Thread: CA drying time between coats

Using the accelerator coats can be applied immediately without any drying time between, it works for me. I also have tried a number of different papers and tissues but have found tabs of toilet paper doubled over a few times again works for me and always leaves a nice even thick coat using the thin CA.
I also go up through the grades of MM but never had any issues sanding or rubbing through.


Tony.

Like Tony I have no problems with rubbing through with the ca even when using the full range of MM. I use folded paper towel and hold it against the spinning blank to compress it a bit before applying glue to the towel. Maybe just slows it down from absorbing the glue as quickly, maybe does nothing and is just a habit. Usually I don't use the first one or two grades of MM unless the ca hasn't gone on as smoothly as it does normally.

Here's a link to David's (Timberbits) method of applying 20 thin coates of CA. This is how I do it, and have always got wonderfull results.
How I apply 20 thin coats of CA as a finish « TimberBits Blog

Here's how to use Micro Mesh. Cheers.
Final buff before the assembly process. « TimberBits Blog

When applying the CA I only apply enough pressure on the paper towel to spread the glue along the blank. This means it is just lightly touching the blank. How much pressure are you applying?
It is easy to build up 0.2mm on the diameter with the 20 coats this way, giving you plenty to work with in the sanding and polishing process.
I only apply accelerator after every 3 coats.

Thanks all.

I think perhaps I was holding the paper towel too firmly against the blank and not getting a thick enough coat on. It never happens when I use closed cell foam to apply CA but the risk of getting runs along the blank increases greatly and then its back to the 120 grit sandpaper.

Been following this thread for a bit and this is my take on applying and finishing CA. I use paper towel, 20 coats of thin CA, 400 grit wet and dry and Micro Mesh. Now I don't use the drip method that David uses, must have to try it one day but as they say, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". When it comes to paper towel, don't be cheap, buy one that has a decent thickness, I use Viva towel. If you can get the blue workshop paper towel that is good too. I fold the towel so I have a 1" / 25mm wide strip and that I have the back of the towel showing, because the surface is smoother than the front.

I run my lathe at it's slowest speed which is around 385rpm. I run a bead of CA across the towel and make a light pass left to right, then right to left. Too much CA and dry time is a bit longer than normal, too little and it dries of too quick. I do not use accelerator. Experiment with how much you need to use, it doesn't take long. It will vary if you use medium or thick CA as well. I have noticed when I am using thin CA I have run the back of my finger against the blank and this dries the CA.

Treecycle's maths is pretty close to mine, 20 coats of thin CA is roughly 0.2 mm. I then wet sand with the 400 grit wet and dry to smooth the CA out. I then sand the blank with the grain with the wet and dry and once I have removed any circular scratches I then work through the different grades of Micro Mesh, wet sanding again. If you sand through 20 layers of CA then you are being to heavy handed in the sanding, it needs to be done light and gently.

After that I buff the finish out. This my take on a stamp pen blank finished with CA, I turn the timber blank a bit smaller and glue the stamps on and finish with CA as I don't have a casting set up. The last 2 photos are blue dyed Hoop Pine Burl finished with CA. My method and techniques aren't gospel nor are anyone's else. Each has developed their own technique as will all new comers. This is what I do and people may be able to tweak it to suit their own method.

Cheers
Darren

Biggest problem with using the thin CA only techniques is that it doesn't fill imperfections well - see Bdar's green blank for example on right hand end (sorry Bdar, but the photo is handy and they are clearly visible, so good example). But when it does you often end up with white spots. There is also the possibility of sanding through the finish if you get carried away, but as you usually polish when finished, often it can't be seen for a while. A thickness of 0.2mm is still pretty thin.

I use 3 coats of thin, then swap to either medium or thick for another 6-12 coats, takes more work to ensure you have a perfect flat finish but does result in a better finish IMHO. I oversand the blank, then apply the CA finish to bring it back to the correct size, usually the finished product is an extra >0.5mm dia (ie 0.25mm thick min all over after finishing).

If you want a demo Plantagenon, you are welcome to come down and have a look, just have to wait until November as I am off to Melbourne Wednesday.

Cheers

Thanks Neil

I will take you up on the demonstration. November is fine as I am off to Italy in 2 weeks for a holiday (not paid for by pen sales)

I did notice the imperfections in the finish of the blanks you mentioned. It is only when you start making pens that you pay a very careful eye to every photo, including whether the blank meets up perfectly with the nib or cap. Recently, I have managed to fill in the ruts in the blanks just by building up more and more thin CA layers very slowly, but it is a painful process. I have also had the problem with the white spot when I tried to correct an error too quickly and I think it ruins a pen. I wouldn't sell a pen with white spot so those with it remain in the tool room for office use.

I was looking at a thread that mentioned PPG Duracryl lacquer and dipping so I am also going to try that for the hell of it. I spent this afternoon building the hanging box to dry the pens after the dipping. I am still in the early stage of experimenting with a variety of finishes until I find something that works for me. I tried Les's WOP and the finish is brilliant but it take me a week to finish a pen due to drying times and WOP does show up any imperfection that CA might hide.

Thanks for your offer and I will definitely take it up as you might have the solution for me.

Thanks

Greg

Originally Posted by dai sensei

Biggest problem with using the thin CA only techniques is that it doesn't fill imperfections well - see Bdar's green blank for example on right hand end (sorry Bdar, but the photo is handy and they are clearly visible, so good example). But when it does you often end up with white spots. There is also the possibility of sanding through the finish if you get carried away, but as you usually polish when finished, often it can't be seen for a while. A thickness of 0.2mm is still pretty thin.

I use 3 coats of thin, then swap to either medium or thick for another 6-12 coats, takes more work to ensure you have a perfect flat finish but does result in a better finish IMHO. I oversand the blank, then apply the CA finish to bring it back to the correct size, usually the finished product is an extra >0.5mm dia (ie 0.25mm thick min all over after finishing).

If you want a demo Plantagenon, you are welcome to come down and have a look, just have to wait until November as I am off to Melbourne Wednesday.

Cheers

Neil,

Don't be sorry mate, if it serves as a learning aid mate all is good. Funny, I must have read your mind today. I did a Red Mallee Jr Gent V.2 with 4 coats of thin and then 10 coats of medium CA. As you said a bit more work and cure time but came out well. Will have to wait till Thursday morning to finish it though.

Cheers
Darren

Originally Posted by bdar

Neil,

Don't be sorry mate, if it serves as a learning aid mate all is good. Funny, I must have read your mind today. I did a Red Mallee Jr Gent V.2 with 4 coats of thin and then 10 coats of medium CA. As you said a bit more work and cure time but came out well. Will have to wait till Thursday morning to finish it though.

Cheers
Darren

Not just cure time, dam wrinkles if you are not careful, they take the real time (to sand out) .

Originally Posted by dai sensei

Not just cure time, dam wrinkles if you are not careful, they take the real time (to sand out) .

Ah yes that wonderful orange peel effect that we love to hate