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Thread: Bust out while turning
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28th March 2007, 04:20 AM #1Member
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Bust out while turning
I had a piece of Bloodwood blow out while turning. I was turning it down for a Slime Line pen and when I got kinda close to the bushung o.d. it busted out. The piece was stablized also. I was turning at 2800 rpms. Is there something else I need to do or change to keep this from happening? I had the one piece only and was really liking the color so far. What a bummer.
Thanks,
Steve
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28th March 2007 04:20 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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28th March 2007, 10:34 AM #2
It could have been any number of things, a defect in the wood, not properly glued to the brass tube. Could have been a little air pocket in there and it got hot and expanded.
Need to make sure that the bore of the hole is fully covered with glue and use a twisting motion when inserting tube which has been sanded to get full coverage.Cheers
DJ
ADMIN
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28th March 2007, 02:12 PM #3
yep agree with DJ.. bad glue up or getting to hot when turning or drilling causing fracture cracks
Toni
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28th March 2007, 03:14 PM #4Novice
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If I got it right, the wood was stabilized. Stabilized wood is much harder than untreated wood, but much more brittle and heat sensitive.
So you have to be ceareful when drilling. Use epoxy glue for glueing tubes, apply the glue inside blank and on the tubes. Very messy but worth it.
When turning I first remove wood from each end of the blank. I haven't worked with stab. bloodwood but worked with stab. burls and when I get close to bushings I reinforce them with thin CA and even though they are stab. they soak in the glue. One more thing - use sharp tools!
These steps will definitely reduce problems, since doing this - and it's been a while now - I haven't had any problems.
Hopes this helps.
Vlade
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28th March 2007, 05:36 PM #5
One other thing: when drilling hard blanks, stop for a few minutes when the drill-bit gets hot. If that is hot, can you imagine what the wood/acrylic is like inside that tiny hole? The blank can develop micro-fractures from the heat build-up that are only in the area around the tube... which, of course, is usually the only part that is left after turning!
I really don't recommend blowing it out with a compressor hose to cool it down either. Even if you don't have heat fractures, the rapid cooling can create then! DAMHIKT. (Now I wait until the drill bit is only warm to the touch and then I blow the bore out with the hose. )
- Andy Mc
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28th March 2007, 07:21 PM #6
sharp tools help too
Toni
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28th March 2007, 08:36 PM #7
Steve some times this is bound to happen too you ' if you could not save it don't worry too much" you will get some tricky blanks with these blanks after drilling l like too fill the inside hole with plenty of thin ca you might have too run the drill threw it again and l use a two pack glue for the brass tubes. Also next time you have a tricky blank keep stopping and checking the blank every time give it a dose of CA before you get too final size put a few coats of thin CA on it and leave it for a while to rest .
OLD DOG
Melb Vic
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28th March 2007, 11:36 PM #8SENIOR MEMBER
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Wow, great information I haven't had that much experience with stabalized woods. I must admit when it comes to drilling, I am a bit of a beast. I saw something on tv last week where the guy recommends using a urathane glue for the tubes because of its expanding/filling properties, of course, then you have the wait time for the glue to set. The ony urethane glue that I will use is SUMO glue. On wood, it sets solid enough to turn laminates in 45 minutes.
Rick
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