Thread: Dead Finish Si

I can see what you mean, some of those desert timbers really take a lot of time to get them just right. i usually put shellawax on first to seal them and then WOP.

I wonder if CA would go over Shellawax?
I read somewhere, that someone was putting sanding sealer on first, before Ca.

Might have to have a bit of a try when time permits.

Originally Posted by Ironwood

I wonder if CA would go over Shellawax?
I read somewhere, that someone was putting sanding sealer on first, before Ca.

Might have to have a bit of a try when time permits.

CA will go over shellawax no problems I have done it quite a few times and then used WOP over that.

Do yo find that WOP gives an advantage over CA?

I have never used WOP before, always been put off by the time it takes, s'pose I'm just an impatient bugger.

I used the Lacquer dipping method for a while, I was getting good results. But changed back to CA after reading on the IAP where people were reporting that it was going brittle and cracking after a couple of years.

I would love to find a better way than CA, it can be so cantankerous at times.

I know that WOP does take more time but IMHO it gives a better finish. As far as standing up to the job I have never seen any cracking on any of my finishes. I use 20 coats normally and it is solid with lots of depth. the most important things are to get the surface correct first as that is the basis of an excellent finish, Always sand longwise after each grit or polish including the the final buffing.

I hope this helps decide.

Looks good from here well done

hi ironwood just an inquiry where does dead finish come from and how does aquire some from john t

Ironwood, I like the blank and pen, if you sand back the CA, sometimes a once off coat of BLO will help disguise where some of the CA didn't fully come off!, so a coat of BLO then CA and it does help, Amos

Originally Posted by Simomatra

I know that WOP does take more time but IMHO it gives a better finish. As far as standing up to the job I have never seen any cracking on any of my finishes. I use 20 coats normally and it is solid with lots of depth. the most important things are to get the surface correct first as that is the basis of an excellent finish, Always sand longwise after each grit or polish including the the final buffing.

I hope this helps decide.

Sam, the quality of the finishes I've seen from you and others who use WOP speaks for itself.
My trouble is I am time poor. My wife and I run a very busy shop, so any spare time is very valuable.
For now I think I am stuck with the CA, as it can be a quick finish, if you nail it first time.

Originally Posted by Rum Pig

Looks good from here well done

Thanks , it doesnt look too bad until you get it into good reflective light.

Originally Posted by John T

hi ironwood just an inquiry where does dead finish come from and how does aquire some from john t

Hi John, Dead Finish, aka Red Lancewood is mainly found in Western Queensland.
I got a piece in a timber swap I did with a guy out west.

Originally Posted by Woodenink

Ironwood, I like the blank and pen, if you sand back the CA, sometimes a once off coat of BLO will help disguise where some of the CA didn't fully come off!, so a coat of BLO then CA and it does help, Amos

Thanks Amos, I will give the BLO a try next time.
This is one of the first "sand through's" that I have persisted with and tried to refinish. After a few failed attempts at refinishing early on, I normally throw them in a box I have on the bench ( it's got quite a few in there now ) and forget about them.

Originally Posted by Ironwood

I would love to find a better way than CA, it can be so cantankerous at times.

I wouldn't say it is a better finish but much quicker is BLO/CA used together. Start off with a quick application of BLO and then just a drop or two of BLO and a drop of CA together, rub it vigorously along the length of the blank while turning at a reasonably medium to high speed to achieve a shiny, smooth finish, then hold the applicator (i use paper towels) around the spinning blank to burnish it.
Repeat this several times with BLO/CA until you have achieved the finish you want.
There is a Video clip on the net I will try and find it and post it.
A really nice finish can be achieved using this method and in a very short time, each application takes only about 15 seconds or so and you can repeat the process straight away and the blank is ready to assemble in a couple of minutes.

PS. with the above method, change the applicator after every application, ie using a paper towel, just tear off the end you have used and use the next bit of the paper towel.

Here is the video. [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=orcgOf4siqc"]YouTube - WoodTurning BLO and CA Pen Finish[/ame]

NiCe bit of Dead Finish, and a nice pen!!.

Pity about the trouble with the finish.

Thanks for that utube link John.
I tried something similar at the start of my CA crusade, after looking at some videos on the IAP. I didnt have much luck at the time, but I might revisit the BLO/CA method, maybe it'll work for me this time, who knows.