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  1. #1
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    Red face ca glue as a high finish on pens

    Is there anyone who can tell me the secrete to using CA (super glue) to get a high shine finish on pens. Do you use the thin medium or thick glue....how many coats would be required etc . After several years I have only just decided to do a few pens for friends and would like some direction please. Is CA the best finish or is there something better??
    Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

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  3. #2
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    May 2017
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    I love ca finish matey and an easy high gloss finish

    keep on plugging away

  4. #3
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    For me in Townsville when humidity is high do better with medium . But in Winton when was 45 degree heat I used the thick. Check out YouTube's there so many clips to help you learn it as it brilliant. Make sure invest in top quality paper like viva also found this helps hugely. I do not ever use accelerator myself. Turn the lathe to a slower speed. I found when first started to use layer of boiled linseed oil then super glue and it helps.

    This clip may get you started anyway https://youtu.be/Y8wdHFrVadY

    keep on plugging away

  5. #4
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    https://youtu.be/rW5QOywF-fc

    keep on plugging away

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by moodg View Post
    Is there anyone who can tell me the secrete to using CA (super glue) to get a high shine finish on pens. Do you use the thin medium or thick glue....how many coats would be required etc . After several years I have only just decided to do a few pens for friends and would like some direction please. Is CA the best finish or is there something better??
    Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
    I also like to add the most important part of getting a fantastic ca glue finish to glow it so important to have a good sanded pen before even attempt to ca you will find this truly helps

    keep on plugging away

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by moodg View Post
    Is there anyone who can tell me the secrete to using CA (super glue) to get a high shine finish on pens. Do you use the thin medium or thick glue....how many coats would be required etc . After several years I have only just decided to do a few pens for friends and would like some direction please. Is CA the best finish or is there something better??
    Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
    How many coats anywhere from 5 to 10 or more
    as many as nessecary it takes to get what you want. Hope my thoughts help you out some


    keep on plugging away

  8. #7
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    There are a few WA pen guys on the forums that hopefully can show you how its done, U-Tube is good, but nothing beats being shown IMO.

    Personally I use thin to start with, 2-4 coats to get a decent bond, then go to medium or thick for another 6-12 coats (some times both), evening out the coatings every 3-4 layers with OOOO steel wool. Using thin all the way is easier for some but it only works on timber only pens and is very easy to sand through due to the overall thin coating. Thin only will not fill voids/cracks/uneven surfaces, without turning white, hence why I use medium to thick. Once you get into hybrids, pen blanks made from multiple mediums (worthless wood casts etc) you need the thicker CA's to create a high-build coating to give it strength and even out any blemishes from sanding (the mediums sand at different rates).

    My high end pens have a 0.2-0.5mm CA coating built up with up to 30 layers to give a good high depth/ high gloss finish.
    Neil
    ____________________________________________
    Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new

  9. #8
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    Nov 2013
    Location
    Bonbeach, Vic
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    Default CA finish

    Good advice from mummatoni and Dai. Also see Timberbits site - David has many helpful hints.

    Some people don't like the high gloss that CA gives, but it is probably the most durable finish for a pen that will actually be used.

    In my experience sand to perhaps 800 grit.
    Then CA thin (x 5 -10 coats) to give a good seal followed by CA medium (x 5-10 coats) to fill any minor cracks or voids. Even tiny ones will show up in the final piece.
    Many thin (as in don't slop it everywhere) coats gives a good finish.
    Then lightly sand back with wet sanding like Micromesh pads running up through the grits.
    You can finish with a plastic polish if you like.

    Final tip - if using CA, once you've turned and sanded the pen barrels remove them and lightly spray the mandrel and bushings with WD40 or similar before opening the CA bottle. (Stops the glue from attaching your shiny pen blank to the lathe.)

    good luck!
    phil

  10. #9
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    Thanks to all those that replied to my post. I have watched a few youtubes and with the advise given I should be able to have a good outcome on my first attempt. It has cleared up the use of the thick/thin question and the little tip on use of wd40 will come n hand. Thanks again..now up to the shed and have ago.

  11. #10
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    Cool never used wd40 just when waxed I waxed my bushes and never had issues but always happy to learn new ways so thanks very much

    keep on plugging away

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by mummatoni View Post
    I also like to add the most important part of getting a fantastic ca glue finish to glow it so important to have a good sanded pen before even attempt to ca you will find this truly helps.....
    This is true, but do not go above 600 grit, actually 400 is fine. I used to go much higher but found down the track in hot conditions the CA coating can debond.
    Neil
    ____________________________________________
    Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new

  13. #12
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    Nov 2013
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    Bonbeach, Vic
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    Quote Originally Posted by dai sensei View Post
    This is true, but do not go above 600 grit, actually 400 is fine. I used to go much higher but found down the track in hot conditions the CA coating can debond.

