Thread: How do you keep blanks clean when sanding

Thanks again. I ordered the aluminium oxide wheel for my grinder as suggested. I'll see if I can get the right angles from that to sharpen the tools.

Folks. Here are the bushings I use when finishing a pen. They are from www.penturnersproducts.com. This is a yanky firm but I got a few extra's becuse of postage costs.

Originally Posted by gawdelpus

just keep a pot of water handy to dip the tool as you grind to keep it cool . Tool steel is not adversely affected by quenching ,but you don't want to overheat and "blue" the tools edge.

Not really recommended! Carbon Steel tools should never be dipped in water as it can ruin the temper. (As can "bluing" when sharpening.) HSS tools aren't as susceptible to this, however the rapid cooling can cause micro-fractures in the edge. Which gives pretty mush the same results as pitting.

Once the tool becomes uncomfortably hot to hold, it's really best put aside for a couple of mins to air cool.

Seriously.

I sent an email to the manufactueres of Micromesh in the USA. The reply is:

no I'm sorry - you're not going to be able to remove those types of marks with soap and water. You can contact our Australian distributors from our webpage at www.micro-surface.com There is a section on the left hand side of the page for locating distributors. I wish I had better news for you.

I put the micromesh pads through the washing machine twice but couldn't remove the stains. However, on trying them on a CA polished pen (as I should have done in the first place) they don't leave any stains or marks on the pen. So it seems they work well after the washing machine even though they don't look so pretty.

I must get some of those Delrin bushes from the US, particularly now that the Australian dollar is so strong against the US$.

G'day Plantagenon,

Do a search on the bushes, as they can be made from a cutting board. A lot cheaper than getting them from the US and a lot quicker. There are instructions on here from some very experienced pen makers, and if you ask the question you may even be able to buy them here in Aus.

Quicker delivery and supporting the country and your fellow pen turners

Ady

I TBC's so there is no need for bushings and I no longer use MM.
For Acrylics, PR's and CA I just sand with 400x, buff with Ultrafine Steel Wool and polish with Huts Ultra Gloss.

For timber I sand with 400x, buff with Ultrafine Steel Wool and finish with MINWAX Polyurethane and no buffing or polishing is required.

Les

Thanks for the source Les. I found a Bunnings Store near me that stocks it so I'm off to get some shortly. It's around $30 for just under a litre. I will give it a try and compare it to CA and Shellawax.

Originally Posted by plantagenon

Thanks for the source Les. I found a Bunnings Store near me that stocks it so I'm off to get some shortly. It's around $30 for just under a litre. I will give it a try and compare it to CA and Shellawax.

Have a look at this:
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f207/m...utorial-76543/

It may help you with the application.

Les

Thanks Les.

I didn't have much to do this morning other than to pop down to Bunnings as I am going to try the Minwax WOP you recommended. I thought about having to leave the blanks on mandrel to allow the Minwax to dry and that I would want to use the lathe in the meantime. So I knocked a rough drying box together with a bit of pine, flyscreen, staples and masonry spaghetti. It is rough but it holds all the blanks in place to allow the Minwax or glue on the blanks to dry. I have uploaded a couple of pics.

Les

I just read your article on finishing with Minwax. I hope I bought the right one as I have the Minwax Wipe on Poly clear gloss. It comes in a rectangular metal container.

One other question if you don't mind. In Step 4 of your article you mention using Micro Mesh before applying any sealants. Do you use the MM dry or wet at this stage?

Thanks

Originally Posted by plantagenon

Les

I just read your article on finishing with Minwax. I hope I bought the right one as I have the Minwax Wipe on Poly clear gloss. It comes in a rectangular metal container.

One other question if you don't mind. In Step 4 of your article you mention using Micro Mesh before applying any sealants. Do you use the MM dry or wet at this stage?

Thanks

Yes, you have the right can, the one I show in the tutorial is a bit thicker than the WOP and apparently can't be obtained in Australia.

If you read step 4 again you will see that I don't use MM, I use Ultrafine Steel Wool and sanding with 400x.
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f207/m...utorial-76543/

Les

Heya Plant,

Mate whitch bunnies did you get the wop from in brissy? just in case my local one doesn't supply it, i'd like to know of one for sure that does or isn't sold out of it. I'm pretty happy with my ca finish thus far and after i turn out my choppin board bushes i should be set. i'd still like to compare the wop (and thanks also to Les for the repost of the pdf) and give it a crack too.

Neal.

Neal

Its available from Mt Gravatt at Wecker Road or Underwood at Kingston Road. Some didn't have it but a phone call first will save you a drive. It is very easy to apply although I have only done one coat so far. Its slower drying than CA but a lot easier to use.