Thread: Cracky burl turning? I have issues!

Is it a pen you are turning, or something else? What are you turning with - lathe/speed/tool/approach etc? Burls do need special attention, depends on what you are turning, but certainly not impossible.

Here are a few tips to help with burls.
First make sure you have good glue coverage when glueing the tubes in the blanks, work the glue in fully and look inside to be sure all the wood is covered - this strengthens the blank from the inside.
Next, after squaring the blanks, coat the ends with CA glue, rubbing the CA so it completely covers the blank ends.
When you turn, use light cuts and sharp tools. I often try to cut from the outside towards the centre when turning the ends; but this is tricky since there is no blank to rub the bevel on when you start the cut.
For many burls, I stop turning about 1mm too large, then soak the blank in CA. Allow a couple minutes to dry and then proceed.
One last tip: if the above steps do not work and a chunk breaks out, do not give up on that blank. If the chunk is big, glue it back on with CA. If the chunk is small, collect some shavings off the lathe and glue them into the hole with CA. When the pen is done, only you will know that there was a failure in the blank because the repair will look like a normal swirl of grain with a slight hint of bark inclusion.

Make sure your tools are razor sharp and take off very thin cuts at a time. Stop every so often and if you see a crack appearing put a bit of CA on it before you begin again. Keep repeating that process and you should be able to turn the blank without getting large chips taken out. When you get close to the tube you an finish off using sand paper to cut the blank to size. That will avoid a last second chip.

I'm cutting a reel seat for a fishing rod using a steel rod as a mandrel and caps of waste timber between ends, the blank is not glued to the mandrel, using wax to create a snug fit so I can get it off once turned.

Tools are sharp, I touch them up often, but they are cheap steel and blunt quickly so more touch ups will be needed by the sound of it.

The last 2 I did cracked at the ends so I'll librally cote them for the next attempt. Will also try to slow down with the tools and take less off. This is probably lack of experience but will make a conscious effort to slow down.

Thanks.

Hey Pilchard,

You haven't said what type of Burl you have, some of it can be down right nasty to use, I have had some success with some real ####ty ones by liberally coating the inside after I have drilled them, with thin CA this has helped me (for pens, then you just epoxy the tubes in) don't know about your situation, but it may help The most consistant burl I have used is York Gum, nice and tight and minimal cracking.

HazzaB

Old Red Gum burl. It's very dense compared to others I have tried. I have a couple of bits here that have less cracks so I'll have another go today using the adobe tips.Thanks