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Thread: Push sticks and blocks
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4th August 2023, 02:34 PM #16
Clever use of the non-slip mat material.
A couple of constructive observations,
- avoid using mechanical fasteners on push blocks wherever possible.
- consider reinforcing the cross grain handle on the two blocks front right as a potential kick back may shear the handle from the body. A dowel set sufficiently into the block would be stronger. The ply ones are OK.
I prefer not to use push blocks at all if possible and I'm not real keen having any mechanical fasteners on my push blocks. I prefer to rely upon a well cured PVA or epoxy glued joint wherever possible. Often when I require a quick solution I will use thick CA glue and accelerator. As mentioned above I use sleds a lot more these days.
I make a lot of thin rips on the table saw or band saw and often from short "valuable" stock (see # below) or from inlay banding blocks to make 1 mm thick inlay strips. I use PVA or CA glue quite a lot to glue the stock to another waste or sacrificial block or board on edge or face depending upon the application, narrow strips from the edge of a board or wide veneers from a face. For a quick solution its CA, though generally I like to plan ahead and use PVA, or if its an inlay banding block that may possibly be around for years I will take more care and carefully machine a "host board" that is permanently glued in place on one edge with PVA. Pine dunnage is fair game!
Typically my banding blocks are 50 to 70mm wide, 6 to 12 mm thick and anywhere from 100 mm to approx 1m in length. At times I make shorter test / sample or one off blocks (45 to 50 mm long) for pen making. In all cases it is far more convenient, efficient, and safer, passing them through the band saw when they are attached to a much wider board, typically 40 to 100 mm wide, of the same thickness and of a same or longer length than the stock.
# CAUTION - passing "unsupported" short stock through a table saw and even a band saw presents a number of high risk hazards!Mobyturns
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4th August 2023 02:34 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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4th August 2023, 05:04 PM #17SENIOR MEMBER
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I take your point about mechanical fasteners and I even have a Sawstop but these sacrificial heels get chewed up and I wanted a quick way of replacing them so I've made many replacements with the same screw holes and also I carefully set my blade height so its no where near those screws. So I'm comfortable using them. Each to their own!
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4th August 2023, 05:39 PM #18
I agree - each to their own. You are obviously aware of the hazards and are managing them.
My push blocks are very neanderthal! Nothing more than a scrap of 140 or 190 x 19 mm pine or similar with the heel block glued to the sole of the block. The top & sole are parallel. I've found that they are stronger and last longer than more "permanent" setups with replaceable heel blocks. About the only concession I make to comfort is taking an aris off the top edges as the squared corner can get uncomfortable. When the heel block or sole is knocked about to much I simply run them through the saw on the flat and make a true sole then start again.Mobyturns
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7th August 2023, 08:54 PM #19Intermediate Member
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I made some push paddles with
Paint Partner Hand Sander - Bunnings Australia
I just peeled off the foam, knocked out the bolts for the clamps, and used some brass screws to hold on some 12mm timber I had laying around. I put a lip or hook on one end. put the foam back on the timber.
They need a redo now, and funnily enough i have yet to hit a screw.
That was my million dollar retirement idea, but now its out there.
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