Thread: Beetles, bugs & borers - flaw or feature?

Originally Posted by BoomerangInfo

Hey All,

I'm making some heirloom pens for my siblings for Christmas. heirloom because I am using some Mango wood I have had for years that came from the home we all grew up in.

How this wood has quite a few holes and tunnels from various insects in it, which are showing in the turned blanks.

So my question is, are these faults you would normally throw away and start again, or do you think the marks can be considered features that "enhance" the final result and give it character, rather than just plain seamless wood? I'll post a pic when I get it finished and show you.

If you can answer based on two criteria. One being if you were producing items for sale, and another base don if you were producing items on request from material that has sentimental value.

Thanks. Russell.

I would say that these disfigurements enhances the appearance of the timber. Spalting is staining from fungus attack, and that makes an otherwise unattractive piece into an attractive piece.

So for both sale and sentimental value I would definitely not throw away the piece.

Timberbits

Your post reminded me of one I did this past summer and just had to post.

I would use CA to harden the the remains of the borer tracks and any other blemishes leave as an enhancement to the timber because it has sentimental value and has been requested to be made. As for selling the same pen to the public, it has character and each pen collector will see something different in the pen, I would limit them to say 5 on a table with other pens, if they sell make some more. If they don't sell, don't be dis heartened because what may be wow to one may not be to another. I think it was Peter (PenPal) that got hold of some of my Syrian Batu sapwood from Brett at last years Sydney show. The spalting in it was to good to just waste the sap so never look at a piece of wood and not think it has value. Nature has given you something to work with, give back to nature what you have created.

Originally Posted by BoomerangInfo

Hey All,
So my question is, are these faults you would normally throw away and start again, or do you think the marks can be considered features that "enhance" the final result and give it character, rather than just plain seamless wood? I'll post a pic when I get it finished and show you.
If you can answer based on two criteria. One being if you were producing items for sale, and another base don if you were producing items on request from material that has sentimental value.
Thanks. Russell.

I'd consider them a valuable part of the timber. As mentioned, each one becomes a one-of-a-kind and also tends to remind us that this is a product of nature, helped along by us. I'd keep the flaws for the same reason we turn natural edge bowls.. it really *is* part of the timber, so why hide it? I think the same reason holds for both criteria.
Look forward to seeing pics..

I think it depends on the scale of the "defects" with respect to the size of the work, but generally they work well as enhancements. On large (non-pen) pieces, almost any fault can be left open or filled. On pens in particular, tunnels up to a mm or two (e.g. from powder-post beetles) should be acceptable. But for functionality, they should be filled with contrasting CA or epoxy "mortar" with dust of any variety, so as to resist dirt accumulation in use.

Joe

Check out the "worthless wood" tutorial ("the pen shop" forum - actually, i dunno if its still there. i havent visited there in quite a while. it should be on the front page.) This tutorial will give you a few more ideas.

Originally Posted by ss_11000

Check out the "worthless wood" tutorial ("the pen shop" forum - actually, i dunno if its still there. i havent visited there in quite a while. it should be on the front page.) This tutorial will give you a few more ideas.

Yep, I have seen that one, and am keen to try it when I have a pressure pot and practiced casting a bit more, as I have a nice piece of something with a modest inclusion that I want to salvage.

The pieces I am using at the moment don't warrant that much work as the spots that are showing in the turned blanks are those where the wood has been turn to a powder like consistency in a few small tracks. I'm not sure what insect causes that. I'm just WOP'ing them now, and interestingly, when the WOP hits those spots, they are turning a very dark brown/almost black colour.

My only problem is it just keep soaking the stuff up, so they are leaving some slight depressions, so I have some filling to do, although leaving a slight texture wherethey are may not be an isue either, as long as they won't wear out.

Russell.

I love using borer tracks and knots. I don't have a pressure pot at the moment so I glue with Araltyte (normally Polyurathane), turn and fill voids with crushed turquoise stone and CA. I have also seen glitter used to very good effect in these forums too.

Note to self: get some glitter.

definitely a feature as long as they are not too big
I've filled with epoxy and coffee - seems to work well
thanks to whoever mentioned it a few months back
might try something other then coffee, have some brass filings from the local key cutter, should try them

Originally Posted by BoomerangInfo

My only problem is it just keep soaking the stuff up, so they are leaving some slight depressions, so I have some filling to do, although leaving a slight texture wherethey are may not be an isue either, as long as they won't wear out.

Russell.

I think if you get some lower grit (150 - 180) sandpaper and hold it under the blank to get up a bit of sawdust, then drizzle some thin CA on the sandpaper, it will make a slurry/paste that will fill in the depressions and help seal the wood. Once it dries you can sand it back leaving a round blank. Then you can sand and finish as usual.
.. or so I hear ..

Originally Posted by NewLondon88

I think if you get some lower grit (150 - 180) sandpaper and hold it under the blank to get up a bit of sawdust, then drizzle some thin CA on the sandpaper, it will make a slurry/paste that will fill in the depressions and help seal the wood. Once it dries you can sand it back leaving a round blank. Then you can sand and finish as usual.
.. or so I hear ..

I could do that, but I like the look of the defects as they are, just need to raise them maybe 1/4mm to level out, so I'll just keep trying extra WOP layers for now - just means a 3 day finish might become 5 days. Can't wait to get some Shellawax so I can finish a wooden pen in 1 day

Russell.

Originally Posted by BoomerangInfo

Can't wait to get some Shellawax so I can finish a wooden pen in 1 day

Russell.

even better when a whole pen takes less than an hour

Filling voids seems to work best for me if the filling is proud of the final surface. After final re-cutting and sanding to slice some of the embedded particles, an almost terrazzo (in miniature) appearance is achieved. All in one day too, if you start early and pace yourself.

Joe

OK I decided to go with the more natural feel, than layers of finish, so here's the result on one of the pens. My photography needs work. The finish is brighter than what the image shows.

Russell.