Thread: Difference between drill chucks

Simon, the tang on the end is only required when you use them in a pedestral drill as the tang locates in a slot to help drive the chuck. In the quill of the tailstock, most of, if not all of the lathes do not have the slot for the tang to locate in and is therefore not required. Having said that, most arbors come with the tang as standard. The first arbor you show has the drawbar end which is used if you are fitting the chuck into some sort of quill where you can insert a drawbar from the other end and screw it in the the chuck to help pull it into the taper. Most of these things are designed for working with metal where you need a lot of drive when drilling. In most cases for woodworking that drive is not so dramatic. Both types you show can be used in your tailstock. The thread may get a bit damaged in the back of the drawbar type when you wind the quill back to eject the chuck, as the handwheel thread will push on the centre of the thread in the arbor.
You could try McJing for your chuck and arbor. I personally would go for a keyless chuck if the price was close to the same, as they are so much more convenient.

Thanks Dallas,
That info is very helpful. So that's one out of the way! I will be looking for one without the drawbar end, because I do eject it from the tailstock by winding back the handwheel on the tailstock.

McJing have two 16mm drill chucks - one keyless and one with a key. Both are "B18" MT2 Arbor. Any advice on the B16/B18/JT3/JT6 arbor? Don't want to get the wrong style.

Simon.

Simon I have a JT6 and it suit my pen turning needs though I would say that it is not top quality piece of gear but works for me as a second chuck. The one I use most I bought with my lathe from Carbatec and is keyless but only takes up to 13mm drill bits. The reason I use it more is I feel it is more accurate.

Thanks Rumnut.
I'm just confused as to what the different codes mean and what they refer to.
I'm not sure if it refers to the type of material used? length or shape? design? etc
Simon

​I think it just the makers model numbers but cant be sure.

Originally Posted by bassmansimon

McJing have two 16mm drill chucks - one keyless and one with a key. Both are "B18" MT2 Arbor. Any advice on the B16/B18/JT3/JT6 arbor? Don't want to get the wrong style.

Simon.

The B16/B18/JT3/JT6 arbor refers to the taper of the arbor that fits in the back of the chuck, as the arbor is supplied with each of those chucks it really doesn't matter as obviously it fits that chuck.

The tang can get in the way on some woodlathe tail stocks as some of the woodlathes have shorter tail stocks, but if your current 13mm/MT2 chuck/arbor has a tang then it should be OK.

Conversely, the arbor without the tang could be too short to eject properly, I have one arbor like that and I had to make a short extension piece so that it would eject on my metal lathe.

Originally Posted by Big Shed

The B16/B18/JT3/JT6 arbor refers to the taper of the arbor that fits in the back of the chuck, as the arbor is supplied with each of those chucks it really doesn't matter as obviously it fits that chuck. .

Some folks may wish to standardize on a B16/B18/JT3/JT6 fitting so they can swap different chucks with different MT arbors. However, given the prices, and continually swapping arbors and chucks may lead to problems, it's best to buy chucks and arbors as a pair and leave them attached.

...........and I can't remember ever changing an arbor on a drill chuck

BTW the Bxx arbors are metric arbors, the JTx arbors are Jacobs Taper arbors, confused yet?

Thanks everyone. Sounds like a resounding "doesn't matter - just go get one and get back on the lathe"

Will try to pick up the keyless one from Mcjing on the weekend.
Simon

Chucks.JPG Arbor.JPG
These are all you need to look at. You have a choice of keyed or keyless in 13 or 16mm. They all have an MT2 arbor to go in the tailstock.
As said earlier, there is no need to worry about the taper in the back of the chuck as it already has the arbor fitted.
JT6 and B16 are similar tapers. JT are imperial and B are metric as said by Big Shed. The second picture is what an arbor looks like when not fitted to the chuck.

One thing to keep in mind is that all drills can be turned down on the shank end to fit your 13 mm chuck, even high speed drills as they are heat treated to harden only the cutting edges and flutes . the shanks are softer check what happens when a drill spins in the drill chuck usually get grooves and lumps that stop the drill going back in its holder Always nice to buy new tools though hehe, cheers ~ John

Yes, agree John, all my >13mm drills have turned down shanks (as bought).

Only use my 5/8" chuck on the mill.

Simon,

Many years ago in fact in the 80,s I bought a pillar drill made in Taiwan, i looked for the drill with the longest throw ie length of hole I could make without resetting the depth by moving the table up. I was dissapointed in two things the chuck occassionally dropped out while in use both scary and dangerous. The other problem was there was a wobble (technical term) in the chuck itself. So first I removed the quill bearings replaced them with quality bearings. Then Replaced the motor with a 1 hp one made in Australia. Next contacted the importer of the drill complained aqbout the quality of the chuck he the owner said to me early on when he brought the gear into Australia he said to the manufacturer in China how much with or without the chuck, owner said same price so guess what he never improved the fitted chuck on purchase. However he sold me a replacement larger chuck opening and I asked for a tang with a 3/8 inch threaded end. Luckily the drill had a hollow quill and I made a locking bar from all thread 3/8 inch reamed and cleaned the seat for the tang to fit better. Tip he gave me never bearing press the tang in use waste wood and tap the tang into the chuck body carefully. Now doing the sums I have used that drill press with great success for 30 odd yrs still running sweet and true, eliminated three common problems.

In my penmaking I dedicate the lathe to pens and if the collet chuck mandrel holder has as they used to a threaded end I always use a threaded rod draw bar to hold it in the head stock before using my own mandrel saver design I used to lock in the head stock the same way and if possible the converted live centre in the tail stock in the belief that any possible problem was being eliminated. When purchasing a drill chuck there are umpteen quality grades you can buy normally I look for the threaded end tang a conventional morse taper tang not too long and I buy the tang with the two sided flat for my Metal Lathe. Fear not if your drill chuck tang is used normally and proves the tang is too long it cuts of easilly soft steel that end. When I said grades of chucks it often refers to the centrality or wobble the less wobble the higher the price.

The Taig lathe chucks vary in price according to how accurate you want to drill. I agree with Big Shed apart from once with the pillar drill I have never fitted a new tang on any chuck. My intention was to say simply horses for courses never settle for the lowest quality if possible but the highest is dynamite pricing. Look for the manufacturers specs to match the tang with the taper away from lathes there are a number of standards.

My comments food for thought time spent now can give you a long working life so cost amortises over time to minimise with some quality approach. I refer to bearing presses used to assemble pens and other items first cost last cost for me there or go buy twice or many times rubbish.

Have success,

Kind regards Peter.

Thanks everyone for the advice and help. I bought a 16mm keyless drill chuck this morning. $65 from Mcjing.