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Thread: Accelerater

  1. #1
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    Default Accelerater

    G`day does anyone make there own?

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  3. #2
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    Mick, water in a spray bottle will do the trick.

  4. #3
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    Does it really work? Like a fine mist? Why are we paying $23 for it then?
    Mick

  5. #4
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    Default Mick

    I went through this exercise a while back and the conclusion was no conclusion since the chemical analysis showed it is made up of some horrendous stuff akin to actually
    putting life and limb at risk and involving real science.
    Water works but I personally wont put water near my blanks unless I was 100 per cent sure all the timber was really sealed, just me but a real consideration.
    Also other simple things work but alas not like the real thing.Model makers swear by some things but the bottom line is nothing is a substitute that is as consistent and effective.
    To save some money refer to Timberbits essay on the Bunnings product made in Melbourne he gave us a heads up on where a container of thick CA and a spray pack of accelerator priced at 19.99 or so value of maybe 40.00 plus of other suppliers could be attractive to you. It is in the glues section at Bunnies. It is a two pack of glue and accelerator, others are using this.
    Hey have success please I too will follow this with interest.
    Regards Peter.

  6. #5
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    Actually one of the best accelerators available is your finger tip. When I run out of accelerator (like now) I'll just take my finger and work the CA. Then I hold it up in the air until dry. Then simply peel it off. There are downsides to this. You don't want to grab anything when finger is wet nor do you want to scratch anything south of the equator until dry.

  7. #6
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    Not quite sure what you mean rhossack but I am not sure I like the idea of using fingers to work the C A glue. I try to avoid touching it myself.
    Reality is no background music.
    Cheers John

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by munruben View Post
    Not quite sure what you mean rhossack
    Sorry I wasn't very clear in what I do.
    but I am not sure I like the idea of using fingers to work the C A glue. I try to avoid touching it myself.
    The problem is not the CA being on your finger.

    You just make sure you don't touch anything while it's wet other than the wood.

    My son is a carpet installer and sometimes he cuts himself pretty deep with his razor knife. Some CA and duct tape and he's good to go as it stops the blood.

    I spin the wood on my lathe at about 500 RPM.

    If I want to pop the grain in the wood I'll use BLO which also is an accelerate, but I apply it with a paper towel.

    Then I put a good amount of CA (medium or thick) on my finger.

    I apply the CA to the wood, trying to keep the coat as even as possible.

    Usually it takes two applications to cover the exposed portion of the wood.

    I let it spin for a couple of minutes until it's dry.

    Then get a sanding block with some 220 (I use abranet) and lightly sand it flat, continue to 600.

    Repeat 2-4 times until you get the depth you want.

    Then either buff it or I prefer to use the Micro-Mesh cloth backed sandpaper that goes from 1500 to 12000 grit for the final polish.

    You can peel the CA right off your finger when you're done.

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by rhossack View Post
    Then I put a good amount of CA (medium or thick) on my finger.
    The few times I've got CA on my finger by accident, I've almost ended up with a blister, it's heated up that much. Are we talking about he same CA here??

    Russell.
    Pen Affair Craft Supplies - Cheapest Pearl Ex & Pemo Polymer Clay in Australia
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  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoomerangInfo View Post
    The few times I've got CA on my finger by accident, I've almost ended up with a blister, it's heated up that much. Are we talking about he same CA here??

    Russell.
    I don't think so Russell. The only heat from this is what is generated by my finger moving back and forth over the wood.

    There is some heat as it cures but nothing like you describe.

    Maybe you're allergic to the stuff

    Ron

  11. #10
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    Thanks guys I will try bunnies.
    Mick

  12. #11
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    Must be a different type of CA, I usually use the 'Hot Stuff' brand, and that DOES get hot if you get it on you finger and melts through rubber gloves.

    If I run out of Accelerator, I'm using DJ's method of applying CA using the paper towel and its easy to know when the CA has set, just wait for the 'smoke' off the paper and its as good as set. Then I start the next coat.

    By the time I've applied the coat, seen the 'smoke' cut off the used bit of towel and got myself set for the next coat its usually between 15-30 seconds. which seems to allow for a nice steady rhythm without rushing.
    Rgds
    Rob.


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  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fireguard View Post
    If I run out of Accelerator, I'm using DJ's method of applying CA using the paper towel and its easy to know when the CA has set, just wait for the 'smoke' off the paper and its as good as set. Then I start the next coat.



    In fact, in my video, there is one coat applied without the accelerator
    Cheers

    DJ


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  14. #13
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    When I first started playing with the CA finish, I tried not using any accelerator. Once I began using the aerosol accelerator, I found that my finishes were smoother and required less sanding and they seemed more transparent as well. There was no "blooming", if you know what I mean. That's just my personal experience with the stuff, your mileage may vary.
    When all is said and done, there is usually a whole lot more said than done.

  15. #14
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    I purchased a box of mitre fix at bunnings Toowoomba at the weekend, $19.98.

    Terry

  16. #15
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    Just so everyone knows there were two boxs of Mitre fix at Bunnings Carseldine today at 12:00. I grabbed one. There may still be one left.

    BJ
    Want to find a timber supplier in Brisbane. Check this link. http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=74808

    My website. Moksha Writing Instruments.
    http://users.tpg.com.au/bjtunnie//Moksha.html

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