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  1. #1
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    Default Table saw safety

    Hi all.
    I have just purchased my first real Table saw.
    I got the SawStop contractor saw but have very little experience using Table saws. ( I am a carpenter so have plenty of experience using circ saws and mitre saws)
    What I’m after is a book or an online link to learn good techniques to hopefully avoid injury or Damage to the saw.
    Any help would be much appreciated.
    Cheers Jim

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  3. #2
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    Here is one on YouTube to get you started Table saw safety tips you forgot about (or never knew) - YouTube

    you tube can be hit and miss for good info but stumpy nubs is one of the better ones I reckon.

    Cheers Andrew

  4. #3
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    Fine woodworking has a table saw safety "hub" where they have collated a bunch of their articles. You can download a PDF of each for free too.

    Staying Safe on the Tablesaw - FineWoodworking

    Here is a fairly comprehensive video by Marc Adams who has run a woodworking school for many years.

    Tablesaw Fundamentals with Marc Adams - YouTube

  5. #4
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    for the Stumpy Nubs post from Andrew. When I saw the thread title I was about to post the same.

    Stumpy Nubs (Jame Hamilton) is a great resource. As a new user, take the time to see the other videos in his series:




    Here is some good info from the UK Government OH&S bureau:
    https://www.hse.gov.uk/woodworking/ripsaw.htm

    (See the other woodwork safety info on the same site)

    Steve Ramsey also has some good tips:

    https://youtu.be/91v0Yg1L4ok



  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by LanceC View Post
    Fine woodworking has a table saw safety "hub" where they have collated a bunch of their articles.

    Here is a fairly comprehensive video by Marc Adams who has run a woodworking school for many years.

    Tablesaw Fundamentals with Marc Adams - YouTube
    in addition, Fine Woodworking has moved Marc Adams' seven table saw videos outside their paywall.
    I can't tell if the move to outside the "unlimited access required" area is temporary, long term or a permanent move.
    link Tablesaw Techniques - FineWoodworking
    The videos are also available on DVD.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  7. #6
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    How refreshing to see such a OP from an experienced carpenter.

    FWIW and not to throw caution to the wind, stats collected over many years show that Table saw use has the lowest rate of injuries (per person-hour spent using these machines) comnpared to all other machines in a woodie shop. Hand held circulars and mitres saw are in the mid range of injuries. Interestingly professionals users and DIYer have about the same rate of injuries from use of a TS. Pros of course spend more time on these machines than DIY and probably eventually become over confident? TSs look scary so this probably saves many DIYers from more injuries. Bandsaws look much safer but are right up there and involved more injuries.

    The 3 basic things I got tired of reminding mens shed members of were.
    Wear PPE
    Use a push stick
    Don't stand in line with the blade.

  8. #7
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    Thanks to all who posted links, some great tips picked up so far.
    As with most tasks we perform and tools we use I believe good technique is the best way to achieve effective and safe results.
    Although this is a tool that will rarely be used by my apprentices , I want to be sure that if and when they do I am able to teach them how to use it properly and safely.
    Cheers to all that have contributed.

  9. #8
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    Knowing what to do is great, knowing what NOT to do is generally better. Here is a link to a terrible technique, but with competent guidance such as "don't do this stupid stuff!" it can be quite beneficial to watch.
    How to turn a bowl on a FREAKING TABLE SAW! - YouTube

    At the 3:16 minute mark of the video, he is explaining how the work piece will act as a guard protecting your fingers. It is a greatly incompetent comment. The reason your hands are in harms way is because of the work piece! In this video he is effectively cradling the blade with both of his hands. If the timber cracks and blows apart, you lose your hand. If the jig which is clamped to the table saw surface via two miter slot expansion thingos which can easily slip, you lose your hand. I did say "if" twice there, you will probably get away with it most times, but you can't grow back a hand because you wanted to make a bowl out of that cool looking albeit unstable heavily defected burl bowl blank. In both examples, the operator is not in control of the environment. The timber blew apart, or the jig slipped, both are uncontrolled and unexpected events.

    I use this exact example when people talk to me in person. To the uninitiated, it seems like a OK thing to do...until someone asks the question "what if the timber explodes?". They always come to the conclusion they would lose their hands!

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimfish View Post
    Thanks to all who posted links, some great tips picked up so far.
    As with most tasks we perform and tools we use I believe good technique is the best way to achieve effective and safe results.
    Although this is a tool that will rarely be used by my apprentices , I want to be sure that if and when they do I am able to teach them how to use it properly and safely.
    Cheers to all that have contributed.
    Jim, I'm surprised that your apprentices would not be receiving "block" training in the safe operation of power tools and machinery that they would commonly encounter on a "job site."

    A table saw is not that common to see on say a house build, but larger builders may well have them back in the shed / workshop or on sites such as shop fit outs or larger sites high rise etc where there is a justification for one.

    Dad was a registered builder (chippie) up to the mid 1980's in FNQ and we had a DeWalt radial Arm Docking saw on site. It paid for itself many times over in time savings. He always had a watchful eye on it when he heard it in use.

    Kudos for doing the right thing in making sure your apprentices are safe & well trained.
    Mobyturns

    In An Instant Your Life CanChange Forever

  11. #10
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    The main issue I have with those sawstop saws is the full length fence, it greatly multiplies the likelihood of kickbacks because the material is still held against the uplifting back of the blade. I would consider fitting another piece on the fence which stops just before the centre of the blade, therefore allowing the cut pieces to fall away from the back of the blade. Keep safe.

    - - - Updated - - -

    The main issue I have with those sawstop saws is the full length fence, it greatly multiplies the likelihood of kickbacks because the material is still held against the uplifting back of the blade. I would consider fitting another piece on the fence which stops just before the centre of the blade, therefore allowing the cut pieces to fall away from the back of the blade. Keep safe.

  12. #11
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    RE; I would consider fitting another piece on the fence which stops just before the centre of the blade, therefore allowing the cut pieces to fall away from the back of the blade.
    I have a piece of Al extrusion that bolts to a T track on the fence.

    FF3nce.jpg

  13. #12
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    Interesting; although I’ve seen a few saws with shortened fences I’ve never seen an explanation why.

    Quick question; most of the work I use a table saw for is for ripping timber to width and for that I regard a full length fence as essential. If you are using a shortened fence how do you compensate for the ever reducing reference edge as the end of the timber approaches the blade?
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chief Tiff View Post
    Interesting; although I’ve seen a few saws with shortened fences I’ve never seen an explanation why.

    Quick question; most of the work I use a table saw for is for ripping timber to width and for that I regard a full length fence as essential. If you are using a shortened fence how do you compensate for the ever reducing reference edge as the end of the timber approaches the blade?
    My short fence is held on by 2 socket screw, 20s with an allen key and it comes off, and 20s t out back on again

  15. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chief Tiff View Post
    Interesting; although I’ve seen a few saws with shortened fences I’ve never seen an explanation why.

    Quick question; most of the work I use a table saw for is for ripping timber to width and for that I regard a full length fence as essential. If you are using a shortened fence how do you compensate for the ever reducing reference edge as the end of the timber approaches the blade?
    A full length fence is not essential, it is downright dangerous. With a correctly fitted riving knife, and a good solid fence of the correct length, you should be able to rip any timber accurately,and safely. If the edge is jointed straight first, ripping to width is a straightforward process, one which I’ve done safely uncountable times in over 40 years.

  16. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    My short fence is held on by 2 socket screw, 20s with an allen key and it comes off, and 20s t out back on again
    But do you use the short fence when ripping?
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

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