampoo?
    I assume I'm washing of some glue that kept the protecting plastic fillm on?

    Stuart

  10. #99
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    Stu, I take it that it is grinding dust that has taken its toll on the ways? I slipped the 13's head off the other day, 51 years and no dust. A marked difference.

    DSC_1081 (Large).JPG

    Is there no protection?

    BT

    ps. are the pins what we can see in photo 3?

  11. #100
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    Hi BT

    There is a felt wiper. There should be an extraction system thats mouted on the wheel slide but I dont have that. I have a drawing of it so sohuld be easy enough to knock something up.

    My end the ways are in the last picture, two pins each way, between the cap screws. The curved ways in the 3 pic are what the gearbox move on.

    Stuart

  12. #101
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    They looked too big. I was expecting something 1/4 inch or so. It was the Google Earth shadowless photo that threw me off.

  13. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Yeah I think so to, but what am i going to have at home? car wash? velvet soap? shampoo?
    I assume I'm washing of some glue that kept the protecting plastic fillm on?

    Stuart
    I would go with dishwashing detergent myself. It is my impression that these plastic films are only held on with suction. LCD/LED screen protectors for phones, cameras etc have plastic film on both sides. The instructions say they have no glue of any sort on them. Remove screen side film, place on screen and remove outer film. They can be removed and repositioned. The screen must be very clean. A tiny cloth supplied.

    All held in place with suction and maybe some static.

    Not really sure why you need to clean the Makrolon surface. Is this just another brand of polycarb like lexan? I bought some perspex a couple of months ago to replace 2 missing window panels in a ute canopy. We got it for $200 because of the broken panels and lack of keys from a wrecker. I spoke about using polycarb to the salesperson in the plastics shop but he said they didn't have any. Couple of minutes later I saw some pieces of lexan leaning against the wall next to the rack.

    Just my 2c worth.

    Dean

  14. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oldneweng View Post
    I would go with dishwashing detergent myself.
    Well thats sounds cheap enough even for me
    Quote Originally Posted by Oldneweng View Post
    It is my impression that these plastic films are only held on with suction.
    No Idea what it is but there does seem to be some there. Once the film is removed it wont stick back on.

    Quote Originally Posted by Oldneweng View Post
    and maybe some static.
    Talking about static, anyone got a good way of discharging poly?

    Quote Originally Posted by Oldneweng View Post
    Not really sure why you need to clean the Makrolon surface. Is this just another brand of polycarb like lexan?
    Yeap pretty much the same stuff I think.... though there are 9 types of Makrolon!

    Quote Originally Posted by Oldneweng View Post
    Couple of minutes later I saw some pieces of lexan leaning against the wall next to the rack.
    Sounds like you need a new plastics guy
    But then I'm only using poly as a guess, I thought about perspex but google told me that was a cheaper inferior alternative(the big one was it shatters they tell me) to polycarbonate.

    Stuart

  15. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Problem is I cant drive all the pins though. I guess I could try drilling and tapping to pull them out? any other ideas?
    Are they parallel pins or tapered? You could take all the bolts out and try lifting the way sections off, then belt the dowels out from the backside of the way.

    Phil.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Machtool View Post
    Are they parallel pins or tapered? You could take all the bolts out and try lifting the way sections off, then belt the dowels out from the backside of the way.

    Phil.
    Some parts of the shaper were held with parallel pins. Gave me trouble until I realised.

    Dean

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