    Ahhh - I've heard of this but not actually seen one. Makes sense to stop at 400 and leave something for the glue to key in to.
    thanks

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by dai sensei View Post
    This is true, but do not go above 600 grit, actually 400 is fine. I used to go much higher but found down the track in hot conditions the CA coating can debond.
    Well I always gone through all the way to micromesh and was living in temperature of 42 degree Celsius and never had that issue once. Maybe because was done in those temps it lasted. I know since moving to Townsville with cooler temps and humidity now took some experimenting as had to nearly relearn how to do it as kept getting white marks in it. So perhaps weather may play into aiding you

    keep on plugging away

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
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    Default My Technique for CA on pens

    I love making pens. Its so easy and everyone loves them.

    The CA process is dead easy.

    Process
    -- Sand timber to 400 grit (as said above, more doesn't help)
    -- 2 or 3 light coats of thin CA, 800rpm
    -- 3 coats of medium, 800rpm
    -- A ***very*** light mist of accelerator sprayed from a distance of about 15-20cm (the very lightest, gentlest puff you can possibly get out of the can, no more)
    -- Let it spin for 5 seconds between coats/accelerator puffs (to get rid of the heat)
    -- Sand with 800 wet and dry at 1000rpm until all the bright low spots are removed (they look like bright spots)*
    -- Then use micromesh 2400 and 4000 with water (protect lathe with a towel). *
    -- Then Meguiars SwirlX car polish

    Sanding is not static. Move the paper left-right rapidly.

    * Speed is 800rpm for me. Set the speed so the water beads and looks "alive" on the rotating pen, but won't come off due to being centrifuged.


    On CA
    Until recently, I used BSI Thin and Medium in 2oz bottles and Hafele Aktivator both from the local hobby shop. Now I buy Hafele directly (by the box!), I use their CA in medium and still use their Aktivator. The thin BSI is still used as Hafele only do medium.

    BSI's are about $15 per bottle which last for over 80 pens, so its good value.

    The thin makes the grain pop, fills small gaps and settles the job down. The medium adds build.

    Ive watched other people do their pens and think it is way overdone. 2 thins and 3 mediums builds a thick coating.

    BSI and Hafele CA with Hafele Aktivator wont give you the White Spots of Death unless you mist it too heavily... do only the very lightest puff you can possibly extract. To give example, I mark my can with the number of pens and puffs used (with a sharpie). I get 90 pens and almost 500 puffs per 200ml can.


    On Applying CA
    I was shown a technique by Corbs (of the forum) and is the same technique as shown by Timberbits videos using the paper towel sheet folded into strips.

    -- Using a Kleenex Viva Tough Wave towel (https://www.woolworths.com.au/shop/p...er-towel-white)
    -- This brand won't get hot, catch fire or smoke on you. Others do. Given an 6 pack is $8 its hardly worth experimenting. Viva works perfectly for this job.
    -- Fold a single sheet in half, 4 times. (half, half, half, half). NOT roll it, halve it. It will end up about 15cm wide
    -- Holding the thing like handing over a ticket at the theatre, place it under the pen (left or right, doesn't matter) and apply a little CA in a dribble from the top at the same time as moving it to the other side. This takes 2 seconds. No less, no more. Make it a smooth process as if you are using a metal lathe!
    -- Move the towel left-right three times while the CA heats and hardens. This bit is very rapid. All six passes takes < 2 sec). No need to press. You will feel the towel get hot. Speed of the lathe and speed of movement is important. If it gets sticky you have taken too long. Make it fast moves...
    -- Puff of Aktivator
    -- SNIP OFF that end you used with scissors into a bucket (the act of snipping off the end gives you the 5 seconds the Aktivator needs to go-off, plus ensures you wont scratch your next layer accidentally with the previously used section)
    -- repeat

    This process will ensure your CA is laid down very flat and the first "remove the shinies" 800-sandpaper-step is very quick.

    Care: The snipped off ends can get hot and sometimes smoke a bit. Leaving them in a pile unattended is probably a bad idea.
    Care 2: I know people who have developed a sensitivity to CA fumes, so using your dust extractor to remove fumes is sensible.


    The whole job is done in less than 5 minutes.

    Dead easy. Absolutely guaranteed. No white spots and super neat finish.


    All these pens are using MapleMans timbers and done in one afternoon using this technique:

    DSC01497 (1024x649).jpg

  16. #15
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    Sep 2010
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    Brisbane
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    Absolutely BRILLIANT description, of a proven technique - The proof is shown in the finished product.

    Thanks So Much.


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