Thread: CA finish problem

You get wrinkles when you try to apply to thick a layer in one pass. Sand back, but only until the lumps are gone, you should be able to do it with XXXX steel wool, or similar fine grade sand paper.

I love the way the masters can guess your error in one. The end fit wasnt great and I had problems turning it from stage one. The nib end isnt smooth and had to much glue that didnt sand back well. Think I will try and resand but use the kit for another pen and keep the barrel in my collection of mistakes to learn from

DSCN0984 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
DSCN0988 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

Doesn't look too bad on the pics actually but you can see it better in the flesh. Keep at it, you learn from your own mistakes.

Originally Posted by munruben

Doesn't look too bad on the pics actually but you can see it better in the flesh. Keep at it, you learn from your own mistakes.

I agree with Munruben. Your pen looks great from the posted pix.

From my (very short) experience with pen turning you can load too much CA glue before applying accelorator. In any case if all looks bad, sand it off and go again.
It can never hurt to start again IMHO
Dave

I only ever use thin CA on my pens and so far have not had any major problems. If you hold the paper towel on the blank for too long, or too hard, it will start to dry the CA and that will give you a rough finish. With the lathe running at about 500 rpm I just lightly hold the towel against the wood so that it is only just touching, and then put a drop of CA on the blank in line with it. Move the towel back and forth slightly to spread the glue, still with a very light touch. I normally start at one end and work my way along to the other by applying about 4 drops evenly along the length. Apply a very light spray of accelerator after the first coat and then every 3 - 4 coats after that.
Some people use medium or thick CA, but the method above works for me.
Hope this is of some use.

It is an aquired art,and takes perserverance, I redid one today that a few months ago I thought was passable ,it wasn't I use Neils method of a thin layer of thin ca to seal the blank, then three layers of medium or thick but thinly applied ,then a dash of fixer,sand back to smooth no wrinkles , then three more coats ,same again a quick spray of fixer and sand smooth again ,by then you have enough buildup to sand with Micro mesh through the range and a little polish to buff it all up.basically the same finish as acrylics ,without the CA hehe. For more depth of shine more coats can be done ,there are many ways to do CA finishes ,just try till you find what you are comfortable with . cheers ~ John

Applying any finish takes lots of pratice, failures and patience to come up with what works best for you.
Keep'em comming.

This is how I Apply and finish with Medium CA Only (No BLO)!

1. With the lathe running at turning speed apply 6-8 drops of Med CA to form a
puddle on a small folded piece of blue shop towel.

2. Make one pass along the length of the blank.

3. Immediately stop the lathe and quickly wipe the blank length wise with the
remaining CA on the shop towel while rotating the lathe by hand. This will
smooth out any turning rings before the CA has a chance to dry.

4 Let dry for a couple of minuets. (Do not use accelerator!) There are too many curing
problems associated with accelerators.

5. With the lathe running, buff with Super Fine Steel Wool.

6. With the lathe off, rub down the blank length wise with Super Fine Steel Wool to remove any turning rings.

7. Wipe down the blank with a tack cloth.

8. Repeat steps 1 thru 7 applying Med CA for as many coats you want to get some depth to the finish, buffing with Super Fine Steel Wool and wiping down with a tack cloth between each coat.

9. I usually apply 6 - 10 coats of CA to get some depth to the finish.

10. Finish with the lathe running, buff the final coat of Med CA with the Super Fine Steel Wool.

11. With the lathe off rub down the blank length wise with Super Fine Steel Wool to remove any turning rings.

12. Wipe the blank down with a tack cloth.

13. With the lathe running, Polish with Liquid Brasso or Hut Ultra Gloss Plastic Polish.

Works great for me!

Les

A couple of questions for Les.
What are the problems you associate with using accelerator on CA?
Is your superfine steel wool equivelent to our 0000 grade or finer?
Thanks.

Dallas,

From my experience accelerator causes whit spots in the CA.

The Super-fine Steel Wool I use is equivalent to #000/0000.

Steel Wool - Lee Valley Tools


Les

Thanks Les

Sorry can't help as i do not use CA finish I only use Minwax wipe on poly.

Takes longer but IMHO its the best I got it from the finish master Les Elm, thank you Les