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Thread: Blew up my GMC Lathe
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10th August 2012, 02:27 PM #16
Shoey,
Same folks who make Rikon also make the WoodFast, simply painted yellow instead of green with different name badge.
That lathe is about 1" higher swing and about 2 to 1 1/2 " longer than most other mini lathes, and you can buy an 16" bed extension, the price you mentions is about the going rate here in the US for the same lathe with a stand.
It is also a little more heavy than the Jet, the belt is easy to access and change, and changing the pully combo it easier also...over all, I try and sell my customers who are turning smaller projects the Rikon, (your WoodFast) over the Jet and the Delta mini lathes, your getting a better lathe for less cash."That's why I love my computer,,,,,,,, my friends live in it."
- Colin Greg, Barnsley, South Yorkshire, England
Pen Turner Extraordinary and Accidental Philosopher.
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10th August 2012 02:27 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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10th August 2012, 09:28 PM #17
Also Shoey, re the Woodfast lathe, I got mine directly from Woodfast. They go right over the lathe and tighten, adjust and check for faults before they ship to you. Really good people to deal with too. I think they are in Vic or SA. I got the bed extension + a selection of their Woodfast turning Chisels which are excellent quality. Very good service and the same price as from Carbatec.
I never forget anything I remember !!
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13th August 2012, 06:51 PM #18
Fingers crossed for a good Tax Return. LOL
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13th August 2012, 07:00 PM #19
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16th August 2012, 05:04 PM #20
Pariss: If I can make enough pens to sell that shouldnt be a problem!
Got my new gear from Timberbits yesterday and started turning up a carmine/black slim line. Looks really good, but I think my mandrel is a bit off centre. Not quite as clean on the joins as my second pen.
Just wandering if anyone else has had chest pain after turning acrylic. I wear a dust mask and glasses, but when roughing out the acylic seems to heat up and give of a very strong smell. Might give a rest for a few days.
Do you have to seal Acrylic pens with anything? At the moment I'm just polishing them with EEE wax and then assembling them.
Cheers
Shoey
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16th August 2012, 05:29 PM #21SENIOR MEMBER
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Shoey - you need to be careful of heating acrylics at every stage from cutting to length to finishing/sanding. Not only do they give off a nasty smell but you can distort the shape. Or so I've read, hasn't happened to me yet.
Most people wet-sand with micromesh and finish with a plastic (car) polish. As to brand, I suppose like everything that quality counts. I think some have tried brasso too. I'm using the last of the microgloss that came with my micromesh pads from GPW.
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16th August 2012, 05:49 PM #22
I wet sand with Micromesh as well, but even after I have finished and assembled the pen it still smells really strong. I have it infringing of me now and it's all I can smell. Is this normal?
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16th August 2012, 06:05 PM #23SENIOR MEMBER
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The smell of acrylics can linger a bit. This arvo I cut, drilled and glued 4 blanks, one of which is an acrylic. Two hours later I can only just smell the acrylic on my shirt but that might be my imagination.
I guess if you're messy with the mm slurry or don't have adequate dc and ventilation when turning/shaping, it could be on your hands and clothing. I suppose you might have to try a couple more and see if the problem occurs again. And maybe stick to woods.
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16th August 2012, 07:56 PM #24
Shoey
If you are getting chest pains when turning acrylics that suggests it is giving you a respiratory problem perhaps - check with your doctor. Acrylics can release a poison when turning them and irritate your breathing. They are certainly not as safe as timbers although even timbers will also release poisons.
Do yourself a favour and either invest in a powered mask (check Carbatec) or buy a chemical resistant mask from somewhere like Bristol Paints. Neither are cheap but its better than a lung transplant. With a good mask you can only smell clean air (if infact you can smell air) There are no fumes. A dust extractor is also essential to get dust and fumes out of your shed.
Greg
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17th August 2012, 06:24 AM #25
Hi Shoey. Number 1, Turning tools MUST be very sharp when doing acrylics. Go slowly & gently when turning so as not to create friction heat.
Number 2, wet sand with Micro Mesh, about 6 seconds per grade, don't build up heat with too much pressure.
Number 3, don't use EEE on the turned blank, try Brasso, again ONLY for about 6 seconds, don't build up friction heat !. Then use a very fine car polish such as Maguires speed glaze for final buff. Acrylics + heat don't mix well. Open up all your windows when turning too.I never forget anything I remember !!
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17th August 2012, 07:14 PM #26
Thanks guys. Will be looking into the powered mask.
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