Thread: Coating with minwax poly rub on

Greg I have found that humidity plays a huge part in how this stuff dries, but the end result is worth it.

Greg,

Applying heat should also assist with the drying time of Poly.
Cheers
Tony.

As the answers above any moisture in the air and it will take time. On a hot dry day I can re-coat in 20 minutes well worth playing with

It has now been 2 days and the damn thing is still sticky. I done want to use the kitchen oven to bake it. Will Acetone remove the Minwax or will it have seeped in to far to the wood - it is a bigger piece of wood. I have to get it all finished in the next 2 days and it is becoming a pain

How about a biggish watt incandescent lamp or heater fan inside a box or under a shroud. Taking obvious steps to keep the box or shroud from becoming part of a fire of course.

With my luck today Doug, I'd burn the bloody house down.

What timber is it Greg? two days is way to long it may have something to do with the timber itself.

Originally Posted by tdrumnut

What timber is it Greg? two days is way to long it may have something to do with the timber itself.

Not wrong there Doug. One piece is Silky Oak and the other is Euc Burl. They are about 2 x 3 inches and 3 x 4 inches in size. I will have to work out some way of removing the MinWax so I can put something else on - but what?

Was Trev asking about timber types. Silky should not be an issue - hardly a resinous timber, is it ? Not sure about the euc as species vary.

Minwax WOP suggested cleanup is Turps (and white spirits from memory). My goto cleanup on unknowns is meths to start with then something more agressive if needed. Only used Minwax on harder timbers and always found it sits on top not sucked into pores.

Have you got time for a white shellac finish if starting again ?

Originally Posted by plantagenon

Not wrong there Doug. One piece is Silky Oak and the other is Euc Burl. They are about 2 x 3 inches and 3 x 4 inches in size. I will have to work out some way of removing the MinWax so I can put something else on - but what?

Automotive lacquer thinner (acetone, isopropyl, ethyl and methyl alcohols, MEK), Kleenstrip paint remover, or your local equivalent (contains methylene chloride and toluene) will both remove polyurethane.

Cheers,
Rob

Greg, you can safely remove the sticky with Turps

Thanks all - I got stuck into it with acetone this morning and managed to remove all the sticky stuff. I let it dry for a while and then thought, why not MinWax again. This time I read the instructions on the can - SHAKE WELL BEFORE USE. When all else fails ......

I also rubbed in the Minwax with less on the cloth as mentioned on the can. It seems to be drying but tomorrow will tell. I didn't want to change finishes in case there was a a chemical conflict that would stuff up the wood totally. I will keep you posted.

Well Greg, how did you go with the second go with WOP?
I am have a similar problem with a Blackwood Occasional table I have turned. First coat OK! I lightly rubbed it back and gave it a second coat but it hasn't dried completely. Still tacky! I will give it another day and see what gives. And yes I did shake the can first.

I finally got it to dry just through time. The Minwax on the Euc burl has come up well and has a shine on it, although I regret not using CA. The minwax on the silky oak is patchy and really just crap. I have an idea the SO might have had a paraffin wax coating on it for drying. This is probably the problem if the paraffin has got into the timber. I will use acetone and take the minwax off before trying something else.