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Thread: CA/BLO Haze - GRRRRR
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4th September 2007, 01:50 PM #1
CA/BLO Haze - GRRRRR
Hey Ya' All -
Turning some pens today and while using the CA/BLO Finish technique I found some of my pens had a white haze. Any suggestions? I tried searching this forum before I posted but could not find anything.....
I have a feeling that my pens got a bit warm..... Am I close?
Thanks!
Jim AllenTurned Around in Idaho
Jim
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4th September 2007, 03:04 PM #2
Jim I don't know if I can help it appears to be the CA drying to quick.
I have used the Ca/BLO for the first time and finding it ok so far a bit different to my first go at just CA
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4th September 2007, 03:06 PM #3
moisture from some source...DNA not quite dry or even breathed on it in cool air
hth
Toni
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4th September 2007, 09:11 PM #4
I agree with Sam, drying too quickly. Did you use the thin laid thickly, as I have problems with that in voids and it goes white.
Neil____________________________________________Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new
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4th September 2007, 09:16 PM #5
Karl, sometimes when using accelerator this can also happen, maybe step back for 15 seconds then apply accelerator, or BlO, I have never used the BLO, so the members can guide you there. Amos
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4th September 2007, 09:17 PM #6
yep I dropped the BLO. Found I was getting a better finish without it
bye TOni
ps. I have also heard that stale DNA can cause the whiteness. I did a pen and got the white haze if you did a search you would find all the hints
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5th September 2007, 08:40 AM #7
The red mallee burl Sierra I posted was my first attempt at the CA / BLO finish it worked a treat I ran the thin CA on and then waited and ran a wet paper towel with BLO on it. Did this several times and used a finer sand between coats
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5th September 2007, 09:24 AM #8
Hey Jim,
I was reading (I think) Don Ward's tutorial, and I'm pretty sure it mentioned in there that if you use just a little too much BLO, it can cause ghosting, sort of like layer after layer of superglue that didn't quite adhere, which ends up being cloudy/hazy
What I've been doing with my applications is testing how stiff the little paper towel pad is after each application. I've seen some hazing sometimes, and noticed that the cured CA/BLO mix on the paper towel applicator has been kinda 'chewy' or almost flexible, instead of hard and shiny like it should be when this happens. I cut back on the BLO a little, and the problem goes away, as long as I take the time to sand any white stuff off before I continue.
Hope this helps. I'm still trying to perfect the process myself, or at least find my 'version' of it that works consistently."If at first you don't succeed, destroy all evidence that you tried." - Stephen Wright
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5th September 2007, 12:08 PM #9
Thanks for the advice. After reading your post(s) Im going to try less BLO and see how that affects things. I have also noticed that when Im turning and going through the finishing process (including CA/BLO) is that everything gets warm. mandrel, wood, ect. Could this be forcing out moisture of wood that has a high moisture content or higher than it should be?
I have had some really nice success with the CA BLO finish and for the most part I have had real "WOW!" factor to my finishes... This is secretly done while im burried in my shop and the kids and wife are asleep!
The final finish on pens seem to be the most tweeky and everyone has an opinion on the subject... Dang this is fun stuff! Thanks for you support and helpful advice!Turned Around in Idaho
Jim
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5th September 2007, 01:04 PM #10
That's the other thing I've noticed, the heat. I know it's supposed to get warm, but sometimes I put on too much of both the BLO and the CA and it'll even smoke a bit - I don't think that's good for any wood. If you've got moist wood, I would imagine that this would bring the moisture out for sure, but most blanks that you get from the major stores are plenty dry.
Also, of note, I've been putting the BLO on the wood (a small dab on my paper towel foldie) first, then doing one quick pass with med thick CA, not putting on more than maybe a drop or two for every 2 inches per pass. Then just do the side-to-side wiggly shimmy for about 10 seconds, and it kicks off perfectly about every time, unless I've screwed up the CALO (whoa, rogue smiley, CA to BLO, that is) ratio. Is that about what you've got going for quantity? Also, what RPM you set to on the lathe for this? I've been having a great run of luck at about 2500 using the above method, but I've not been noticing the whole assembly heating up much.
Google Don Ward's CA/BLO tutorial and just take a quick look. Out of all of them, his seems to work the best for me as far as the steps go. I tried a few of the others, and had zero luck with those that use the CA first, then the BLO. heh...not sure why...I think you're right, everyone's got their own finish religious practice, and it just comes down to monkeying with it until you find what's right for you.
I tell you though, the CA/BLO is great, but the wet sanding with the CA/sawdust slurry has become a major step for me (unless the wood color contrast is really heavy, and then I don't like to muddy the colors up).
You want a quick CA/BLO boot camp? Do what I did, and grossly over-turn a couple of blanks (unplanned, of course ) and then build up a 1/16" finish to get back to normal size. Took me about 350 really thin coats, and some sanding passes but by the end, I'd worked out a lot of bugs and kind of established a comfy routine."If at first you don't succeed, destroy all evidence that you tried." - Stephen Wright
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5th September 2007, 03:16 PM #11
Also, of note, I've been putting the BLO on the wood (a small dab on my paper towel foldie) first, then doing one quick pass with med thick CA, not putting on more than maybe a drop or two for every 2 inches per pass. Then just do the side-to-side wiggly shimmy for about 10 seconds, and it kicks off perfectly about every time, unless I've screwed up the CALO (whoa, rogue smiley, CA to BLO, that is) ratio. Is that about what you've got going for quantity? Also, what RPM you set to on the lathe for this? I've been having a great run of luck at about 2500 using the above method, but I've not been noticing the whole assembly heating up much.
To answer you questions :
The Ratio of CA to BLO has more to due with what the "film" of BLO looks like than how much. I have noticed that if i do just under a smooth slick of BLO on the stock and then add the CA, in a streaming drop (?) I get the best results. If you have BLO flinging off or forming ridges you have toooo much. I use a "Brawny Table napkin" and keep it in contact with the turning stock while producing my finish. After my finish is completed I have a nice half pike on the napkin where the CA as coated the napkin. Very smooth and glass like, when this is happening I get my best results.
I generally finish around 2500, have not went slower or faster yet. Maybe I need to test this... whats your thoughts?
I do know that when I get the best result, the cure odor kills my eyes! Man that's terrible stuff.... Sure makes my pens stand out! ... not the odor but the finish .
Ok.. I better get to bed.. My wife is hollering at me!
JimTurned Around in Idaho
Jim
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5th September 2007, 04:23 PM #12
I use the CA /Blo way.Have tried without blo but I feel that the Blo helps to spread the CA more Even and also acts as a accelerator with out going white.
If you fill voids with ca then let it dry naturally.
Terry
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