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  1. #121
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    Well back to cleaning for the minute.
    The pulleys on this part felt pretty shocking. most of the problem was pieces of (I assume) belt wrapped around the axle. But the grease has turned into serveral sorts of non grease like substances. flacky hard stuff, non sticky rubber like stuff and a couple of others lol. Anyway been cleaning them up(is it a good idea to put bearings in an ultrasonic cleaner?). Ok so once I get them clean how to I regrease them? A couple of ideas come to mind.
    1. drill and tap all the caps for grease/oil nipple and pump some grease/oil? in.
    2. make a replacment cap with a greease nipple, pump some grease in them switch to the factory cap.

    I assume these are pretty much greased for life normally?

    I like the sound of oil myself.

    Well heating the poly is needed. Without heat everything looks great until you spray some IPA on it and it shows up all the cracking.
    Got one pretty close but its still no exactly like the factory one.

    Stuart
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  3. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Well heating the poly is needed. Without heat everything looks great until you spray some IPA on it and it shows up all the cracking.
    Are you sure the IPA isn't causing the cracking? Poly carb is known for stress cracking

    Michael

  4. #123
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    Are you sure the IPA isn't causing the cracking?
    "pretty sure"
    I did a few halfassed tests but the best proof I have is that the last few I made with a little heat(they are all pretty much the same shape) dont have the problem when sprayed with IPA.

    Another option with the bearings is to bin the lot. I guess I'll see how they come up.

    Stuart

  5. #124
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    Default USA mob too expensive

    Quote Originally Posted by Abratool View Post
    Stuart
    Yes, the ring is there it has a split (like a piston ring) so it looks like it springs out, to the internal dia of the bezel.
    The ring is located in the bezel.
    I guessed the plastic crystal fits in the groove in the bezel above the ring ?
    Maybe I have been wrong. Does it fit below the ring?
    If so how do I get the bezel ring assembly off to fit the crystal?
    Photo attached of the problem.
    regards
    Bruce
    I tried the link that Anorak Bob gave, & contacted the USA firm for a price on a replacement "Crystal" lens & they came back with a price of US$37 which was a bit more than I anticipated for the Starrett 711.
    Thinking of trying to use a 3 point bond of Silicone adhesive, on the OD of the existing "Crystal"... got a feeling that should work.
    regards
    Bruce

  6. #125
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    Hi Bruce,
    Give it a couple of weeks, I'm sure I'll get it sorted.
    Whats the OD of your crystal?

    Stuart

  7. #126
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    Default Diameter of Crystal

    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Hi Bruce,
    Give it a couple of weeks, I'm sure I'll get it sorted.
    Whats the OD of your crystal?

    Stuart
    Stuart, the ID of the bezel in my Starrett 711 indicator is .905" measured across the diameter of the metal bezel above the spring ring.The OD of the existing Crystal (that falls out) is .885" dia.
    The Crystal should be around .915" to .920" OD to be a clip fit into the metal bezel, I would think ?
    I suspect the Crystal has "domed" over the years & got smaller in dia.
    Thats how it arrived after I purchased it off E Bay in the USA.
    regards
    Bruce

  8. #127
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    Well after spending ages cleaning the bearings they appear to be stuffed anyway. Funny circles of different sizes on the bearings??? So I oiled them and put it back together, someones been here before me as there are two different bearing suppliers and sone of the tubes have had a second set of holes for the end caps drilled. Something else is going on as one of the end caps needs to be left loose or it rubs on the end of the shaft.

    34E2 10L R&M and 110ACD TH are the bearing numbers 30OD 10mmID.


    Hi Bruce,
    Sizes are about right. I think I've just about cracked the crystal, but the picture looks shocking. I over heated MkI so it bubbled. Tomorrow maybe.

    Stuart
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  9. #128
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    Stu, did the bearings feel rough at all? Those cicles look to me like the balls could have rubbed against some minute particles in the cage. If you cleaned them well, that may not have any effect at all - unless there is a 'burr' on the edges of the circles.... only a microscope would tell. Hang on, you have one or more of those haven't you???
    Cheers,
    Joe
    9"thicknesser/planer, 12" bench saw, 2Hp Dusty, 5/8" Drill press, 10" Makita drop saw, 2Hp Makita outer, the usual power tools and carpentry hand tools...

