Thread: A woodie with a metalurgy question

Jim, what he was referring to were things called "hard-facing electrodes", which because of the composition of the flux and the rod will put a hard layer on the base metal. The application you are thinking of might work, but you would have to shape the deposited metal with an angle grinder as I suspect a file may not be hard enough.

I'd rate the idea as a 'probably'

Michael

What about these?

Tridon High Tensile Side Cut 12"Bolt Cutters HITNBC0300

If you are wanting to do what I think you are wanting to do, then you are basically after a large version of a luthier's fret cutters. These are basically side cutters that have one face ground flat, to there is a bevel on one side, and the other side is flat. These mean you can cut fret wire flush to the fretboard with little or no protrusion that has to be filed away. You can buy them (but they wouldn't be strong enough for you) but a lot of people make them simply by grinding a standard pair so one side is flat. If your bolt cutters weren't all that expensive, then before trying a complicated fix, why not simply try grinding the current ones flat on one side. If it doesn't work then you probably have to buy a new one though.

I am not a metalworking expert either though, so am willing to be shot down in flames by somebody who knows.

Hi Jim,
Are you hoping this new jaw shape will mean you don't need to grind? I'm not so sure about that unless you get some sort of bypass cutter(at that may give you other issues)

Why not just use the grinder and forget the bolt cutters?

If you still what to try your idea, I think I'd just grind the bevel off the side of the jaws you have. You'd only have to grind 6ish mm from the tip so if it doesnt work so well the rest of the jaw will still be ok

Stuart

Originally Posted by BobL

What about these?
Tridon High Tensile Side Cut 12"Bolt Cutters HITNBC0300

Thanks Bob, those are the ones that I thought were Milwaukee. The ad at the top of the page threw me.
I've made inquiries of the site owner and they could more accurately be called "Micro bevel"

Originally Posted by Michael G

Jim, what he was referring to were things called "hard-facing electrodes", which because of the composition of the flux and the rod will put a hard layer on the base metal. The application you are thinking of might work, but you would have to shape the deposited metal with an angle grinder as I suspect a file may not be hard enough.

Thanks Michael. The rods my farmer boss was using were plain old Satincraft 13 clones.
Your run of the mill general purpose rods.
I guess he was working on the theory that the metal got to cherry red, then cooled.
I've often cleaned up my welds with a file, so I guess that puts paid to the theory that a weld is hardened.
Thanks anyway
Jim

Originally Posted by petersemple

If your bolt cutters weren't all that expensive, then before trying a complicated fix, why not simply try grinding the current ones flat on one side. If it doesn't work then you probably have to buy a new one though.

Thanks Peter, I've got nothing to lose. The Trojan boltcutters are something like $30. No big deal to experiment and replace if it doesn't work.
I'll give it a go.
Thanks again
Jim

Originally Posted by Stustoys

Hi Jim,
Are you hoping this new jaw shape will mean you don't need to grind?

In a nutshell, yes.
I'm probably dreaming, aren't I?

Why not just use the grinder and forget the bolt cutters?

A couple of reasons.
The angle I have to use the grinder at in the middle of the sheet means I basically have to have a new 4" disc. Once it wears down a bit, it won't work. By cutting it off, I can use the disc right down to the hub.
Guess I learnt something from my old farmer boss....I'm a cheapskate.

And, its quicker.

Yeah I know, I could buy a bigger disc grinder but for the following.

I'm aware of the noise I'm making. Cleaning up the stubs is super fast. No complaints from the neighbour so far, but I'd like to keep it that way.
Soonish I'll be starting on some sound proofing.

Thanks Stuart

Cheers
Jim

Originally Posted by Grandad-5

I'm probably dreaming, aren't I?

I think you might be, but will be interested in seeing your results.

Stuart

Jim,

I have also seen farmers building up the faces of plough and sheer blades with various rods to face harden the edge and prolong the life of the tool by arc as well as oxy torch.....some even deposit a type of ceramic to a work face....it could be done but rather fiddly trying to end up with a perfect cutting edge you need ....did you consider one of those reciprocating type saws with a suitable blade to match.....they may not be as quick as the grinder but with experience, should do the job you need without as much noise or edge tear......I'g go with a fine tooth blade.......just a suggestion.......Lee

Originally Posted by barkersegg

Jim,
....did you consider one of those reciprocating type saws with a suitable blade to match.....they may not be as quick as the grinder but with experience, should do the job you need without as much noise or edge tear......I'd go with a fine tooth blade.......just a suggestion.......

No Lee, I hadn't considered one. I wouldn't have thought it would be any quieter. I don't own one, but I might put a metal cutting blade in my jigsaw as an experiment. Yes, I know that's not what you're suggesting and its not the ideal tool for the job but the noise and cutting ability should be similar. Wouldn't it?
Worth a try.

Anyone.....is there much difference between angle grinders? Noise wise?

I'm thinking the noise is from the disc itself but I may not be correct.
I used to use Floxovit but my local supplier had some Pferds the last time I was there.
Can't see much difference to be honest.

Is a better grinder any quieter? I never used a really good one.

Long term, I HAVE to get some sound proofing up. Just don't have the $$$ right now. Soon though.

Jim, I found that the ultra thin cutting blades usually run a fraction quiter than the thicker blades on BMS - still noisy though and they don't last as long either - you need ear (and eye) protection even for a small grinder cut wheras the saws I used, don't feel I needed ear protection......have less kick back and can be used in many situations a grinder cannot.....such as cutting to a face or close in where the wheel and the lock nut on a grinder limit you - with a 4" grinder, just under half that for depth so in cutting mesh, a grinder can overlap and catch in the next bit - I know, I've cut reo mesh with a grinder and sometimes it can get ugly with the bigger blades.... definately quicker than a saw, but a saw is a whole lot quieter for me........then you wouldn't use a saw for long mesh cuts anyway - horses for course......others here would be more familar with their metal cutting limitations than me and hopefully steer you correct.............Lee

Sorry Mate....BMS????
I can figure most of the abreviations used here but that ones got me.

Jim

BMS = Bright Mild Steel.......apologies, should have realised