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11th May 2020, 05:37 PM #31Senior Member
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Well, the current situation gave me the opportunity to make a riving knife for my saw. I tried to purchase one and this became a challenge and rather a pain in the butt not to mention the cost was just way out there. Basically this was going to be a proto type however turned out rather good.
Once made, I read the article on here and also checked google and Utube, it all came to the same outcome. Knife needed to be larger than the blade but smaller than the kerf of the saw blade. So just checked my proto type and I think its going to be my riving knife. I figure its close.
My figures turned out to be
Blade - 2.28 mm
- + .66 - my concern is this one if its to big of a step up I have bevelled the feed in side.
Knife - 2.94 mm
- + 09mm
Kerf - 3.33
Anyway, what are your thoughts.
Brian
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11th May 2020, 06:44 PM #32GOLD MEMBER
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Sounds fine to me, BUT is there anywhere to attach it? The lack of a suitable attachment point seems to be the problem more often than not.
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11th May 2020, 06:50 PM #33GOLD MEMBER
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It is not critical. Ideally you would opt for 2.8050 but that's splitting hairs. Your kerf is still wider than your knife so the blade can still cut a pinch. The blade body is considerably thinner than your knife which will eliminate any chance of pinch on the blade caused by timber tension. So, in other words,
its a safe knife. The one drawback with an unequal variance is that the feed force may need to be greater when sawing springy timber.
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11th May 2020, 09:57 PM #34
I did this thread a while back.... splitter for the table saw - home made - give it a go
It involved making a ZCI and a MDF "blade".
I used them every day for 3 years. No wear of any kind. Absolutely no catches, no issues, no nothing. They performed flawlessly.
I did make one minor modification, which was to run a bead of thin CA along the base of the board, where it joins the insert, to give me a little more confidence (not that it needed it).
Here is a video of how its done....
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12th May 2020, 12:38 PM #35Senior Member
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- Apr 2015
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- Darwin
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I made the knife and used the existing lock points. I have attached the knife and it has about 5 mm space between the blade and knife feed point. When its in position and locked I cannot move the knife at all unless I hit hard with a piece of timber etc. So figure the knife will be secured.
One more thing I will check I have a feeling the guide I have is DEAD parallel to the blade, so I might adjust the guide so its splaying out a tad. I figure this will also aid in relieving tension when cutting rough sawn timbers.
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