Thread: How do you keep blanks clean when sanding

Originally Posted by plantagenon

Thanks Les.

I didn't have much to do this morning other than to pop down to Bunnings as I am going to try the Minwax WOP you recommended. I thought about having to leave the blanks on mandrel to allow the Minwax to dry and that I would want to use the lathe in the meantime. So I knocked a rough drying box together with a bit of pine, flyscreen, staples and masonry spaghetti. It is rough but it holds all the blanks in place to allow the Minwax or glue on the blanks to dry. I have uploaded a couple of pics.

Looks like a handy tool, my only concern is that with any of the dip finishes you need to have the items vertical to allow the excess to run off evenly , if you hang them horizontally then the run off will pool to one side , I may have it wrong though as this is not one of the finishes I use Cheers John

Just lie it on its back and the holders are vertical. It can dry in either position as there are two bits of solid pine on 2 sides.

Plant,

Cheers mate for that info, i went to lismore today and had a visit with bunnies there, they stocked it so bought it, i also noticed in an identical tin beside it was a satin finish version, also by miniwax, i grabbed the clear gloss and a few drillbits for my sedona kit so i know what i'm doing tomorrow.

Neal.

Originally Posted by plantagenon

Les

There must be 2 copies of your article. I have correct one now thanks. The other one has step 4 as follows and was downloaded from DJ's

Step 4.

With the lathe running I continue sanding from 1500 down to 12,000 usingMicro Mesh
without stopping to sand between grits.
Once I am happy that the blank is sanded down to the correct diameter to match the pen kit fittings
and I have a nice smooth void free finish, I wipe the blank down with a tack cloth to remove any
dust.

There is only one version in the Tutorials.
DJ uploaded the revised version March 11, 2011.

You must have downloaded to old version.

Les

Mr. Les,

I hope your following this thread still, i have a couple of questions about the WOP, firstly is that if i use a thin CA as a void fill or sealing coat can the WOP be used over the top of it? and secondly how many poly coats do you commonly use?

Neal.

Originally Posted by thompy

Mr. Les,

I hope your following this thread still, i have a couple of questions about the WOP, firstly is that if i use a thin CA as a void fill or sealing coat can the WOP be used over the top of it? and secondly how many poly coats do you commonly use?

Neal.

Neal,

There is no problem applying MINWAX Poly over CA.
Just make sure it is fully cured and that the CA is finished with no sanding marks or turning rings as the poly acts like a magnifying glass and will show every little mark on the CA.

I apply 6 coats of MINWAX Clear Gloss Polyurethane on all my wood pen barrels.

Les

Thanks for your assistance Les. The Minwax WOP worked wonders with the blanks. They came up like mirrors. Next one I do I will put a coat of CA over the blank before the WOP just to fill in any small cracks in the timber. A much better finish than Shellawax although it takes a lot longer between coats. Still some sacrifice has to be made for perfection.

Okey Dokey. In the last couple of days I re-read all the threads and assistance offered and did the following to polish a blank.

I used Sika bond poly glue to glue the brass tubes into the blanks as this is supposed to dry to an elastic form which will help prevent the timber cracking. It does take a long while to dry so patience or a 6 pack or more is needed.

After turning the blanks I put 2 thick coats of CA over the timber and then sanded it back with 240 grit and then 400 grit. It fill up all the mistakes I made with the tools (I am a novice) and any ruts in the timber.

I then put another 10 coats of CA on thinly using craft foam as an applicator (Closed cell foam that I bought from a craft shop at Coopers Plains in Brisbane). It works really well and far better than the paper I tired to use. A great tip I got off here.

After the 10 coats of CA I then sanded the blanks with MM (right through the entire range to 12000). Then I applied coats of Minwax WOP, sanding after each 2 coats as recommeded by Les. Each coat on top of the CA gave the blanks more and more depth.

The result - I amazed myself totally. The best I have done so far.

Thank you everyone on here who has offered assistance. This is a great forum.

I still have a lot more to learn. By the way - the battery operated air flow dust mask I bought from Carbatec works brilliantly. No fogging up of glasses and just cool clean air to breath. You forget you have it on. Only downside is that I can't wear goggles as well over my glasses as the mask takes up too much room. Now all I have to do is get the DE because if I get one more mouthful of dust in my beer my whole tool set up will be for sale.

Thanks again.