  10. #129
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    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Quote Originally Posted by jhovel View Post
    Stu, did the bearings feel rough at all? Those cicles look to me like the balls could have rubbed against some minute particles in the cage. If you cleaned them well, that may not have any effect at all - unless there is a 'burr' on the edges of the circles.... only a microscope would tell. Hang on, you have one or more of those haven't you???
    A job for kitty cam maybe....No wait, wrong gender

    I may be a little slow on the uptake but what are the rollers for?

    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  11. #130
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    Hi Joe,
    Hard to say, they sound pretty shocking loose, but assembled they dont sound "to bad"........but I'm not the best at bearings. The bearings look satin which is a bit of a worry. I found some in the states for $36 each(I need 8) or $6 on ebay......

    Hi Ewan,

    That bearing picture is from kitty cam(though only on 8X I think).

    The wheel and wheel slide are both driven with the same flat belt and are both on a seperate casting that does the vertical wheel slide adjustment from the casting the motor is mounted on......... a picture. that will be easier



    Stuart
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    Last edited by Stustoys; 16th December 2013 at 05:22 PM. Reason: spellimg

  12. #131
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    Well MK8 I think this is pretty much as good as the factory one, part of the machining covers the graduations on the dail but I think thats how they were? Some polishing might improve things, far less noticable when its 1"dia not 7".

    Anyone MIG welded cast iron with silcon bronze? I picked up a roll and am thinking about filling up the ends of oil grooves on the work slides. Though given how much work the machine has done to get to this point and how much its going to do going forward I'm not sure its worth it.

    Stuart
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  13. #132
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    Default Thanks to Stuart

    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Hi Bruce,

    We thanks to BT I have a last order to practice on.
    Are you sure the bezel hasnt been pushed on to far?
    Maybe its missing the ring?(if its an old crystal)
    I havent replace any crystals with "new" as yet.

    Stuart
    Thanks Stuart for posting to me the Crystals for my Starrett 711 Dial Indicator.
    The first one I tried to assemble was just a little large in diameter. however the second Crystal was just the perfect size, & it was secured by the spilt wire ring before assembling the bezel back on to the body of the indicator.
    It looks & works like a brand new indicator.
    I just marvel at the way you have made these Crystals, they are indeed a work of precision.
    Thanks again.
    regards
    Bruce

  14. #133
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    Hi Bruce,


    Glad to help
    Quote Originally Posted by Abratool View Post
    The first one I tried to assemble was just a little large in diameter.
    Hmm, well it fitted this end lol. My first guess is that ploy seems to move slowly for at least while are it is formed*. It was tight when it left here so it wouldnt take much before it wouldnt fit.
    The one you've used is as close as I could get to the factory one. It doesnt look so good with a single point light source but in daylight looks fine to me and thats how the factory one is. Tossing the ring out didnt really appeal but that seems to be the way the replacements are done.


    On the Wickman side of things I hope to get back to it in the next week or so.

    Stuart

    *I found this out when I wrecked the first factory crystal in the Mercer off the Wickman. It was stuffed as I over curved it by misstake.......over the next week or so it slowly came back into shape and now you wouldnt know I had even been there unless I showed you.

  15. #134
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    Archimedes was right!
    I needed to move the Wickman back a few feet to make some room. I'd found a use for some of my 36mm bar. 8 or so 6ft lengths and away it went. Manage it mostly by myself with a little help from SWMBO on a couple of occasions. Moved easy as. After a couple of feet it time to lift again so I could move the rollers back the the start. Was a little harder to move sideways as the nuts weren't so happy rolling(which is what they were there for, and ti jack that end up a little)... but just a bit of a shove and it went smoothly enough.

    Hope to get back on this job soon(in fact any job would be a start lol)

    Stuart
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  16. #135
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    A cunning stunt.

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