Clever use of the non-slip mat material.
A couple of constructive observations,
- avoid using mechanical fasteners on push blocks wherever possible.
- consider reinforcing the cross grain handle on the two blocks front right as a potential kick back may shear the handle from the body. A dowel set sufficiently into the block would be stronger. The ply ones are OK.
I prefer not to use push blocks at all if possible and I'm not real keen having any mechanical fasteners on my push blocks. I prefer to rely upon a well cured PVA or epoxy glued joint wherever possible. Often when I require a quick solution I will use thick CA glue and accelerator. As mentioned above I use sleds a lot more these days.
I make a lot of thin rips on the table saw or band saw and often from short "valuable" stock (see # below) or from inlay banding blocks to make 1 mm thick inlay strips. I use PVA or CA glue quite a lot to glue the stock to another waste or sacrificial block or board on edge or face depending upon the application, narrow strips from the edge of a board or wide veneers from a face. For a quick solution its CA, though generally I like to plan ahead and use PVA, or if its an inlay banding block that may possibly be around for years I will take more care and carefully machine a "host board" that is permanently glued in place on one edge with PVA. Pine dunnage is fair game! :D
Typically my banding blocks are 50 to 70mm wide, 6 to 12 mm thick and anywhere from 100 mm to approx 1m in length. At times I make shorter test / sample or one off blocks (45 to 50 mm long) for pen making. In all cases it is far more convenient, efficient, and safer, passing them through the band saw when they are attached to a much wider board, typically 40 to 100 mm wide, of the same thickness and of a same or longer length than the stock.
# CAUTION - passing "unsupported" short stock through a table saw and even a band saw presents a number of high risk hazards!